jamesham
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Re: Preparing for Cross Country Trip in 2003 Jayco Greyhawk
A cell phone with CoachNet number on Speed Dial is the best emergency tool. If breakdown beside the highway, getting towed to safe spot is my first concern. I have a 96 motorhome, so have the age concerns that comes with such a machine. My limited replacement parts box has: fuses, sepentine belt, radiator hoses, light bulbs, and some hunks of fusible wire. Ford 450 parts are easy to get via overnight service so not hard to find after you determine what is needed. Tool box has Rescue Tape as my primary go-to product for everything from electrical to water leaks. The usual Eterna Bond, Duck Tape, Metal Tape, Super Glue, Silicone Spray and WD40 goes in any RV. Battery jump pack and Air Compressor take up a lot of space but great when needed. To save space, the Schumacher model SJ1332 does both, and provides an inverter too for low-wattage use. I do not leave home without a new spare tire and an unmounted old one for emergency backup. Some would not have all of the weight and space of a spare, so it is a personal choice.433Views0likes0CommentsRe: We FINALLY did it
Remco is a great site for determining what you need to tow your Equinox 4-down. The URL is: www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store. Depending on the year, it looks like all new towing equipment would cost $3,000 to $3,500. For reference, Camping World has a tow dolly with electric brakes on sale for $1,749 at this URL: www.campingworld.com/roadmaster-universal-tow-dolly-with-electric-brakes. I would never buy it from Camping World just because I protest their 20 year loan agressive sales practices on new RV's, but to each his own. jh dottie999 wrote: After shopping and dreaming about it and looking back missing many opportunities we finally bit the bullet and bought our first motorhome. We are soon to be proud owners of Jayco Greyhawk and we can't wait to get in it !! Our next hurdles other than figuring everything out will be dolly or 4 down for our Equinox, but baby steps, because it's taken us years to get here. ??331Views0likes0CommentsRe: We FINALLY did it
Congratulations. Welcome to the joys of motorhome ownership. Expect some hidden repairs as you begin your ownership. Also expect an uncontrollable urge to buy small little things at Camping World that really add up at the cash register. Google the topic of car towing and read everything BEFORE you invest thousands. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. And there are solid ownership reasons given from both types of towing why their particular method is the only way to go. Some depends on where you intend to go, and how long you want to keep the same tow vehicle. It also depends on your stay habits...do you intend to drive to FL and stay in the same place for 4 months, meaning only 1 hook/unhook? Or are you planning to explore and unhook every single night? Best wishes, and great luck. jh dottie999 wrote: After shopping and dreaming about it and looking back missing many opportunities we finally bit the bullet and bought our first motorhome. We are soon to be proud owners of Jayco Greyhawk and we can't wait to get in it !! Our next hurdles other than figuring everything out will be dolly or 4 down for our Equinox, but baby steps, because it's taken us years to get here. ??331Views0likes0CommentsRe: 460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question
I had an Alamo brand heat/cool unit under the rear seat of a 76 Chevy van. It had two smaller refrigerant lines going to it that were branched off the front dash air. It also had two larger rubber hoses branched off the back of the engine coolant lines just before they went to the under dash heater. It helped the rear seat passengers, especially in summer with a little more AC in the back. There also were 4 electric wires to carry 12 volts to the fans in the unit. Perhaps that is what you have? Mine did not have any remote air outlet registers...just a grill on the front that produced hot or cold air depending on the switch position in front on the dash. I do not think it was factory from Chevy, but installed by the previous owner.336Views0likes0CommentsRe: 460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question
No picture on this end either. Glad you made it home OK. I will be a lot easier to fix in your own driveway. Did a quick Google search and the only Atwood product listed that has an engine heat exhanger is a 6 or 10 gallon hot water heater. This product location would be obvious on the exterior because of the large door with vents. I did not find anything online that is an interior heater. So I cannot offer any direct advice on what you have. I did have both units many years ago on an old Class C, so I know both water heaters and interior heaters existed in the 80s. We have added the Reflectix insulation INSIDE the doghouse, and it still warms the driver's foot. We sometimes pile extra carpet pieces on the side on really hot days with a really long drive. Our Chevy Class C is cooler and less noise than our previous Ford and Dodge chassis motorhomes. jh335Views0likes0CommentsRe: 460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question
I agree, blocking/cutting the hoses off or replacing both is much easier NOT on a hot engine on the side of the road. I am glad to hear you had good luck with GS Road Service. I use CoachNet and have needed them three times in 5 years. They were great to deal with each time. I have some friends with motorhomes that have not been happy with the response from Sam when they needed help. Glad to hear yours was a positive experience. Hope for no bad events on the way home.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: 460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question
Your situation kind of reminds me of my Dad's old cars of the 50's before air conditioning or motorhomes. The coolant circulated thru the under dash heater and produced some heat even in summer with the fan off and vents closed. The DIY solution then was an inline water valve (sometimes controlled by an extended push wire) that stopped ALL coolant from entering the car interior. When I had a similar heat situation with my motorhome many years later, the same inline water valves were STILL available at auto parts houses. I replaced the lousy factory installed rubber hose with copper pipe covered in foam home plumbing insulation and screwed with plastic hangers to the bottom of the RV floor. I did a lot of work before I decided the whole idea was not needed and eventually replaced the old water heater with a new gas/electric model with direct spark ignition; no pilot light. If you have a switch to turn a fan on/off, it may be nice to have extra heat in winter. jim336Views0likes0CommentsRe: 460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question
I had a Brougham Class C motorhome on a Dodge Chassis that had rubber heater hoses going clear to the back 6 gallon hot water heater. There also was a small heat exchanger (small radiator) back there in the same place. Engine coolant circulated back there to provide domestic hot water while en route without burning any propane. My bet is your unit has something similar. It was a great idea, but poorly installed. The rubber hoses were not protected and burned by exhaust, and punctured by rocks. You have coolant coming out of one hose that is going TO the rear. Since nothing is reaching the rear, nothing comes out the RETURN hose. Even after replacing the factory sloppy install with rear pipe, the system left much to be desired. The water temp was unregulated, so the water heater might produce scalding hot water after a long drive. The small heater radiator had no fan, so produced very little heat in winter. But in summer, it was a hot spot exactly where and when no heat was needed. I ended up slicing the hose by the engine and installing a water shut off valve in the out line to the back. This stopped any possible leaks, and only provided heat when needed in winter. jim BFL13 wrote: Trying to identify two hoses in the Class C where both are holed but only one leaks. (Had to stop from overheating, and eventually found the leak-- got towed to destination, now to fix it and get home -one hour drive) Sorry-no pictures till after I get it home with temporary fixes. Doghouse removed, on the passenger side back of engine above transmission and going back out of sight under the floor, there are two long rubber hoses coming from higher on the right front side. Both same size about 1 inch outside dia. with inside diameter 5/8 and take a copper 1/2 inch pipe that can be clamped as a repair. At floor level, these two hoses are just above the two hoses that go to the catalytic converter (removed last winter). One was leaking coolant from a hole burnt out where the two hoses were on something hot just back out of sight under the floor, perhaps the exhaust, but maybe where I had a problem a few months ago with another pair of pipes close by that went to the catalytic converter. That got fixed, but it seems these two other hoses were damaged then or since. There is some slack in the two hoses so you can pull them up enough to do the repair. I cut away the damaged part of the leaking hose and did a repair with copper pipe and clamps so that should get us home,(with added coolant top-up) but what about that second hose right beside it with a hole in it that is not leaking? Obviously I can do a similar repair of that hose, but do I need to? What does it do? I also have to figure out a way to keep these two hoses clear of whatever they were lying on that got them so hot and burnt holes in them. Thanks.71Views0likes0Comments
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