Paulb1310
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Re: Auxiliary Fuel Tank for Generator
Here is the altitude and temperature information from the Onan RV Generator handbook: If you travel at high altitudes or in extreme temperatures, your generator can lose power. In such lower-density air conditions, you can’t operate as many electrical devices as you could under normal operating conditions. Power decreases 3.5% for each 1,000 feet above an altitude of 500 feet. For example, to operate at 4,500 feet (4,000 feet above rated generator altitude) multiply 3.5% x 4 (4,000 ft) = 14% power loss. Then multiply .14 x your generator’s power rating: 4,000 watts x .14 = a loss of 560 watts at that altitude. Power decreases in extreme temperatures by 1% for each 10° F (5.5° C) above 85° F (29.4°C). So, in the extreme Western high desert, a 100° day at 9000 feet the generator would only put out about 2800 watts. Of course, I DO understand this is the absolute extreme conditions that are pretty atypical.226Views0likes0CommentsRe: Auxiliary Fuel Tank for Generator
B.O. Plenty, That is actually a good idea. I plan on using a three tier approach. I own both a 2000 watt Honda and a 1000 watt Honda. I love both these dearly for a whole multitude of reasons. I was planning on only using the Onan for high altitude hot environments. As you likely already know, generator output drops dramatically with higher elevations. And even gets lower at these elevations when the temperatures are extreme. When the temperatures get hot on the Western high desert, it takes quite a bit of power to run everything. The 4000 Onan only produces 2800 watts at 9000 feet. So, on a hot, desert day, the Honda generators will struggle to run the AC. Now, the "tier" approach: For less electricity demand, I will use either the 2000 watt for medium loads or the 1000 watt for light loads. I will use a Mercury boat quick disconnect for the fuel input to the Onan. Additionally, I will equip each of the Honda generators with an externally fed fuel cap and a fuel hose from my large tank to hook onto the Mercury connector. This way, I don't have to mess with any fuel cans and I can run any of the three generators any time I want, depending on the power needed.223Views0likes0CommentsAuxiliary Fuel Tank for Generator
If this question has been answered somewhere before, please point me to the link. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to find an answer. I bought a used fiver that had a Onan 4000 watt genset that was mounted in this monstrosity of a cabinet that attached to the fiver rear hitch. Appeared to be way too much weight and besides it looked UGLY on the back. So, I cut the mount down, removed the battery and fuel tank and now I have a small, compact removable generator on the back. Of course this brings me to the question that prompted this post: I want to mount a gas tank way forward under the fifth wheel. Moeller makes a wide range of permanent mount marine tanks that are ABYC and NMMA compliant. Is there any issue with building a bracket and putting this tank under the fiver? I have confidence that my friend and I can build a bracket with a weight safety margin of at least double the weight of the tank, gasoline, and mount. This mount would be permanently attached to the side frame rails with grade 8 hardware. Also, are there any other tanks that I should consider? RDS makes a whole line of tanks but most of them are auxiliary tanks for diesel and do not allow gasoline in them (at least according to the web site.) So, what am I missing? Thanks, Paul.1.8KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Wanting to change from STs to LTs..........
Well, I finally made a decision. After a BUNCH of research and consideration, I decided on the HiSpec S5 aluminum wheels (rated 3580 pounds) and the Michelin XPS Rib LT245/75R16. And yes, I DO understand this is way overkill for this trailer. But these tires and wheels will outlast this trailer. I plan on keeping the current old tires and wheels in dry storage and putting them back on when we decide to trade. My only slight concern is the clearance from the inside of the tire to the shocks. The original clearance was 13/16". The new clearance with the XPS Ribs are 11/16". I seriously doubt this 1/8" will make much difference. There are a couple of areas where I will have to cut off a bit of trim, but this is pretty minor and will be unnoticeable. Michelin publishes a guide of tire pressures based on tire load. (This is linked somewhere else in this thread.) At the loading I will be placing on these tires, I will likely run 50-55 PSI. So, a hearty "THANK YOU!!" for all those that supplied their time and wit to this thread.326Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wanting to change from STs to LTs..........
jimnlin wrote: Excellent point for a highway trailer. Now if the OP goes off roading then that type tread will help tracking in mud/etc. Tires for trailers need at least one solid rib in the center of the tread or both edges for best tracking/handling. Well, we do plan on taking this trailer onto some backroads. That is one of the reasons we bought a smaller trailer. As a matter-of-fact, if we could have found one at 20 feet, that would be the one we purchased. We are wanting to do dry camping to get closer to nature for me and to the stars for my wife. lol Me Again wrote: I would install LT235/85R16E R250's on 6 or 6.5 zero offset wheels and deal with stocks as necessary. On trailers it is very important to have zero offset wheels centered on hub bearings. Just ask Titanium owners that got OEM axles and wheels that were not setup that way. That is an interesting and important tidbit about the offset. bpounds wrote: I suspect you're throwing a lot of money at a problem that doesn't exist. At most you could consider going up to an E rated tire in the same size, and probably only pay around $25 total extra for all four over the D rated. I couldn't find an E rated tire in a 15" size. Am I missing something or are all the 15" tires limited to 2540 pounds?361Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wanting to change from STs to LTs..........
Thanks everyone for the input!! Laknox: Interesting comment. I did some research and discovered that the next size down in either the Michelin LTX A/T 2 or Michelin XPS Rib is an LT225/75R16. However, there is no LT235/75R16. There is a LT235/85R16 but this tire is too tall. Gitane59: The XPS Ribs look like a really great tire. And the reviews on Tirerack are stellar. They do appear to require a narrower wheel which would certainly help in the clearance issues. I was just trying to avoid that $300.00 cost per tire. But then, I guess some sacrifices have to be made, huh? lol Another question: It appears that if I were to put on the XPS Ribs that there is a range of tire pressures that I could actually run. Is it recommended to run a lower tire pressure since I will be loading the tire less than 80% of its capacity? Or does less tire pressure totally defeat the purpose of going with a larger tire?361Views0likes0CommentsWanting to change from STs to LTs..........
We are the proud new owners of a 2007 K-Z Sportsman 5th wheel. The unit is in EXCELLENT shape for its age. This is our first (but likely won't be our last). I have read numerous posts on the arguments of STs versus LTs. My conclusion is the I am going to replace the current tires/wheels with larger, more robust ones. Here is what I currently have: Tire: Load Max Radial Tire Size: ST225/75R15 Overall diameter: 28.3" Rim width range: 6-7" Date Code: 614 0906 (waaaaay old!) Wheels: Six bolt on 5.5" centers Load rating for each tire: 2540 pounds GVWR for trailer: 10,000 pounds Here is what I want: Tire: Michelin LTX A/T 2 Tire Size: LT245/75R16 Rim width range: 6.5-8" Overall diameter: 30.5" Wheel Choice #1: HiSpec Series 04 Wheel Size: 16x7 Wheel load rating: 3200 Offset: +5mm Wheel Choice #2: HiSpec Series 05 Wheel Size: 16x6.5 Wheel load rating: 3580 pounds Offset: 0mm So, what have I considered so far? 1. Separation between current tires is 5.0". By using this size tire the separation would be 2.8". This would appear to be sufficient. 2. Currently there is 6" of suspension travel between the top of the tire and the floor of the 5th wheel. This would be reduced to 4.9". This, too, seems sufficient. 3. The passenger side shocks currently sit 3/4" away from the tire. This might be dicey with a bigger tire and wheel. If the tire is too close the options are to (a) put a spacer between the wheel and the hub with longer lug nuts or (b) move the shock to the other side of the axle (likely NOT a good option.) 4. The passenger side front tire is close to the fender. I could (a) trim off part of the fender or (b) install a brace underneath to push the fender our a few tenths of an inch or (c) a combination of (a) and (b). 5. The top of the tire to the bottom of the fender is 3.5". I don't know just how much more the bigger tires would protrude. Of course, the current tires don't have a problem with hitting the inside edge of the fender. I'm not sure if the bigger tires would have an issue or not. So, what have I missed? Thanks for your help!! Paul.15KViews0likes78Comments
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