Boomerweps
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Joined 7 years ago
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Re: Ok to run shore power without battery?
I added a battery disconnect and use that for winter storage but left the TT plugged into shore power so I can still use the lights and radio. Just yesterday I plugged in a portable electric heater and took a nap in there. Need the light’s because I put reflectix in all the windows, retains the heat a little better and makes it much darker in there. My batteries are LiFePO4 so no float voltage isn’t a big deal.514Views0likes0CommentsRe: How much capacity is lost if converter isn't Li-friendly?
My SIL went to a Yamaha ATV mechanics course and they were big on showing early Lithium battery fires. The tech were told to walk away if a battery fire started and just protect the surrounding area. He thought I was crazy installing LiFePO4 batteries under my TT bed. If you do a little online research, you will find that LiFePO4 batteries are safer than all other batteries. You can go online and watch Will Prose and others take a drill to them. I’ve seen two battery fires in vehicles, one actually blew up. Standard Lead Acid.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: How much capacity is lost if converter isn't Li-friendly?
Your existing converter will take care of most of the charging but take a longer time. Your solar should take care of reaching the higher voltages needed to reach 100% and equalizing the cells. That’s what I’m currently doing. I do have a lithium capable stand-alone charger that I used before permanently mounting solar panels.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
Several battery disconnects are set up with a battery 1, 2, 1+2, and off positions. If used to seperate battery banks, a pre controller panel disconnect switch should be added to use while shifting battery banks. My hillbilly engineering degree method is that I have an SAE/Zamp style side connection from the panels and another similar inside from that jack that I can easily disconnect. The interior one is handy if I want to connect the stand alone charger. Switches are great but unplugging works just as easy.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
If going to the effort of having switch to switch between battery banks, adding another between the panels and controller shouldn’t be a big deal. Every controller manual emphasizes connecting the batteries first and disconnecting them last. They imply damage may occur but not stated clearly how. IMO, there is concern about the battery not powering the control circuitry and the panel power not being limited. You could always shift banks at night ;)1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
If you have ANY shading on your panels in series, you will lose a lot of power. The gain in series is two fold from the higher voltage. One, the panel voltage reaches the activation voltage needed by the MPPT controller earlier in the day and retains it longer in the evening. The higher voltage allows more power flow through thinner wires, I.e., less line loss. Starting in parallel allows you to easily add more panels. IMO, EPEver controllers are the most cost effective. Victron is likely the best consumer grade units with a matching cost. Wattage equals volts times amps. Which unit you need comes down to that. Easier still, find likely candidate controllers, download their manuals. The ones I’ve seen all state the recommended maximum PV wattage input. For example mine states 390watts at 12vdc. So I’m planning on ending up with four 100 watt panels since PV panels rarely put out their rated output (for many reasons). I agree that you would want a 50 Amp capable unit. The EPEver tracer series 4210AN (40 amp unit) lists max PV wattage at 520 watts.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: 12v wire thickness
TurnThePage wrote: No room for 2 wires from post to post. I just replaced all my battery terminal screws with slightly longer stainless steel bolts, with a lock and regular washers. They are all M8s for thread size and diameter. This is to allow two large terminals to be stacked for paralleling my batteries and allow plenty of thread engagement. Each battery has two connections per terminal, on one end battery is the inverter, and the other, the lines to the buss bars and battery cutoff.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: 12v wire thickness
timelinex wrote: Boomerweps wrote: Read the reviews on Amazon. Most complain about the wires supplied with inverters is TOO small, mostly 4 AWG. Use at least 1/0awg or better yet, 2/0awg. If making your own, ask for the given gauge welding cables at your electrical supply store. Welding cable is very flexible with many smaller wires. Another consideration is that many, myself included, decide that a given inverter is a little small and get a higher power unit. If the wiring is extra thick for the smaller inverter, it can support the larger unit. IMO, the inverter should be directly connected to the battery bank with only a fuse or circuit breaker on the positive cable. I plan on adding a BUS bar. Should I connect the negative end directly to my shunt and positive to my batteries...Or should I go through the Bus Bars, which add distance. I would not route inverter power via the shunt or buss bars (extra connections between the battery and inverter). Make it as direct & short as possible, just protection.766Views0likes0Comments
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