WellShooter2
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Re: 5th wheels vs motor homes
I seriously considered moving from a 5 er to a MH. But the more I studied it the more I disliked the idea. The MH certainly has the advantage of having the bathroom and refer available while driving but it is a much more complicated piece of equipment. In fact I can see no difference between a MH and a spaceship, other than the MH does not have to hold air pressure. A MH is just too complicated when it comes to having breakdowns and making repairs. If I could afford a new one every 2 years I might be able to avoid some of the breakdowns and repairs. The 5er is easier and cheaper to repair. The tow vehicle has lots of other uses.287Views0likes0CommentsRe: Best hitch (non-slider)
Cummins12V98 wrote: NJRVer The B&W components are of very high quality. Even if you have some surface rust it will never become a problem. Buy the best and flush the rest! X2 Rust on the parts under the bed? Dust on top of the refrigerator? Ohh My !!!303Views0likes0CommentsRe: Costco Michelin Ribs update
chevor wrote: I believe the best tires come with no milage warranty. Warrantys are sales gimmicks to move junk. You will most likly replace the tire do to age. I agree, any manufacturer that touts their warranty over their product is likely in the junk business.200Views0likes0CommentsRe: Information Discussion for Gate Guards
daverich wrote: Question about non-potable water. I have seen gate guard ads that say so many gallons of non-potable water. I know what non-potable water is. I am guessing you use it for the toilet and showers. Now you have it in your water system. I guess when you a finished you can sanitize with bleach. But I don't like the idea of having it in the pipe in the first place. What am I missing here? Thanks. Non-potable means don't cook with it or drink it. It may not taste good and hasn't been chlorinated. i.e. it is not certified by any agency. Doesn't mean it's bad water or it will hurt your rig or even make you sick. If you have ever lived in the country and used "well water" you have used non-potable water. I use "drinking" water purchased at Wal-Mart for coffee. Showers shave and toilet on non-potable.359Views0likes0CommentsRe: E, LT or P Rated Tires for my 1/2 Ton?
BenK wrote: popupcamping wrote: BenK wrote: Mishmash of info.... Here is clarification There are classes of tires P, class are for passenger car and need to be de-reared a min of 9 % when used on trucks. The OEM has already done on half ton...not fake half tons...regulate half tons Next higher class is LT and no de-rating needed Their weight ratings are numeric for P class. For LT, letter designators. C represents 6 ply, D = 8ply, E = 10 ply P class has a very small edge for better ride quality over the same metric sized LT Noise is more a function of tread type. M/S or AT treads noiser Via SmartPhone...excuse the fat finger typos! LTs are noisier and harsher riding. simple and if you are not loading over your p metrics you don't need them. Amazing, but at least you are consistent with your incorrect or better, misplaced advice OP, if you need/wise mire in formation, post back with your questions Via SmartPhone...excusethefat finger typos! I agree with BenK, at least on the loading issue. "P" tires are fine on a half ton pickup. "LT's are noisier and harsher riding. simple" I have run through many sets of tires on many different PUs in my life and agree 100% with that statement. The higher the load range the harsher they are going to be.453Views0likes0CommentsRe: E, LT or P Rated Tires for my 1/2 Ton?
Francesca Knowles wrote: The "E" tire IS an "LT"- E is the weight rating. "P" is of course for "passenger car", and most folks don't run them on light trucks. I would, and have, run P tires on half ton trucks. A 'P' tire provides a significantly better ride and handling. Just don't go off pavement much and don't pull or haul anything.124Views0likes0Comments
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