All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: dual AC on 30 amps - I think I made it workIt’s been running for about 3 hours now. Breaker has not tripped, and the plug is cool to the touch. According to the documentation for my ac’s The max cooling amps is 14.4.dual AC on 30 amps - I think I made it workHere is what I did. Middle of day once temperatures start heating up, I switched my water heater and refrigerator over to propane. I unplugged cofee pot, curling iron, and anything else drawing electricity. I even cut off the breaker to the microwave so the clock wasn't drawing power. I also shut off the breaker that charges my batteries. I then turned on one of the AC's and let it run for about a minute. Then I turned on the other one. I have the fan set to "ON" and the thermostat for each unit all the way down, so the two units will not end up cycling at the same time. I realize this is extreme, but so far it is working. Am I harming anything by doing this? Once the sun goes down, I will turn off one of the AC's and resume everything else as normal.Re: Expecting too much from AC? 2oldman wrote: DutchmenSport wrote: You made your mistake by not leaving the air conditioner run all day while you were gone. I thought he did. He said it could not keep up. Yes, I did leave my AC running all day.Expecting too much from AC?We took our 5th wheel out last weekend (Jayco 29.5 BHDS) and the campsite only had 30 amp hookups available, so we could only run 1 AC unit. Unfortunately, that 1 unit could not keep up. On Saturday morning when we left the RV it was 68 degrees inside. We were gone the entire afternoon, so the door of the RV was not opened until we got back around 5:00 that afternoon. The temperature inside the RV at 5:00 ws 88 degrees. The outside temperature that day was 102 degrees, and there was no shade whatsoever where we were parked at. It was probably 10:00 that evening before the temperature inside the RV dropped back down to a comfortable level. My unit is still under warranty, so I can take it in and have it looked at, but before I do, I wanted to get everyone's opinion on whether or not I am expecting too much out of a single 15K unit.Re: About to replace my battery enblethen wrote: Adding the existing load plus the installation of an inverter of 1000 watts will max out the #2 wire. yes, between the circuit breaker and the 12 volt DC distribution panel and converter the OP can keep the existing. But adding the length and future connections, the jumpers and main cable should be larger. The additional length will be less than 3 ft additional. What I plan on doing taking the existing wire off the battery and hooking it to a cutoff. Then getting another length of wire (2 - 3 ft, but as short as possible ) and running this from the cutoff to the positive of the new battery. So, if I go with something larger like 0 or 2/0 for this new piece, are you saying that will be too much, and I should replace the entire cable all the way back to my converter/charger? I do plan on using 2/0 to connect the DC side of my inverter.Re: About to replace my battery enblethen wrote: Yes, go with the 2/0. Make sure you find some fine stranded wire like from a marine store. Stay away from building wire! Here are the specs of the wire I am considering. I can get just about any length I need with the connectors already on it. Specifications: Conductor Size: 2/0 AWG Stranding: 1330 strands of copper (30 AWG ea strand, rope lay Class K) Outside Diameter of stranding: 0.450 inches (nominal) Outside Diameter of finished cable: 0.660 inches (nominal) Amps: Rated to handle 330 amps continuous outside of engine space (280 amps continuous inside engine space) Weight: 0.578 lbs per footRe: About to replace my batteryI am planning on adding an inverter, but nothing larger than 1000 watts. Since I am going to be adding some additional lenght to my cabling, I figure 2/0 will be fine. (probably overkill, but better safe than sorry)Re: About to replace my batteryThanks everyone for all of the advice. Another question I forgot to ask... Since I am going to be adding a cutoff switch and I will need to relocate my battery bank by about 18 inches, so I have room for 4 batteries, I will need to buy some extra wire. I am going to buy the wire with the connectors already there, but I am not sure what size I need to get. I am not good at estimating what size I currently have either. Would 2 gage wire work? Or do I need something bigger like 1/0 or 2/0?Re: About to replace my battery beemerphile1 wrote: Your profile nor your signature tells what RV you have. For tech advice it would be helpful. If you have a trailer, a battery disconnect should be in the positive cable and the breakaway should be wired directly to the battery prior to the switch. If a MH, it doesn't matter positive or negative. I have a 2017 Jayco 29.5 BHDS 5th wheel. Can you tell me the difference between a disconnect and a breakaway?Re: About to replace my battery azrving wrote: Your existing converter is only going to put out the same amps as it was before. If you are not adding additional loads and just wanting to increase your run time you will be fine as is. If you want to upgrade your converter and increase your charging efficiency then a converter that goes to more than 13.6 volts and heavier wire will be needed. Edit. The switch that I link to up above will also let you run your batteries in two Banks. The current charger/converter I have is a Progressive Dynamics 4560 rated at 60 amps. It also shows to be a 4 stage charger with a boost mode that puts out 14.4 volts. So I am guessing I should be fine with that. Correct?
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