All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: MC4 Connectors - I think they are badwell... success. I replaced my MC4's. I cut them off and routed things directly to a junction box on the roof. Problem solved. I have all 21-22 volts now. Perhaps I could have looked for authentic MC4 connectors and replaced my old ones w new ones. I already had a junction box on the roof since my 5th wheel came pre-wired already to the roof.Re: MC4 Connectors - I think they are badSo mine would be an open circuit then. not a short circuit. So, even the MC4 directly from Renogy have the red rings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q5W30FYRe: MC4 Connectors - I think they are badwow. no, they have the red ring. Interesting!! Sounds like counter-fits. I don't recall where I got them. I wonder if I have a lose fit inside. I have done a fair amount of tugging on these, trying to move them around and get them to where I could work on them.Re: MC4 Connectors - I think they are badI have a morningstar TriStar-PWM-45.MC4 Connectors - I think they are badSo, I had another post going months ago, but it was about finding the issue. I am pretty sure now my issue is the MC4 connectors... To review from before, I was having issues with no voltage registering on my charge controller. I am almost postive its a short of some sort between my junction box on the roof to the panels, which are connected with MC4 connectors. I get full voltage from both of my 100 W renogy panels if I take off the Y-connectors and measure at the pigtails of each panel. My only hesitation, at times, if I put the connections all back, then sometimes i get full voltage all the way into the charge controller. So, i think its fine, but its not. then I go on a trip, it works for 1-2 days, then fails again. I get on the roof, unhook the mc4 connectors, measure, and it works now, then i put them all back together, and it works again. So.... My only conclusion is that me moving around the wires, disconnecting, reconnecting, moves them around enough to fix (temporarily) the bad connection. I am guessing its the MC4 connectors, or the connection of the pigtail into the panels. I would really prefer to NOT take off the panels, as they are fastened with those Z brackets (yes I know that as a mistake). So, my next quest is to remove the MC4 connectors. However, now the pigtails will not reach the junction box. So, I have 2 choices, create a new junction box, or somehow combine the wires on the roof outside of a junction box. I assume that is a bad idea and not recommended. Any thoughts? Or should I rip up the panels, and get to where they connect into the panels and attempt to wire from that point to my existing junction box. I don't even know if that is possible with these renogy panels. I can't see under it now, to tell. Thoughts??? Would a butt splice work in the elements? How do I do join the 3 wires outside a junction box and in the weather? Or is that a bad idea?Re: Troubleshooting failed solar - Water in your junction box CA Traveler wrote: Wipe it off? How pray tell can you wipe it off of a MC4 connector for example? One person on a review of the product said cotton swab w simple green. Will see. LOL. I suspect you can't get most of it off.Re: Troubleshooting failed solar - Water in your junction box WA4HTZ wrote: Mex, did CAIG change the formula for DeOxit 100? When I originally found this stuff years ago, the D5 could be left on the connector but the package said to wash the D100 off after it was clean. I noticed the description you listed said it was also a lubricant and my latest 2 ml vial of D100 now has the "L" in the part number. It says to apply, wipe off, and reapply - nothing about a final wash. If so, this would be great because sometimes the D5 just isn't powerful enough. Thanks. Ken The reviews or questions I read on amazon, someone commented the same... wipe it off after usage, especially from plastic.Re: Troubleshooting failed solar - Water in your junction box MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Caig Chemicals CAIG DeOxIT D100 Power Booster Metal Electric Connection Cleaner, Enhancer, and Lubricant Connector conductors are not plug n play. Not using this stuff and dielectric grease is a 100% sure bet for failure. OK, I read the reviews of that on a few sites. Wow. I will try it. My connectors are just 3 years old, but they are out in the elements all year. I wonder if I should wrap the mc4 w electrical tap as well for a bit of extra protection. I noticed on the mc4 there is also a little rubber gasket. I suspect I should grease that to keep it in good shape. I do want to replace these, and if they are indeed the culprits, I will. I just heard that you void the warranty by doing so. Honestly, though, because I used those Z brackets, I will have to drill into the aluminum framing anyway to take them off. I read from someone that doing so also voids the warranty, so maybe it doesn't matter. I really appreciate everyone's feedback.Re: Troubleshooting failed solar - Water in your junction box CA Traveler wrote: Cut the Z bracket as close to the panel as possible. Reconnect the panel with angle aluminum and a bolt through the roof part of the Z bracket. OK apparently your panels don't have significant length pigtails so you can't get to the connectors or perhaps a different wire routing. But I suspect that with the panels removed you'll find the problem. BTW We should shoot anyone selling Z brackets or at least not buy anything from them. Believe me, I will never buy one again! I bought a kit online from amazon. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM Then I ended up selling the controller and buying a tristar.Re: Troubleshooting failed solar - Water in your junction box TechWriter wrote: What kind of junction box were you using? It was a 4x4 pvc junction box http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-Case-of-5-E989NNJ-CAR/202206114
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