oilslick
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Re: Anyone towing with a deleted Cummins?
NC Hauler wrote: oilslick wrote: Is it worth it? lets see you just spent $85k on that new truck and it throws codes and won't idle in the winter constantly going into limp mode plus the remote starter doesn't work if there is a CEL. Sure the dealer will take care of you, but you are an 8 hour one way drive away. Even the undeleteable 2013/14's with DEF can't operate in extreme cold and it's $600 for a DPF cleaning not covered under warranty. If you have a 2012 and down it's worth it. $85K:E..Not hardly....Have been down to a VERY blustery -8 below zero and no issues with the DEF, truck not being able to idle or going into limp mode..but it's a 13'.....Haven't had a CEL yet and have 19,500miles on my truck with zero issues. I hadn't planned on doing any deletes on my 13', got more than enough HP and TQ and again, no problems with DEF in very cold weather, no CEL's, no issues:) My kid paid almost $85 for his 2013 without the goose hitch or any racks, communication and safety equipment but that's North of your border, daytime running lights cost a lot..:R It's a good job you have no plans to delete your 2013 because you can't, you are stuck with it at the moment. While the DEF does help it still clogs the DPF and it need to be cleaned every year at a cost of $600 by the dealer but then again -8 is not cold that's spring and fall so you may be ok. Most people that delete are not looking for more power they just want the truck to run properly without throwing a CEL every month.388Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone towing with a deleted Cummins?
Is it worth it? lets see you just spent $85k on that new truck and it throws codes and won't idle in the winter constantly going into limp mode plus the remote starter doesn't work if there is a CEL. Sure the dealer will take care of you, but you are an 8 hour one way drive away. Even the undeleteable 2013/14's with DEF can't operate in extreme cold and it's $600 for a DPF cleaning not covered under warranty. If you have a 2012 and down it's worth it.387Views0likes0CommentsRe: Do Ice Cubes in the Black Tank Really Work?
Yes and No, I think this practice started on modern aircraft with the vacuum toilets. The "Black" tanks have 2 sensors that signal when the tank is full at that point they no longer flush to avoid over filling, this usually means the aircraft is grounded. and it's a big job to get access to the sensors. Someone discovered that by dumping a bag of ice cubes into the very most forward toilet on that tank then tricking the lav system to flush once the ice cubes travel down the pipe at very high speed entering the empty tank and shattering into many pieces knocking the waste from the sensors. Works almost every time on the "500 mph S**t sucker" toilet system, not so much with the static toilets on older aircraft or an RV.387Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50amp on RV, how to plug in at home?
While I've seen lots of 50 amp parks there is always a 30amp plug, if you plug something rated at 30amps into a circuit protected by a 50amp breaker it's like plugging a 15 amp hair dryer into a 30 amp protected circuit, all's well until you need the CB to trip.429Views0likes0CommentsRe: RAM 2500 Hitch
Cummins12V98 wrote: oilslick wrote: I have owned trucks for over 40 years and always had long boxes until my current 2011. Lets compare long box to short.. both can carry an extension ladder on a rack, 4X8 sheets, 2x4x8, x10 and x12 dimensional lumber, ok the long box can carry 16ft at a push. neither can carry 20ft rebar or flat steel and neither can carry 24 ft steel tubing. So just how many 16 ft dimensional lumber do most of us carry and if you are already carrying the longer steel you have a trailer for that. The short box is so much easier to get around in especially if it's a crew cab. Hey the stupid little "Smart Car" is easier to get around in also but where do you draw the line? The "stupid little smart car" can't do a single one of the items I suggested so it's a non factor.355Views0likes0CommentsRe: RAM 2500 Hitch
garysol wrote: Water-Bug wrote: In reality, there are very few instances when two extra feet of length inside the tailgate really makes any difference. A more compelling question may be "If you are going to but a PU truck, why would you ever buy a 1/2 ton?" I always wonder why anyone would buy a 3/4 ton over a 1 ton. Price difference is minimal, dimensions are the same and the ride quality on the new 1 ton SRW's are on par with a 1/2 ton of just a few years ago. Why buy a 3/4 ton over a 1 ton? well if you are commercial and the weigh scales say "all commercial trucks over 4500kg (9800lbs) report then lights are flashing" the 1 ton HAS to report even if empty as it goes on GVWR where the 3/4 ton drives by.355Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50amp on RV, how to plug in at home?
Bumpyroad wrote: for a every-now and then kind of thing, I wouldn't go the extra cost of a 50 amp hookup. just do a 30 amp supplying a 50 amp outlet. bumpy Agreed 30 amp is plenty for most usage at home and way cheaper to install the circuit.402Views0likes0CommentsRe: Pouring of rv pad
If you plan to do this yourself rent the power trowel, have it sitting there just in case you need it, it might save the whole pour if it starts to set up too quickly. Try to pick a day that will be overcast if you can. Be set up to cover it from the sun or rain.426Views0likes0Comments
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