All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Gas or electric water heaterWhy would you even consider using propane when you have electric available? I get this question all the time from people. "Why is there 2 switches for my water heater"? That tells me many folks don't understand the design of a 6 Gallon DSI-Quick Recovery Water Heater. I tell them all to only use propane if no electric is available. The Quick Recovery comes from having BOTH switches ON. As Bisquit said, propane heats 2x faster than electric. When you have 2 people taking showers back to back, this is when you turn BOTH switches ON. I do it 5 minutes before taking a shower and there's still hot water for the 2nd person. Hence Quick Recovery.Re: Jayco 24 RKS PriceMike...Use this and select your options...The Dealer MSRP is going to reflect Destination Charges...They have free reign to inflate that MSRP... A safe Avg is add $1200 to the figure you see with your Options... http://www.jayco.com/products/travel-trailers/2016-white-hawk/24rks/ I recently did this with a 2016 Whitehawk 24MBH...My local dealer MSRP was dead nuts on the Jayco MSRP...Another dealer was $2500 higher...Re: I'm now completely confused about tow vehicles Washington Bound wrote: boogie_4wheel wrote: I agree with 93Cobra2271. Verify trailer tires, brakes, and bearings. Check roof vents for brittle plastic that could be damages by 70mph winds. I recommend a newer half-ton rated for the weight (they do exist), or any older 3/4+ of just about any flavor rated for the weight. In my area, a truck to move that (and hopefully be serviceable and dependable enough to make the journey) would be $4000-5000 at a minimum (but maybe I have high standards). So, it's possible to find a 1/2 ton that would tow my trailer... are there specifications on the trucks that would tell me that? Forget the 1/2 ton. Go 3/4 and drive safely and enjoy that trip. That sounds like a great ride across country. You have to open the drivers door to get the ratings you need. And the Payload Capacity varies wildly in trucks. You need the GVWR and the GAWR off the white sticker and the Cargo Capacity off the yellow. If you're going used, don't waste your time even going to look at a truck unless the seller tells you what these numbers are. You have another problem here if looking for a 1/2 ton. Those numbers mean nothing, especially the Cargo Capacity unless YOU weigh the truck. Weight increases with everything and anything on and in a truck. Side steps, bed liner/rubber mat, tonneau cover. Case in point. I just weighed my truck last week and I was 300lbs heavier than I thought I'd be. And that was with subtracting my 160lb massive body. GVWR minus actual scale weight gives you your actual available Cargo Capacity. And it's going to be lower than what that yellow sticker says. Now go to the trailer sticker and finds its GVWR. Take a safe 13% of that and there's your most likely Tongue Weight. Subtract that number from your actual remaining Cargo Capacity. That's what you have left for everything you'll put in the truck for the trip including you, dogs, everything you'll take with you and probably 100lbs of Weight Distribution Hitch. It's getting uglier isn't it? Be SAFE and enjoy the trip. Get a 3/4 ton truck chief. I'd bet you'd be pushing the limits even if you find a 1/2 ton with 1800lbs of Cargo Capacity per the yellow sticker. Your tongue weight is going to be over 1,000lbs. 100 for WDH. There's 1100lbs. Add you, dogs and everything else in the truck including full tank of gas. You.re eating into that 1800lbs real quick. And I'd bet your actual Cargo Capacity is LESS than that after you weigh the truck.Re: What size of generator do you have? RvingSailor wrote: Thank you everyone for your replies. I know that anticipated load is what should be driving my decision but I'm figuring rv'ers with an 18' TT 'should' have the same size AC that I do. I've been looking at the Champion unit from Costco that's rated at 3500wt running/4375wt peak. I think this should be plenty to run my A/C. Cheers! ~rs That's alot of generator and at 68dba you're going to get those "Looks" if anyone else is around you. That's not crazy loud, but some people live to complain. NO generator that is not an Inverter is going to produce the "Clean" output that an Inverter/Generator will. If you don't want to spend the bucks for the Honda or Yamaha, look at this one from Champion. http://www.costco.com/Champion-2%2c800W-Running--3%2c100W-Peak-Digital-Inverter-Gas-Generator-%28CARB-50-State-compliant%29.product.100139466.html Some claim it will run the A/C and Microwave. Some say it won't. The obvious is shut off the A/C for a minute to run the Microwave. No big deal. And it's 58dba which is a big difference with others around. And for YOU if you want to sleep. I've been around both units and I'll be getting the Inverter/Generator before fall this year. And my trailer is 38 foot, not that length matters, it's all in what you want to run. I'm also in the East, so my A/C will never be run off this unit in November thru March which is what I need it for. Campground shuts down at that time.Re: Picking up our new trailerPDI...Do it regardless of what the dealer might say...Sign nothing until you do... Request the entire PDI be recorded and put to a DVD and keep it in the trailer for future reference... BEFORE you go to the dealer request 2 FULL propane tanks that you should get anyway. Access to electric power, a battery installed and water in the fresh tank... Operate EVERYTHING including every light switch, every faucet, shower, toilet etc...Open and close all slides and the awning...Extend and retract all stabilizer jacks and the tongue jack... TAKE A METER with you to check the operation of the Converter...Across the battery terminals should be right near 13.6V with the battery disconnect switch in the right position...It will DROP when you open the disconnect switch...DO IT or you won't know if that Converter is working... Have them show you how to bypass the HWH and how to use the Pump to winterize... Operate the HWH in both Electric AND on Propane...MAKE them operate the fridge on Electric and then trip it so it converts to Propane... Use the outside shower...Operate the tank valves and low water point drains when you're finished... Make a LIST before you go...There's alot to do and you will MISS something without a list...Re: where to measure to determine if trailer is level Walaby wrote: I've been using rear bumper and the floor. Although I don't try to get perfectly level front to back. Close (about half a bubble), so I make sure the condensation from the A/C flows to the rear of the trailer and drains off properly. I didn't/don't know if the gutters are level with the box, or if they slope one direction or another. It seemed like the first time I setup, they were level and condensation wasn't draining off fast enough for me. Does anyone else setup with this as a consideration? Mike I do that too...Because my front storage is directly below the gutter...Level up, then raise the tongue jack just a bit...Re: Keystone, forest river, jayco, thoughts on reliability?https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p936.pdf Qualified Home For you to take a home mortgage interest de- duction, your debt must be secured by a quali- fied home. This means your main home or your second home. A home includes a house, con- dominium, cooperative, mobile home, house trailer, boat, or similar property that has sleep- ing, cooking, and toilet facilities.Re: Keystone, forest river, jayco, thoughts on reliability?A second home must have sleeping, cooking, and toilet facilities. If your travel trailer meets these conditions, it can be a second home. You can deduct interest paid on a loan used to purchase your second home. You can only deduct interest for two homes—your main home and a second home. Real estate taxes or personal property taxes can be deducted on any number of homes. You can enter both of these deductions under Federal Taxes > Deductions & Credits > Your Home. https://ttlc.intuit.com/questions/2178178-how-do-i-claim-my-recreational-rv-travel-trailer-as-a-second-homeRe: To tarp or not to tarp, that is the question...I never tarp and never will... Ask yourself 2 questions... 1) Do dealers in the northern part of the country tarp their inventory on their lots over the winter? These are brand spanking new units... 2) Does anyone tarp their trailer from spring to fall when the season is in and it's subjected to the elements including hail possibilities? Personally, I don't want the ropes used to tarp beating on my trailers high gloss finish in higher winds... The ONLY cover I would ever even consider are the types that fit over the entire unit and get strapped UNDER the trailer...Re: Atwood Furnace Shuts Down in 90 SecondsI'm hearing it...Like an idiot I waited to check it just before I was ready to leave Sunday...Therefore I haven't done anything yet... Hopefully It's as simple as the dreaded wasp/mud dauber nest...It worked fine this spring...
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