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Re: 2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required
Well, After some testing it turns out that one of my new panels are defective. I was doing some testing in full sun today and maxing out around 15 amps. Doing some testing on the roof I determined that one panel, although it registered 19 volts, is not putting out any amps. I tested all the panels with a test of test cables straight from the panel connection to the combiner box. It would have been more convenient to discover this before mounting them to the roof. Due to nature of how the Renogy brackets attached (bottom of the panel frame) I think I'll have to pry the VHB tape up to remove it. Duncan854Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required
Finished up yesterday. Installed the battery box. Not too bad with two people and a hydraulic table. Mounted the combiner box on the roof. Starting to install panels Fridge vent back in place. Pretty much wrapped up Duncan853Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required
westend wrote: Thanks, a;ways nice to see a good installation completed. The subpanel is a beauty! Now all you have to figure is how you're going to use all the power, and beyond, lol. If you have some time, please, post back to this thread or start another with the operation of your inverter powered devices (fridge!). There are members asking about 120V or 12V fridges and the relationship between batteries, inverter, and fridge while using solar. Thanks. The subpanel is 1/4 aluminum plate that I rounded the edges over, sandblasted, and powder coated. I bought the vents from McMaster. It's removable since it serves as an access to the back of the panel. Jayco had just used a 12 x 14 furnace vent. I'm hoping to get the rest of it finished up by next weekend. Tomorrow I plan to build the combiner box. The panels should arrive during the middle of the week, and then I'll install the panels and the batteries . Duncan852Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required
Finally got this project off the ground, after a few months of acquiring pieces. I decided to locate the inverter and battery in the two forward most driver's storage compartments. They're just made of plastic, and I was concerned about the weight of the components so I started by fabricating some steel racks. They tie the outer storage compartment frame, which is metal, back to the frame rail. I also spent some time inside the coach outlining the location of the sub-panel, inverter panel, and Trimetric 2030RV battery monitor. While doing that, I noticed that the 50amp main electrical line into the panel was nicked all the way to the copper. The picture is after pulling it out the back of the box, but only the paper liner in the wire was separating the ground from the hot leg. -Duncan852Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required
smkettner wrote: Batteries added to the rear of the axle will reduce the tongue weight. Are you going full solar or will you have some sort of generator? Inverter... my preference is separate components. Inverter - Converter - Transfer switch that can be replaced separately if something fails. Subpanel is very convenient if you have space and access. I went with multiple transfer switches, one for each circuit powered. With 4x GC2 I would put you in the 500 watt solar zone. 2x ~250w 24v panels in series feeding a Morningstar TS-MPPT-30 would be my starting point. It's a motorhome, not a trailer, so the batteries being 10ft behind the rear axle is less than ideal for weight purposes. I have a 7.5K QD generator installed. Plenty of space right by the main panel to add a subpanel. Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking either 4 100w or 3 150w panels. I need to go climb on the roof and take some measurements, look at possible cable runs. I looked at your solar thread. Thanks for taking so many great pictures. Duncan285Views0likes0Comments
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