fuzzdr
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Re: Illuminated powered rocker switch for black water.
There are 2 kinds of 'manual dump valves'. The kind installed by Cruiser at the factory is the worst kind. Those valves are attached to a very long cable (about 8 ft. if I remember correctly). All of that cable length introduces way too much friction which all but guarantees failure eventually. And the actual valve itself can become stuck even if the cable is moving properly. I had to replace my black valve shortly after taking delivery. The replacement was brand new and identical to the original. The new valve was stuck tight about 20% open in only a couple of weeks. Working on these valves is a nasty job-cut away enough underbelly fabric for access and then have poop gushing into one's face as the valve is replaced.Then attempt to replace the underbelly again. This time, my replacement valve is a 12vdc electric valve. It has been working flawlessly for the last one year plus. I also added a manual black valve which is placed directly inboard of the drain cap. This second valve will really be appreciated if your main valve fails and will save your shoes from being dumped on with poop at the dump station. The other type of manual black dump valve provided by some manufacturers is not found under the underbelly fabric fortunately. It is similar to my second valve (see above) in that it is found just inboard of the dump cap. I had one of these valves on my Sprinter TT. If my present electric valve ever fails, I will make sure that it is stuck in the open position and from that point on just use my second valve just inside the dump cap.........just like Sprinter owners do from the get-go. My electric black valve is a Valterra Electric EZ Valve470Views0likes0CommentsRe: Illuminated powered rocker switch for black water.
I installed a power valve for my black tank this summer as the original cable hand operated valve had failed. I still use the manual system for my 2 grey tanks. So far all is good. To answer one of your questions, yes the manual lever is on the electric valve which is under the belly fabric. I had only 2 wires to connect to 12 vdc power, a grey negative and a black positive. I connected these to an accessory fuse panel that I had installed in the battery compartment when I was installing my battery switch. Note that ground wires on RVs and related equipment are coloured white (sometimes light grey). Positive wires on RVs are coloured black. On a car or truck, negative is black and positive is red. Internally in the wiring harness, the ground divides to supply both the motor and the switch on light. Same for the 12vdc positive supply. I would use an automotive 12 volt test light for trouble shooting. Attach the black wire of the test light to a good ground by using it's clip.Touch the pointed probe to any wire you want to test for power and the test light will illuminate. If the motor is healthy and has power, you will be able to hear it run also. Don't destroy the belly fabric until you make a diagnosis with the test light that the motor is toast.149Views0likes0CommentsRe: f250 or f350?
Go with the 6.7 L diesel. I bought a 2014 F-250 gas unit for my 33' Cruiser. That was a big mistake in that I then traded it in on what I should have bought in the first place, an F-350 for weight issues and diesel for power issues particularly when climbing hills. I love my new truck.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: problems with dump tank handles
I had the same problem with my 2013 Cruiser. A couple of weeks after having changed the black valve and cable with a new one, it happened again. Enough, so I swapped the valve and cable for an electric setup. The other thing I did was to add an extra valve just inboard of the dumping cap. I did this when the manual valve first started leaking. For the past few months, there have been no more black valve problems. Touch wood............539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging
My Cruiser fiver came without any sort of battery switch. I plan to install a standard marine 2 place switch. I have happily used one of these in my boat since 1991. Over the winter months I remove the batteries and store them inside the heated house. Then check the electrolyte level and voltage every couple of months and top up and/or charge as required. My property is all hills and ravines which prevents my rv from any access to a 120 vac source. That means using a generator or removing the batteries and moving them to a power source.214Views0likes0CommentsRe: 5th Wheel Hitch - Underbed Mount or Not?
I do not want rails in my bed when the camping season ends. With my F-250 I installed the Reese Elite underbed system paired with their Slider fiver hitch. When the fiver hitch is removed, there are 4 holes left in the bed but these are nicely covered over with 4 rubber plugs that come with the Elite system. This month I traded in my truck for a new F-350. I had a body place remove the Elite Underbed hitch and transfer it to the new truck. In the process, they drilled 4 new holes in the new truck and permanently filled the 4 holes in the old truck. They also swapped over my Roll-X bed cover to the new truck- total cost for everything was only $250. The Elite Reese system can be factory ordered with a new truck too. The system costs more than one with support bars permanently installed in the truck bed. It sure is nice having that clean uncluttered space when one needs to carry other types of cargo.416Views0likes0CommentsRe: I have a TOW VEHICLE headache.
Hello Headache Guy; I just made a decision on the same subject. My new F-350 diesel CC SRW will be built in the next few days. I am trading in an 18 month old F-250 CC 6.2 L gas model. My 33 ft. fiver which weighs a couple of thousand pounds less than yours needed more power when being towed up a long grade. I prefer not to have a dually unless absolutely needed due to maneuverability issues. Your heavier fiver may be be best with a dually? Good Luck.371Views0likes0Comments
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