Nomadist
Explorer II
Joined Dec 30, 2020
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Lifting my class C
BruceMc, that's my understanding, too (that for Class C's the length behind the wheels is the most important factor). It's actually a pain in the butt having such a long overhang. I have to be extra careful even just to enter a gas station. I'm quite sure it's going to restrict me as I search for boondocking locations. But this is my first rig and I'm learning tons. I'm relating to it as my laboratory for me to make experiments. My next rig will *definitely* have a decent departure angle. In the meantime, I'll just make a list of all the places I'll have to return to with the next rig while I enjoy the places I can go. :-)1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
In the immortal words of that character in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, "I'm not dead yet!" (video clip). I have been busy! And on April 5, 2021 I left the San Francisco Bay Area with my highly upgraded rig, toward Austin, TX to set up my new domicile. When it came down to crunch time, fitting an air compressor didn't make the short list so I decided to move it to the "figure it out on the road" list. The list of upgrades I performed is long: • new fan-cooled LED headlights • new countertop • new, deep, single sink with flexible faucet • new custom-made sink cover • new backsplash behind stove • new interior LED lights everywhere • new kitchen table • new custom-made blackout privacy curtains between the cab and living area; doing a great job stopping heat from the cab getting through • new custom-made blackout curtains in the cabover • new flooring leading to and in the bathroom (removed carpet) • primer and two-coats of paint on the cupboards, walls and ceiling; dual colors (dark grey and white) • new carpet in the cab (no pic of that) • extra Hebron 12V freezer under one of the seats • new Webasto heater that gets fuel from the main tank • new 200 amp•hr Lithium battery system • new 220W portable solar suitcase with 30ft cable • new custom dual-shade cell blinds (light-through and total blackout) • window frames removed, spray-painted metallic grey and replaced • new black hardware everywhere • new wireless backup camera (not shown) • new, organic foam mattress • new ceiling fan New custom-made trailer for the motorcycle, with: • shelves • motorcycle chock • L-tracks to tie down the motorcycle • workbench • lithium battery and new LED lighting throughout • tool drawers • mountain bike rack • backup camera • about 10 Husky storage bins strapped to the shelves • six Wolf Pack FrontRunner containers, mounted under the workbench • storage for Gas Pro steak broiler (important!) • sound-proofed outside storage bin for portable generator 5 same-key locks from PacLock: • three padlocks • hitch lock • hitch receiver lock I'm still waiting in Texas for my new vehicle plates (I made mistakes with the applications so I'm re-sending corrected versions) but I've since moved to Lake Conroe just north of Houston as I meander toward New Orleans. On the road, I installed an outdoor fridge fan to make the refrigeration more efficient (some newer rigs install these at the factory now instead of depending solely on convection) and repaired my trailer electrical connection. I don't know if the fan helps yet but everyone else online says that it certainly will. I have several projects in front of the air bags but I figure until I head west again where there is more opportunity for boondocking (there is almost no public land suitable for boondocking in Texas, it seems), it feels like the priorities have been correct. Here are some pics and video of the before and after of the rig: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTyfmuj4qG8HLrNMA911Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@gotsmart interesting that you have an actual skid. It's got some wear but not too much. In my case, I don't think the receiver can go higher without needing to go through the white bumper because it would be mounted atop the crossbar. It looks that the configuration is different between the two rigs. But look at how the designers figured out for your rig that the wheels needed to be pushed back and a slope added to the rear overhang, as well. Your rig is longer but those two changes increase the departure angle a lot. As someone else pointed out, the geometry of my rig simply doesn't give me much to work with—which is another good reason to keep my changes to a minimum. Anything I do won't change this rig's departure angle much. @memtb thanks for those pictures! That's what I was thinking of (though I remember one even wider; no matter). Interesting how your roller is mounted beneath the receiver hitch. The only thing with that is that the bottom of the roller is about the same distance from the frame as the bottom of my wheels. Changing to a roller reduces the chance of a wheel getting into a hole—but it doesn't buy me any more inches/increase my departure angle :-(.753Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@memtb thanks for the suggestion...I think I've seen those wide ones but after 10 minutes of searching online the only picture I've found was this: pinterest . ca/pin/314900198915333079 Checked some retailers, tried "rv wide roller", "camper roller" and a few other search terms. In any case, I'm pretty sure I know what you are referring to. They are *much* wider than simple wheels, which, as you point out, can end up in a hole. Two wide rollers on either side would seem to be better. Have to think that one over...my initial thinking is that I'll start with these because I have them and keep the roller idea in my back pocket if it looks like I could use them. Edit: found this thread. Some folks there are adamant that rollers and wheels should not be used and instead recommend skid plates. A dealer chimed in saying he replaces "dozens" of rear-quarter panels yearly because of rollers: airforums. com/forums/f477/bumper-rollers-26660.html Has me think that my intuition of preventing the rear from touching at all was on target (to the best of my abilities). It also has me think of going even more slowly over angle changes than I already have been. In my case, the wheels are attached to the frame so I think I have less risk than the airstream trailers might have. Still. @opnspaces when underneath yesterday, I was looking at the rollers and thinking the same thing: the bottom of the roller might *just* protect the hitch receiver with the spacer removed. I'll measure it next time. I took this picture hoping to show the angle...it's close: In the least, I can replace the spacer with a smaller one. Two extra inches! At least I now know after my under-carriage investigations that the scraping sound I was hearing was actually the wheels. Phew. @pianotuna it's very possible he means 3 feet...the roller I saw went clear across the rear bumper. Wish I could find a picture to post. @DrewE good point. I can test before investing in the compressor.757Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@Grit dog and @DrewE agreed...moving forward with getting the airbags operational. I followed the tubes and they terminated here: I took a look at 12VDC compressors just now and there a lot to choose from, so that's a research project on my plate. Air Lift has a good page that describes how to select one. airliftcompany . com/workshop/choose-on-board-air-compressor-system One thing I'm seeing is that perhaps a dual-path system will allow me to level the rig left-to-right when it's uneven. Hmmm. And I agree with this: "Personally, not worth putting a pile of money into the back of an old RV for a couple inches ground clearance." I'm happy to be finding lower-priced solutions as I proceed (it doesn't hurt that my solutions also happened to be already installed). In particular, it seems I should flip the order of my last list above and get the air bags going right away: 1. Get air bags working 2. Consult with suspension shop 3. Replace the leaf springs 4. Replace shocks 5. Install rear stabilizer bar @pianotuna thanks for the suggestion; never heard of that product and I can see the value. Will keep that in mind.484Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@Gary45 very good, I'll go looking for the other end of that tube. Too funny. @Jack Spratt my guess is you are saying that replacement is required because they are almost horizontal. The rig has 70,000 miles and perhaps they have yet to be replaced. With extensive towing, that likely wore them out at an accelerated rate. @gjac yes, this is a good time to determine what the design specs are and compare. I'll look for a scale near me. @travisc I might get away with leaving those alone with the other changes below. @Booner I, too, am new to hitches but by replacing the leaf springs and with the airbags I may be able to leave that alone. Definitely taking your advice to add a stabilizer and replace the shocks. @DrewE you mentioned that the leaf springs may look flat...and @Jack Spratt mentioned that they look like they need to be replaced. My inclination is to replace but I will ask the local suspension shop for their opinion, as well. @ron.dittmer I'm definitely going with the stabilizer. The rig does seem tippy to me (one caveat: this is my first RV so I have no experience to compare against). And I may get back to you on the brakes. Another goal has been to find a mechanic to give the rig a once-over but I haven't found that mechanic yet; car mechanics I've asked uniformly have said it's not their specialty so I continue to look for one. Well, the new task list has become: 1. Replace the leaf springs; get some extra inches that way 2. Replace shocks (they look original to me and this is a good time to do it) 3. Install rear stabilizer bar (not for height but to improve the handling) 4. Get airbags working Given that I'll get only two inches extra height from the trailer manufacturer, that I already have castor wheels and that I already have airbags, this seems like a good list for Phase 1. I'll leave the hitch alone for now. Phase 2 can be new tires more suitable for the tiny amount of off-road I intend on doing—but only when these are worn out.480Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@BurbMan yes, that's exactly my concern. I started this process thinking of a lift kit (and found one that would work at actionvansuspension . com) but others warned of the raised CG. And I'm not trying to turn this into offroad vehicle; I just need a bit extra occasionally. @time2roll yes, 5" is a lot...and then that causes an issue with the trailer I'm having made. The manufacturer says he can do 2" from the factory no problem but is not set up to provide more than that. I haven't put it on a scale yet...the rear does look saggy. And yet another interesting find underneath. Please don't laugh as suspensions are new to me but does this look like it already has airbags to you? That red wire is there for some reason.477Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lifting my class C
@Lwiddis thank you. @opnspaces thank you for the welcome and also thank you for posting the pictures. I went back to the original post and tried it myself to learn how to do it. But I still appreciate your gesture. I'll definitely go more on an angle to lessen the problem. I just checked underneath and I'm discovering some things. I bought the rig from a dealer who accepted it as a trade-in from the original owner. I never got to talk to the owner. But it's clear that the owner towed something because the rig came with the hitch and he bought the V10. Actually looking underneath showed me several interesting things: 1. it already has castor wheels. See picture below. I haven't had a reason to look behind the rear skirt and they are invisible looking directly at the rear because of the skirt. That's nice—one less thing to install. 2. it does have leaf springs and they are mounted atop the axle. Thus, it appears I can put a spacer there and an extra spring. Peering underneath showed me the castor wheels: So, given that I still want extra height, it seems the new short list in rough order of preference is: 1. install a spacer 2. install another leaf spring 3. install a rear stabilizer from Hellwig 4. install new, stronger shocks (but only if necessary) 5. install air bags 6. install front stabilizer 7. install a front-and-rear lift kit It seems to me doing 1 + 2 + 3 get me really close to what I want. If not, I replace the shocks and add the air bags and front stabilizer. It seems that the full lift kit (with its high cost) isn't necessary at all. Did I miss anything? It seems likely this will give the rear 3 extra inches. The rear will be higher than the front but that shouldn't cause a problem, correct?451Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 26, 202138,768 Posts
