All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Trying to understand payloadI just finished watching this You Tube video where they guy has the same WE that I have in storage. I recognize it now. He was showing how to do it. I'll read more but it seems easier to understand now. If I have this right a weight distributor should raise up the hitch and back end of the truck just enough to redistribute some of the weight to the front and some to the back. If properly done breaking and control should be greatly improved over not doing it at all. I am feeling so much better now. What next should I be considering?Re: Trying to understand payloadOk. So I raaan over to learn a bit about weight distributors. Sure would be helpful to have a diagram. So far the only thing I think I understand is that we want the weight on the front axle to be nearly the same as on the rear axle of the tow vehicle and about the same on the trailer axle. 1/3, 1/3, 1/3. Right? I just don't understand the gadget. I need a picture. Ah ha! I think I had one of those on this trailer. I didn't sell it with the truck. I think it detached and is in the storage. Could I used the same one on a Tundra that I used on the Ram?Re: Trying to understand payloadOk. So I raaan over to learn a bit about weight distributors. Sure would be helpful to have a diagram. So far the only thing I think I understand is that we want the weight on the front axle to be nearly the same as on the rear axle of the tow vehicle and about the same on the trailer axle. 1/3, 1/3, 1/3. Right? I just don't understand the gadget. I need a picture.Re: Trying to understand payload Francesca Knowles wrote: GalWithDawgs wrote: Lets say I have loaded the truck so my payload is 1580. 1000 of that is because of the hitch and some of the trailer contents. That would mean I would have 580 pounds of me, the dogs and lipstick distributed evenly over two axles or four tires, right? So my gaw on the front axle might be 270 but my rear axle would be 1270. Right? Depends on your hitch... now it's time to go to the following really helpful RV.net link and read all about weight distribution hitch systems. The one thing you need to know going in is that these systems do NOT raise your payload capacity. But they do affect how the load is carried by the axles. Okay I will go to the link now but before I go I thought it seemed kind of strange to maybe have 1270 on the GAW on the rear and 270 on the front. Kind of like my front tires might come off the ground and I wouldn't be able to steer or brake but then I figured the engine was up there and heavier and maybe that made up the balance. I am getting a bit confused but feel I am on the edge of understanding.Re: Trying to understand payload Francesca Knowles wrote: GalWithDawgs wrote: Lets say I have loaded the truck so my payload is 1580. 1000 of that is because of the hitch and some of the trailer contents. That would mean I would have 580 pounds of me, the dogs and lipstick distributed evenly over two axles or four tires, right? So my gaw on the front axle might be 270 but my rear axle would be 1270. Right? Depends on your hitch... now it's time to go to the following really helpful RV.net link and read all about weight distribution hitch systems. The one thing you need to know going in is that these systems do NOT raise your payload capacity. But they do affect how the load is carried by the axles. Oh boy. In 2004 I bought a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 and it came with these two big metal rod type things and seems to me one end of those rods attached to the back end of the truck and the other two near the trailer hitch. Those were anti sway things, right?Re: Trying to understand payloadThanks, Lanerd but I just positively have to understand. I looked up GAW and GAWR. Gaw would be like if I put 500 pounds of rocks in the back end of the truck. My gaw would be on the rear 500 or close to it because I am assuming a tiny bit might go to the front axle. My gawr would be what I am not suppose to exceed but how do you calculate that? I looked up for the Tundra and it said 3900/3800. I am assuming that the GAWR for the front is 3900 and the GAWR for the rear is 3800. The hitch weight would come into play there wouldn't it? Or would it? Surely it would. But what else? Oh, wait! Lets say I have loaded the truck so my payload is 1580. 1000 of that is because of the hitch and some of the trailer contents. That would mean I would have 580 pounds of me, the dogs and lipstick distributed evenly over two axles or four tires, right, because well, we are pretty much sitting in the middle of the truck give or take a bit? So my gaw on the front axle might be 270 but my rear axle would be 1270. Right?Re: Trying to understand payloadI can't tell you all how much I appreciate this. I can't afford a mistake. I can't afford to get hurt or hurt someone else either. The only way I am going to be able to do this is to understand it all. I think I get most of the payload thing now. Have to weigh it. That is all there is to it. Now if it comes in where I like isn't there still a thing about the rear and front axles and how much weight they can support or some such thing. That seems important, too. What is that?Re: Trying to understand payload westend wrote: GalWithDawgs wrote: Boy-oh-boy. That payload is some important stuff, isn't it? I wonder if the Nissan Titan has a higher payload. Well. A half-ton just isn't going to work out. All I can afford is a used truck and I just don't know if I can bring myself to buy a 3/4 ton used American made truck. Please don't jump on me. I've read the Consumer Reports and they just don't seem to have the reliability that Toyotas and Nissans do. At $16to $20K all I can get is probably someone's truck with 100,000+ miles on it. I'm uneasy with that. I have no idea about what prices are in your neck of the woods but if you'like to give me $20K for my F-250 w/ 100K mi.+. I think I could even deliver, lol. Consumer Reports can sometimes yield some good information but they aren't the be-all/end-all of information. If you're looking at the pages filled with small circles, half-filled, empty, etc, those are user submitted reports and can't be considered totally reliable. The first thing I look for in a used vehicle is the owner. How is she/he motivated to sell and what type of maintainer is he. Are there any service records? Are they complete in a file from the day of first ownership. Does he start weeping when he hands you the keys? IMO, durability is defined in the first 40,000 mi. of ownership and those detailed maintenance chores pay off during the life of the vehicle. I am currently keeping my rolling stock to 200K mi.. I'd suggest you look at some domestic 3/4 ton trucks to make your RV experience a pleasant one. Thanks. I have a friend that says just as you do and almost word for word, too. I go back and look at the domestics and then I get all scared and run squealing away for a while.Re: Trying to understand payload Huntindog wrote: GalWithDawgs wrote: jimw606 wrote: I took my truck to our local landfill( it's close) and they weighed it for free. No printout. Well, I haven't purchased the truck yet so that will be tough. However, you did give me a great idea. I bet Pioneer Gravel in Springs would weigh it when I go for a test drive. Imagine the sales person's surprise when we go there! So, lets say I get lucky and the pay load is 1580. That still seems close. I got rid of the awning on the trailer so I am a wee bit lighter there. I also got rid of that dumb heavy box in the storage. Heavy and useless it was. So if I can keep the payload at 1580 would the rest of the truck work for me? The real payload will be less than advertised. Every single option on the truck over the base model will subtract from it. Leather seats=subtract, sound system=subtract, etc. Help me understand this. The radio/cd player isn't listed as an option. It is standard. Would the presence of one really diminish payload? Or do you mean options like....well...leather would be one in this model I guess so I would expect that to change things. Carpeted floor mats are standard so I wouldn't expect those to alter payload as would perhaps the option of rubber mats. Truth in advertising comes to mind when I think "Base model pay load is 1,560 but yours is a lot less because we gave you a radio and a steering wheel." I get what you are saying partially though. It just seems to me the law would step in and regulate that. If they say it is 1,560 then it needs to be 1,560 with what they are calling standard items. Only way to know for sure is to weigh it.Re: Trying to understand payload jimw606 wrote: I took my truck to our local landfill( it's close) and they weighed it for free. No printout. Well, I haven't purchased the truck yet so that will be tough. However, you did give me a great idea. I bet Pioneer Gravel in Springs would weigh it when I go for a test drive. Imagine the sales person's surprise when we go there! So, lets say I get lucky and the pay load is 1580. That still seems close. I got rid of the awning on the trailer so I am a wee bit lighter there. I also got rid of that dumb heavy box in the storage. Heavy and useless it was. So if I can keep the payload at 1580 would the rest of the truck work for me?
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