All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Do Slides scratch or disrupt Pergo flooring? Do a search on Slideout Slickers. X2Re: Big suprise, but it worked! Wouldn't recommend.I admit I haven't really paid much attention to this, but it seems to me that my EMS puts the second AC into "Shed" until the power draw settles down. Doesn't make any difference whether on shore or genny; it works the same.Re: 85 octaneWhen you drive I-15 thru Utah, you will notice regular is 87 octane in St. George (elevation about 2K') and it is 85 octane in SLC (elevation about 4.2K'). Every vehicle I have owned since 1980 has not had a problem with the fuel.Re: WFCO inverterIf the WFCO is original equipment on your RV, 10 years is well beyond its MTBF. Get an equivalent PD model and have it ready for an R&R.Re: converter problems10 years on a WFCO is amazing. Get rid of it.Re: F53 chassis hanling in the windI have absolutely no experience with the Ford chassis, but I have solved the sidewind and passing 18-wheeler bow wave effects on my Workhorse W20 chassis. From what I have read about the problem and felt with my butt-dyno, the movement is made worse when the coach body and the chassis are not solidly connected to eliminate side-to-side movement. This is definitely a problem with leaf spring suspensions like on the W20. When an 18-wheeler overtakes your RV, the bow-wave hits the left rear of the coach first, and that pushes the rear toward the shoulder. When the body rear moves right slightly before the rear axle does, it amplifies the push to the left that you feel in the front causing you to correct by steering to the right. As the 18-wheeler bow wave moves toward the front of the coach, it pushes the front of the coach to the right, and when the body moves right slightly before the front axle does, it amplifies the steering correction you have already done causing you to have to correct to the left. This whole thing, if you are not used to the feelings, can be quite scary. What I have found is that the best solution for the whole problem on my W20 is to install a trac-bar on both the front and rear axles to force the body and chassis to react together when needed. FYI, the sway bars on Workhorse W-Series chassis don’t help side-to-side movement at all because they are mounted only between the leaf springs, and not to the chassis.Re: Our first motorhome question.Trade for a DP is easy to say. A 2016 coach on a gas chassis most likely is a Ford F53. There's lots of experience and help at the F53 Forum at this link iRV2 F53. Might want to check it out.Re: sway bar and steering stabilizerGetting moved around by the bow wave from a passing 18-wheeler will not be solved at all with sway bars, and a steering stabilizer will not help much either. A Trac bar on both the rear and front axles will keep the coach and the chassis tied together and help the most to eliminate sideways movement that you will notice from the wind.Re: Two QuestionsI solved the "run every month" problem by adding a shut-off to the generator gas line. Turn off the gas, let the gen run till it dies from lack of fuel, and it can sit forever. When you need it again, make sure to prime it before cranking.Re: Help, Ford Explore battery dies when flat towingDo yourself a favor and install a charge line from the MH to the battery. When I bought a 2014 C-Max I checked a couple of forums on the subject, and adding a charge line seemed to be the most popular solution. Adding a 10A line to my umbilical wasn't very difficult. Put a fuse or breaker on each end to protect everything. Never have had a problem with running the battery down when towing.