Justin210485
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Re: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
Ok so is it possible to run the lights off of the batteries themselves which are charging when the truck is running completely bypassing the converter? That's the only way I cpuld figure that the converter is not connected but things still work.432Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
Thanks for the info guys. Both tanks are working I was just being impatient. I'm on to the next project. The electrical. I want to restore power to the pass side ac outlets. While I was checking the water lines I found another cut a.c. line. So if this line goes where I think its going the converter may not even be connected. But if that's the case how are my lights and such working? This Midas continues to be a mystery as I go. Some back story. The carb was acting up and it did not run well at all. Took forever to get it started ans then idled bad. Took it into a carb shop hete local. He said whoever owned it before me BADLY modified the carb from a 4 barrel to a 2 barrel. So $400 later I have a working engine that runs well and starts right up.431Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
You're right it says converter not inverter. So did you see any reason not to reconnect that AC that was cut at this point all it does is provide an AC outlet behind the fridge and another AC outlet near the entertainment area which is what I would like to restore. hosting pic429Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
DrewE wrote: The inverter produces 120V power from the 12V power from the batteries for powering whatever sorts of 120V devices you want to power when not connected to shore power. (Obviously there are limitations on how much power is available from an inverter.) Common examples include 120V televisions and other entertainment devices, laptops, crock pots, and maybe limited microwaving if the inverter and battery bank are sufficiently large. As to why the 120V power to the fridge was cut, your guess may be as good as mine. Possibly there was some fault in the fridge or in the outlet it plugs into (water got into the outlet maybe). So thats what I thought. But as it seems a.c. plugs and fridge a.c. only work on shore. I was looking at the inverter and it says the output is dc. Wouldnt it say a.c.? As for the fridge. I plugged it into an extension cord and then to a 120 outlet on the house. It imediatly blew the breaker. So as you said,it seems in order to keep from blowing the rv breaker they cut the ac outlet from the inverter. I dont know why they didnt just unplug it from the rear access panel.429Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
120 outlets work other then the 1 that was cut. All lights work in interior on and off shore power. This system does not use a generator. It has 2 batteries under the hood and 2 deep cycle batteries under bench in living area. What is the purpose of the inverter in this situation?429Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
Its dark now so on to another issue into the night. Our fridge doesnt seem to be working After some sleuthing I found that a main wire is going from the little breaker box this has over to the inverter. Then the wire exits the inverter to a 120 plug behind the fridge and on to another 120plug that also has no power. Here is the kicker. The exit 120 wire out of the invter has been cut. Also the fridge lever to change from gas and electric has also been removed. Before I go reattaching the wires that were cut,any clue why they would have done this?279Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
how to upload image on website If you look at this pic, you will see the brake controller on the right with the 2 spade bare ends. The black connector and then the wires. It looks like one of the original wires was cut ans spliced to a purple wire. Cant seem to see where it goes.278Views0likes0CommentsRe: New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.
DrewE wrote: That's a large crack in the tank. I would suggest seeing about replacing it, especially as it appears to be fairly accessible without taking the entire motorhome apart. That isn't always the case. A plastic fabricator may be able to patch it up, though, if you decide to go that route. If it's brittle with age, it probably would crack again. I honestly don't know how prone (if at all) ABS is to getting brittle or crumbly. The light socket looks to be in very poor condition. Even if you get it working, I suspect it would not be reliable. The upper of the two base contacts is loose from the plastic mount, for one thing, and the lower right corner looks almost as though it has been burnt (though that may just be accumulated cruft). At any rate, I think replacing these lights would be much less trouble in the long term than trying to figure out why they aren't working now and getting them usable. I must say on the whole this looks remarkably clean and solid for something that's about forty years old. So after testing the socket with my light. The taillight as before lit up but when touching the brake light contact it did not light as expected, but when the wife pumped the pedal it would come on for a split secxoned each time. I'm thinking the brake controller? If I decide to just replace the lights is that an easy job?278Views0likes0Comments
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