donfrump
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Re: 2008 allegro bus atwood leveler location of on/off switch
TROPYEK wrote: Atwood leveler, It shows on diagram of pad there is a on off switch located somewhere besides the one on leveler pad, we have no power to keypad, checked all fuses good cant locate switch would anybody know location, an hopefully this will solve our problem thanks John you do have the key in the on position? there will be a fuse on the controller if so equipped and a fuse in the house 12V fuse department most likley226Views0likes0CommentsRe: All Electric Motorhomes
Blaster Man wrote: donfrump wrote: Blaster Man wrote: pointrow wrote: Most I have seen have an AquaHot system for the main source of heat and hot water. Agree, and the AH is many times better than the old propane furnace. to some it is. My old 2002 AB had two LPG furnaces that were extremely efficient and quiet.They dont cause problems etc My 450AH does not heat any more efficient and I hate the diesel smell you can get if the breeze is blowing the wrong way so I use 120V as much as possible. its a extremely expensive unit if u have any major failures or don't know how to self service the unit I like the motor antifreeze heat assistance package while driving in cool weather though If installed and working properly you should not have any diesel smell. its installed and working 100% correctly its fired by diesel when you have a diesel exhaust you get diesel fumes end of story that why most RV resorts have banned direct venting and must use venture exhaust stacks384Views0likes0CommentsRe: Low gear appears to be gone..
tropical36 wrote: HAZMATMAN wrote: I had this problem with my 99 Ford with the V10. It felt like I was starting out in 3rd girl. Ended up taking it to Ford. Found out the coach battery was not charging as it should, and with all the electronics it was sending a message to the computer that it was going about 100 mph and wasn't going to allow it to downshift. Installed new battery and everything works fine. Crazy, but why would the coach batteries have to do with anything and are ya sure you're not talking about the chassis battery? I believe he means the chassis battery and whatever he believes did not happen as he posts I can guarantee you that378Views0likes0CommentsRe: Thinking about buying this as first mh
As described and by the pictures its rough alright but its priced very cheap and I bet you offer 35-38 area u own it.U can put 10K+ into redoing it and have yourself a well build real nice diesel pusher Better go make sure it runs good and sHifts good and drives good do a dry run on dumping holding tanks, hook up water and power etc and make sure the systems work etc the pictures all show cosmetic stuff and that's all easly repairable tires alone are 4500$ If your DIY guy its fine IF u have to hire someone it may be a bad buy397Views0likes0CommentsRe: Only getting 30A indicated on 50A connection
CatchinBluegill wrote: I recently bought a 2009 Bounder 35H, it has 50A service via an Intellitec Smart EMS, model 900. I had my electrician (licensed, bonded, experienced, has been doing work for my family for many years and has never messed anything up) add a 50A-240V circuit for shore power, and the voltages test correctly at the socket, as described in this thread. Measured voltage is 235V across the outside pair, and 118 on each of the 120V pairs. However, the panel only reports 30A service, among the choices of Gen Set, 50A, 30A, 20A. I measured voltage at the RV end of the power cable, and am seeing a lot of voltage loss. Measured voltage at the RV end of the cable is 185 across the outside pair, and 88V on the 120V legs. I'm losing 60V on the 240 and (consistently), 30V on each of the 120V legs, over a 25 foot cable. Is this just a bad power cable, or do I need to look for some other issue? When I got the RV, there was a gap of about 1/2 inch between the end of the outer cable jacket and the male plug, so I had my electrician replace that plug at the same time he installed my 50A circuit, but perhaps some evil lurks in the heart of that cable anyway? Thanks! pull the ats cover off and measure the voltage coming in/out of the ATS if its still low I will assume bad plug at house outlet or bad wire in the 25 cord someone suggested a crossed G+N seeing as there almost the same thing iam not seeing that as causing voltage drop in a power cord however its a extremely unsafe way to wire and the gfi may not work as required .I doubt the electrician did this in this case also make sure there is zero draw in motor home when measuring the voltage as it comes into the ATS. SO TURN turn off the dual 50 amp main breaker in the MH panel326Views0likes0CommentsRe: New ball joints needed at 30,000 miles?
nano wrote: We have a 2012 Ram 2500. Just turned 30,000 miles. Brought it in for a recall and oil change, and found that both upper and lower ball joints are shot. Does that seem right? We only haul our 5th wheel about 300 miles total per year. That's the only workout our truck gets. if its a diesel and its been on ruff roads its possible but all ball joints at 30K have a little movement in a front heavy vehicle such as yours.may not be enough to replace yet get a second opinion also if its been driven a lot in real wet conditions and left to sit at long times and not greased etc it can cause premature ball joint failure692Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can high water pressure confuse your Hydronic heater?
DSDP Don wrote: I was new to hydronic heating (Oasis) when we bought our 2014 Newmar. It had a little bit of a learning curve. I've learned that the water temperature and furnace use have a big impact on how the unit performs. My unit has two 120 volt electric heaters and the diesel burner. If the water is reasonably warm, the two electric units will give a good hot shower. If the water is cold, the two electric units will not do the job and I have to turn on the diesel burner. When the water isn't too cold, but we're running the furnace, (radiators are being heated) the shower will again need the extra diesel burner. If the diesel burner is left on, along with the electric burners, we never have an issue, but I don't like to run the burner unless it's necessary, especially when in close proximity to other campers. Mine has no odor, but can be loud. In warm weather, the two electric burners work well. I know nothing about the AquaHot system, but the ones I've seen are much larger than the Oasis unit in my coach. I'm guessing the AquaHot units are more powerful and probably take less management than my Oasis unit. that is one thing oasis is known for * odorless* verses the AH the big AH 600 series has dual 120V heaters and one almost never needs diesel for heat or long shower unless boondocking315Views0likes0CommentsRe: Low gear appears to be gone..
Gjac wrote: psalm10720 wrote: It goes up and down the gears just fine but does not go into low. I appreciate all the feedback. I will look for a place that does a total flush. Fortunately I have it on a spot where I have hookups. I am a full timer... . When you say it will not go into low gear do you mean when you shift it to low it physically does not go into the low position or it goes into the low or 1 position but actually starts in 2nd? read previous posts takes off in second gear no matter drive or low select according to the OP378Views0likes0CommentsRe: Low gear appears to be gone..
psalm10720 wrote: With all the wonderful feedback my plan of attack is.... Get a good flush and service of the trans fluid which includes filter change. I checked the level and the quality and both are currently good. If that does not correct I will start with the solenoid possibility then the low gear band. I will let the post know when I have something to report. Due to tight money I may not be able to afford to do anything right away but do sincerely appreciate all the insightful helpful responses... Its your rig and your money but to me its pointless to just flush and service as it WILL NOT SOLVE your no low gear.378Views0likes0Comments
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