NWLady
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Re: Dometic refrig but no thermister just screw attached
Thank you all for your help and ideas. I do have an adjustment on the front of the fridge but it doesn't seem to make any difference. So looks like mine isn't supposed to have any adjustment except knob on front. Thank you very much for this info... clears up one question. Maybe I am expecting too much. On propane, outside temp high on low to mid 70's, it will maintain 43 degrees if packed with already cold food. Any higher outside temps it can easily climb to 47 degrees. It runs a little better on AC. Freezes good on AC or propane. I have an exhaust fan but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I am doing to contact dinosaur electronics to see it they can help. I keep reading good things about this company.289Views0likes0CommentsDometic refrig but no thermister just screw attached
I have dometic refrig in a 1999 coachman van. The freezer compartment is freezing but the refrig compartment on "max" isn't working or working so poorly that the temp inside is mid 50's. Cools down at night to mid 40's but as soon as the outside temp is in high 70s to 80s, temp in refrig rises. Looked on line and saw a lot of pic and info on thermistors (white sliding plastic thing) on fins of refrig. BUT... mine doesn't have one of those. It just has a wire that is screwed to the metal backing that the fins are attached to. the screw and wire do not seem to be adjustable. It has worked ok in the past...but not great but then I don't expect much from a little refrig like this. I haven't been able to find anything like this on the internet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you1.5KViews0likes7CommentsRe: need help with install of inverter in Class B
Thank you everybody for your help. Gives me more things to consider. I went from 2 to 4 batteries because I did read that two was minimum for that type of load even for short periods. I was planning on replacing the existing 6 wire with 4 but maybe I need to consider doing #2. I was leaning towards the PD 4645 or 4655 because it is a staged charger but maybe I need to contact lifeline or get more info on lifeline AGM battery charging needs. ....or look at the universal batteries. I sure do appreciate everyone sharing their ideas and experiences.351Views0likes0CommentsRe: need help with install of inverter in Class B
BFL - thanks for the great info and idea.... and the actual info of what I need to find....and snip... and insert. My new batteries will be AGM. Does the powermax, you speak of, do a good job for AGMs? I will look into your ideas. Thank you very much. mary351Views0likes0CommentsRe: need help with install of inverter in Class B
Thank you everyone. Good ideas and info. like Mena661, I don't want to have to tear things apart to the walls. I am a nurse not an electrical engineer so putting in switch and the like is doable for me. My generator works great but I really dislike having to start it up any time I want to use the micro so trying to set things up so I can run the micro a little off the batteries. Being able to rewarm my coffee in the micro is such a sweet luxury. Thanks again.351Views0likes0Commentsneed help with install of inverter in Class B
Currently have one flooded trojan house battery in my 1999 Coachman Class B that also has a onan 2800 genny. Almost impossible for me to get to the existing battery for maintance and I want more battery power. I know I could use my generator for 120v power but HATE the noise but don't want to take genny out as is useful sometimes. The plan is to do a stepped upgrade. 1st stage: put in four AGM 6v lifeline batteries, a trimetric 2025 rv monitor with 500 amp shunt and upgrading my magnetek 7345 controller with maybe powermax boondocker. (which controller isn't 100% decided.) I know I don't know everything about this 1st step but I think that there isn't too much modification necessary. 2nd stage: when budget can afford, I want to incorporate a 2000 - 3000 pure sine inverter. I know there are different ways to accomplish this but at present I am favoring the installing a 30 amp receptacle from the inverter on the outside of the van and plugging the shore power plug into this when I want to run 120v off batteries. I know I have to not have the converter charging the batteries when the inverter is running. ...which I think would be happening if the shore power is plugged into the inverter 30 amp receptacle. Question: would it work to just use the "disconnect" switch that currently exists when I use the inverter? I am sorry if this is explained somewhere. I have spent a lot of time looking at the info here and other places. It probably has been answered but I either missed it or didn't clearly understand what was being said. Thank you very much for any help, Mary my email is: dancermm@comcast.net1.9KViews0likes11Comments
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