L_MMusic
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Re: Can I JUST replace the tank?
Thanks for those insights. I saw the angled cut on the recommended video. These don't even look like that! These look like someone tried and returned this product -- probably for this reason. BTW -- For all y'all who recommended spending the extra $$$ to get the complete unit -- I'm still enjoying the learning process. I'm most frustrated with not having the correct tools at hand. And hubby would like some hot water to take a shower. I'll send him to the bathhouse if he says another word about it! LOL And, yeah, this is a time-consuming job. You definitely wouldn't want to hire someone to do the initial work of unhooking it, whether you just replace the tank or the whole thing. Time-consuming, therefore costly. So now that I've seen all the innards, I'm over this project and just want it DONE!!! I suppose it would be done by now if these misshapen parts weren't hindering my progress. Sorry for whining...898Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
LOL Gotta love fellow campers! Melody came over and we had enough strength between us to unhook it all. Now, time to hook up the new tank and we discover that the holes aren't round like the original tank. One of the compression rings broke while I was trying to put it on. Will the misshapen holes be a problem? Will flex-seal work on this?906Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
Well, let me tell you this about that... I'm being fooled by a fitting. A brass fitting, to be precise. It's the disconnect from the propane line, and it ain't budging!!! I sprayed on Liquid Wrench twice, and banged out a nice Conga for the neighbors, still to no avail. I'm going to plug it up again for the night and see what tomorrow may bring.901Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
mrekim wrote: I just replaced a tank. Some helpful hints: 1) Get a grinder or dremel to cut the old rings off. Tin snips don't work well... 2) Make notes of all the wiring connections - photos too. 3) You can make a tool for putting the new rings on from a piece of PVC. Get one that's a little too small and then use a heat gun to make it flexible and form it over the tube. 4) Use a drift to snug the rings down once you get them most of the way with the PVC. If you get the PVC stuck you can probably use channel locks to pry it off or heat it back up. THank you for these tips! Might you have photos to share, either here or on Facebook?892Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
Hi y'all. Thanks for checking and weighing in some more. I'll tell ya this about all that ^^ I'd love to just get the whole new water heater. In a former life, when $600 felt more like $250, I'd go for it. But this season of my life includes moments of learning rather than spending; in part because I do have the balance of time available to stretch my brain and learn about the inner workings of my house on wheels. Even though it is leaking, it still works! It still heats the water on propane and/or electric power. We've used it a few times to heat up enough water to wash the dishes and take two showers while we decided what to do about it. The rest of the parts look wonderful. We've always been in nice climate. NO rust. After we change out the water heater tank, I'm going to see how that Flex Seal would have worked on the old one. Have any of you used it yet?893Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
wa8yxm wrote: First: Can I just replace the Tank: YES Can someone point me in the right directrion: AMAZON The new tank comes with a 1500 watt element, and all the devices you need to attach save tools. First Turn off, then EMPTY TANK, Disconnect plumbing and 120 volt wire (tape off) (NOTE you may be better off disconnecting wire after pulling the assembley Once you have it on the "Bench" (AKA picnic table) remove everythign from the OUTSIDE that extends in (TPR Valve and any screws that are in the tank or the path the hot air flows when on Propane. NOTE there is a hidden screw under hte exhaust baffles. Cut the two rings and remove the tank, To re-assemble you will need to heat the new rings (included) with a torch and hammer on.. Not an easy task. Beyond that refer to your manual. One "EDIT" I performed was to swap the 120 volt element for a 1500 watt 240 volt element from Lowe's (or Home Depot or Joe's hardware or _____) Water heater now pulls less than 400 watts (About 375) Takes longer to get hot but.. Well it still gets hot When re-assembling make sure T-Stats touch tank. Thanks for the details! Much appreciated. I've heard it's a half-hour job. Does that sound right to you?341Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
Lantley wrote: L&MMusic wrote: Thanks for your input. I called Atwood before I saw some of your replies and she gave me the correct part number Atwood 91060 and suggested I look on the Internet for pricing options. You were right there, too. Prices varied quite a bit! We went with BoatnRV Supplies out of Ohio for $204 plus shipping ground UPS for $21. I can only see replacing the tank being worthwhile if your labor time has zero value or you simply don't have the funds to buy the complete package. Or your possibly selling the RV. Otherwise a new tank with 10 year old parts is a liability. My labor time is worth what I'm not paying an RV tech to do $$. :D My labor time (with the supervision of an RV tech with a blow torch) is still worth it to me get the job done faster and learn along the way.This RV is our full-time home and we have no plans to sell it. I don't expect anyone else would give us enough for it to qualify for a new one, so no. And we're traveling musicians. You can probably guess the answer to the funds question. While we love what we do for our living, it pays to be frugal when we can.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
Thanks for your input. I called Atwood before I saw some of your replies and she gave me the correct part number Atwood 91060 and suggested I look on the Internet for pricing options. You were right there, too. Prices varied quite a bit! We went with BoatnRV Supplies out of Ohio for $204 plus shipping ground UPS for $21.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: 5TH Wheel Landing Gear Problem --- Need Help
We have just now cut a hole through the bedroom floor to access ours. Otherwise, you need to have access from the ground (but the front of the RV is now in the lowest position position posible, limiting outside access). We've had trouble with the motorized side (driver's side), but this is the first time we've had to deal with the passenger side. The rod coming from the passenger side into the squared piece that rotates had been sheared off. The bolt is still in place! So...do we have anyone who knows the replacement part number for what I'm talking about? Or can we fish out the other end of the rod (still held in place by the bolt, and weld it together? Will it be strong enough? Thanks for your input!547Views0likes0Comments
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