All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: AWNINGS above the Slide Outs during the Wind r KILLING ME!!!bfast54, try n stay on point if you can? for I know it's hard to resist, i.e. "kindly" telling that someone the bennies of the awning topper. but again, stay on point n help me ok? i.e. answer my topic, not the disgruntled author of why he hates toppers and wast of money....Re: AWNINGS above the Slide Outs during the Wind r KILLING ME!!!thx rv2go, have not "been up there" to take a look yet n was not aware that it could be tightened or loosened for that manner. what kind of tool are we talking about to do so, assuming they are all standard? update.....I just looked outside for a 2nd from the ground. all is see that can be adjusted is the open (female insert) end of a hexagon pipe like one would use an "allen wrench" of sort to turn it? but I'm not even sure that is supposed to turn? finally, I do see a dometic sticker on the underside of the awning so can/will contact them for instruction or tips as they are manufacturer.Re: AWNINGS above the Slide Outs during the Wind r KILLING ME!!!Thanks again to all, but DutchmenSport that idea is the bomb. It makes sense, SIMPLEST n CHEAPEST FIX!!! Plus, I can adjust the air in each ball as needed! I can probably get these beach balls in the $ store!AWNINGS above the Slide Outs during the Wind r KILLING ME!!!I'm a full timer in my 5th. And for some reason, it is bloody windy allllll the time or around the seasons here in Jersey. Except for summer perhaps. So yes, I am able to pull in the main awning which is great. But on my 3 slides I have 3 awnings. And I leave my slides OUT 24/7 of course, so awnings stay out! They must stay out. These awnings cannot be retracted like the main awning. Problem is, cannot take in those 3 awnings. And yes, I understand that they are designed that way to protect the top of the slide from branches, droppings, etc. For when it comes time to pull in the slide, it moves in easily and without obstruction. But my problem (and surely I am not alone), is with the more then I can ask for bursts of winds come the air FLAPS N FLAPS UNDERNEATH THE AWNINGS AND MAKES LOUD N CONSTANT ANNOYING NOISE. And as I cannot retract those 3 awnings IN without closing the slides IN, what do I do? And who knows what the past fall n winter months damage must have been done? For these RV's are for built n designed for "recreational use" ONLY and not for full time living. I was thinking about buying some heavy duty and thick (whatever the height is from the top of the slides to the awning) foam/sponge and cutting it into shape like a "wedge" of sort. And stuff inside that space so the air cannot channel inside and cause the "flapping" of the annoying sound!!! Thanks in advance for your thoughts or suggestions!Re: Roof Vent Cover...One Fit Only & Which Brand or Color?Yeah, 14" X 14" sounds very true! Don't know what the Fantastic Fan is, but you know I just want n need is Vent Covers on the roof right? Do not need inside fans. I'm leaning towards the "Smoke" color so I don't lose all the light coming thru and she still will not show all the dirt on the top of her. And I do agree that the Black color will absorb the Sun Rays and push that heat into my rig which I do not want. Or.........can the Black choice act or serve as the same as "tinted windows" on vehicles like any smart full time resident in South Florida or Floridian maintains??? Its proven to keep vehicles cooler during the summer. Would this theory work the same with regard to the RV Vent Cover application? Now I have to rethink this, black v white? Maybe a Member has tried both and would know? I just want the purpose of the Cover to Priority One: Keep Out the rain, leaves, acorns, etc.! And still important, if I have all the roof lids raised during the summer and step out for awhile and during that time it pours rain and my inside rig gets soaked. But these covers well appear to fix that problem!!! So even if I forget to close the lids, my interior still will not get wet, right?Re: First post, new ownerI just got online but wished I gotcha before you started your voyage! But If you have not left yet or even if you stop for a drink n food by a convenience store......grab about 3 of the 10 lbs bags and 3 gallons of water. With the age of your Prowler, be surprised if if had an electronic sensor board to monitor the amount of waste in the Black Tank. But any mindful Human Being would not sell the Rig to you with it full (right?) so I will assume she is empty. No make sure your your black waste valve is closed (should be closed obviously as you are traveling, gray tanks too!) Slam the ice to the ground pavement to loosen each bag up real good! Now take the 1st bag and slowly empty into the toilet, then followed by a gallon of water. Repeat the process for all the bags of ice n water. So now.....while your driving on the highway making turns, bumps, etc. the small ice blocks will act as rocks and bang up against the steel walls and hitting the solid waste n TP along the way!!! This action will remove all this sediment etc. from the electronic sensors or probes. And even if you don't have the sensors, the ice will still "knock the hard around" and all will loosen in the ice melting with water mixture!!! Solution? Rid the tank of all solid waste so when you get home (let sit at least 24 hours as I don't know how long your drive is) then open your black waste valve and watch the now mostly brown soup poop exit into your septic line. Tip: After the brown poop stops on its own (and you should invest in a clear fitting so you can see when all the waste has exited), now put a very heavy brick etc. on the toilet foot pedal to force and leave it open!!! Or I use my toilet brush to keep it open, as long as you get n keep the water running down to the toilet. Now go outside and wait till what you see!!! You thought the black waste tank was empty and free of all poop right? Nope! You will see the brown glump out now and let the water run for as long as it takes till you see clear water coming out! (note: there are other waste clean out options, but the one above is basic and does not cost a dime) except for the ice n water....LOLRoof Vent Cover...One Fit Only & Which Brand or Color?I have the basic ceiling fan in the bedroom and in the bathroom. Then I have a 3rd but more techo fan in the kitchen ceiling which as you know (if you have one that is) has it's own thermostat and the roof lid can be opened manually or electronically. So 1st question is, what Brand do you recommend? i.e. Camco, Maxi Air (I think it's called) and there is a 3rd Manufacturer I believe? And 2nd, even tho I have the one thermo controlled fan, is the Roof Opening the exact same as the other 2 basic fans? i.e. if I ordered 3 covers will the 3rd one fit perfectly as the other 2? And finally 3rd, I was asking your opinion on what color? Black, White, Clear, or even Smoke? i.e. reasons like the white would show all the dirt. the clear even worse showing all the dirt! black maybe great as can't see the dirt but at the same time, blocking all the beautiful daylight, and darkening the inside!!! So lemme know "if you have been there" etc. and would do it differently if these **** covers were not so darn expensive for a simple plastic rectangular box, right??? Thank you in advance to all!Re: NOW..........NO HOT WATER AT ALL!!!Does my Suburban system have a circuit control board like the furnace? For the furnace control board is clearly visible and accessible from the outside door panel and I have already replaced it. But what about the HWH and as I need help with here today. So if it has a board, then it is not visible or accessible from the outside door panel. So if one, where is it and can a DIY'r get to it to check it out?Re: NOW..........NO HOT WATER AT ALL!!!Nope, by-pass has not been touched. But thank you.Re: NOW..........NO HOT WATER AT ALL!!!Suburban Model is # SW12DE btw. Mandalay & Old-Bis (others of course!), following both suggestions. 1st being retrace my steps of what I disturbed and 2nd, did I disturb the electrode placement? On the Thermo LP spades, I noticed that they were flopped up and I thought out of place? So I depressed them back down parallel (just like the Elect spades). Was that a no-no? Would it make a difference? Next, when replacing the gas pipe it was very stubborn to line that one bolt back into the "frame lined hole" so I placed a screwdriver on top of the pipe and kinda pryed it down and shimmied into place. Perhaps I disturbed the path and correct position of the 2 electrodes? Are they supposed to be heavily engulfed into the flame or just hoovering over the flame? I will have to look, but certainly hope I did not crack the ceramic on the electrode body? That should be visible yes? But assume it would fall out if so? But putting that aside, interested in the electrode placement right now?
GroupsFifth Wheel Group Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts