Briand
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Joined 20 years ago
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Koala Trailers
Man, all you oldies and regulars must get sick of so many questions. Hopefully I will be contributing soon vs just asking random purchase questions. So if I get it, Skyline, mfg of Koala sold to Evergreen who is now been rolled up into Thor or someone else, don't really know. Are there any Koala/Skyline owners out there? What is build quality like? Is there any kind of support for them any longer? If you really like a Koala, would you haggle hard on it since the manufacturer of the RV is toast? Or, would you just move on and get a different model? I am looking at a 2-6 year old camper. Don't think will will start with a new one. Just way to much risk if we do not use it for many years to come.1.6KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Work/Play setup
Yeah, there are some really neat office setups and the up and down beads in some of the new toy haulers can be converted to sit/stand desks, but those are typically done for more full timers. On large RVs, trying to keep this one <= 26' I just need to be able to work for a month or two and keep some privacy. Thus the bunk areas are easily converted. I would just rahter have my wife in her on little room and it could be the bedroom if it were murphy. Dang that airstream is nice. Crazy. I could buy it, I just don't want it enought yet.221Views0likes0CommentsWork/Play setup
So, had a slide in for a decade or so, now looking at something I can work out of. Wife needs to have privacy while I work, so thinking about converting a bunk area to work space. One thing surpises me. If there were a bedroom model, ether with doors or soft door or bathroom between, you get a lot of privacy in both living and sleeping area. If they made a bedroom with a murphy bed it would be a really nice, 2nd living area, where my wife could relax while I am working on the dinette or desk in the main area. Anyone know of such a setup?1.7KViews0likes4CommentsRe: tire pressure on tow vehicle
Just checked mine and BFG says the same for truck tires. I guess as far as thee tire manufacturers BFG and Michelin go, you should use sticker on vehicle. So I was technically wrong in where to get your number. Checking with the tire mfg is the right advice. Not sure that all my vehicles have this though. Interestingly, they tell you to weigh your RV, which very people do. I wonder what the mfg would tell you what pressure to use if you do not know your weight.517Views0likes0CommentsRe: tire pressure on tow vehicle
I am stating fact. The other advice is ambiguous, that is unless you know precisely the load in your tow and trailer and know the calculation to get ideal ride vs tow tire pressure AND the weight of your tow vehicle and trailer. All this is rather subjective, since you are not going to get the precise calculation. The soundest advice to give is the one from the manufacturer. Air up to maximum pressure. There is a reason why maximum load is achieved at maximum pressure and a reason why it is on the sidewall. Same thing for lowest pressure. Here is why I recommend highest pressure: Is it exact science? Nope. Will you get better wear if you use less than max pressure. -- Nope, its worse. Is it possible to not use max pressure? -- Yep, if you are potentially ready for less than optimal wear. -- Yep, if you are definitely ready for less than max load cap. Will a tire explode if you have lower pressure than max. -- *probably* not. If you find the ride not tolerable you compromise wear and load to air down. I tend not to do this. A vehicle manufacturer's advice is pointless unless it is tire specific. I've had load range e of a tire of same size diff mfg behave drastically different. I'll stick with the tire manufacturer's advice. Not exactly the same, but definitely related. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28249043/gotomsg/28249764.cfm#28249764517Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hot Tub in Your Campsite
The campground will obviously have to charge you for it, ban them or start charging for water per use. But either way, unless every camp site has them every night, it is likely not to make much difference in Elec or H20. Lets say that you have an old RV that uses 5 gallons per minute for the shower. lets say you have 6 people in your camper and everyone takes a 15 minute shower everyday for a week. Your total usage for a week would be 3150 gallons. Compared to 2 people that use the same showers, the usage is 1050. 1300 with a hot tub. If they start taking 60 minute showers is it the same headache as a hot tub? Are you going to ban them as well? Even if your reduce the water per hr for a shower to 2.5, the family of 6 is > 30% more than the couple with a hot tub. It's just not fair to penalize any fees or policy based on the fact that they draw more electricity or not. If they ban these due to water usages or electricity, it is under some false guise that these take more water or electricity than normal appliances, which really they do not. If you start considering hairdriers, clothes driers, toasters, ovens and all the other electric stuff that a family can use, the real cause of high electricity will be number of people not whether you have a hot tub. Trust me, I think it would be really cool, if they banned families and only let us adults enjoy camp grounds. much more quiet and relaxing. IMO, the real concern here is respect for other campers, noise, nuisances and all that. As long as everyone is playing well together I don't really care. Then again, most of the camping I do is boondocking, so there are no rules about hottubs and you'd have to burn a lot of gas to get one up to temp, unless it is wood fired or propane.396Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hot Tub in Your Campsite
12 hours is typical for any hot tub when you fill with cold water. I have a rather high end spa (10 years old now). It has always taken this long. How many times we run the drier has much more impact on the bill than whether I have the spa running or not.211Views0likes0CommentsRe: tire pressure on tow vehicle
gmw photos wrote: Briand wrote: Lots of misinformation and confusing information here. If you want to get the most miles out of your tires, most even wear and carry the heaviest load, then inflate tires to the MAXIMUM that they specify on the side wall. I have never had a tire that did not state 2 pressures. Min and max. I will respectfully disagree with most of that post. See my earlier post about the P tires on my Nissan truck. And to add to that, the tires ( 80 psi rated, load range E, BF Goodrich LT ) on our F350 diesel dually are maintained at door sticker stated pressure ( 60 rear, 75 front ). The truck is used almost exclusively for towing two different trailers loaded to 13 to 14K pounds. Original tires went 50K miles, and were wearing perfectly even, still had half their original tread. Replaced due to age and beginning to suffer weatherchecking. Point is, max sidewall pressure is often not needed nor desirable, in my opinion. Y'all's mileage, tires, experiences and opinions will likely vary. According to manufactures, the only way to acheive the maximum load capacity is to inflate to maximum pressure per side wall. This is true for all tires including P rated. Difference on P rated tires is that they should always be inflated to 36 or 42 PSI depending on XL or not. Then to calculate the reduced load capacity of the tire, you need to do a calculation or look at a table. Neither of these are great ideas. 99.9% of P rated tires are kept at their max pressure. The way to achieve the best wear and MAXIMUM load capacity of a tire to use the maximum pressure as stated on the side of the tire. Frankly there is no arguing this point. It is fact. If you reduce tire pressure, the tire will not be rated to its maximum load capacity and it will wear differently. In order to determine exactly how much you should inflate your tire based on a certain weight load is a calculation that not many people can do. It is much easier to inflate them up to max as stated on the tire sidewall or other official tire manufacturer's documentation.517Views0likes0Comments
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