All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Valid air ride system tag axel pressure regulator plumbingI dont know anything about your coach. You should have a supply tank, that is separate from the primary and secondary brake tanks. If you pull from the supply side, you already have the benefit of the existing PPV You should be able to use the same air feed that is used for the rest of the leveling systemRe: do fluids do any harm when left in too long?I would be most cocerned about the tires. I strongly believe sitting tires is a major cause of tire problems on class a rigsRe: Air Bag CostOP is reading brake tank pressure. PPV will stop air from leaving brake tanks right at 65 psi.Re: Title manufacturer / model VIN financing issuesLook for vin assigned by r vision. Look on the namplate that lists axle weights.Re: GAS PUSHERPhysics issue. Gas engines produce way more reject heat the diesels. Harder to keep in cool in the rear. Do some research on FMC motorhomesRe: Difficulty timing a 1995 Chevy 454ciOutcome?Re: Difficulty timing a 1995 Chevy 454ciI commend you on two fronts. One, it is becoming a rarer breed to try to fix things as opposed to calling in the cavalry. And your labor of love of doing it for a relative takes that to a new level. Second, I commend you on the way you handle input on the interweb. Not everyone is open to input despite asking for it. Good job on both fronts. Short of pulling the timing chain cover and looking at the marks, there is one quick thing you could do just for giggles. It is obvious that the engine is firing early before the intake valve closes. Would you be willing to time the distributor (with the ECM connector removed) to the big indent in the timing marks instead of the mark you read to be 4? I don’t think that will make that much difference, but it’s worth a data point to see what happens when you reduce the advance on the initial timing. I have seen some reference material that indicates the big notch is the one to use. Keeping in mind your engine and the engine in the reference sources may be slightly different. If it does reduce the popping and allows the engine to rev more freely then you will at least know you are moving in the right direction. I understand about the parts cannon logic, my perspective was to reduce the confounding factors in the problem solving. Yeah, that’s a bit far for a play date, since we leave in 2 weeks for a 6 month trip to Alaska. Better stay here and focus on HER list to keep the peace.Re: Difficulty timing a 1995 Chevy 454ciI just have to say there is no ill intent on my part. But I am pretty sure this is a different read for the people reading than it is for the poster. When you hear hoofbeats, think horses not zebras. All signs point to a timing issue. You can continue to throw money at it, but until the timing is addressed, it is just a frustrating exercise. Continuing to throw parts at it only increases the odds of some issue arising with the new parts to compound the problem. Second. Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, but expecting a different outcome the next time. Point being, you set the timing to 4 BTDC with the timing connector disconnected, and it sort of runs. Then you connect the timing connector, and it falls flat. Meaning there could be something in your application of the setup routine that is causing this, and therefore the symptom keeps repeating itself. It is popping back through the TBI. Meaning the timing is too early for the position of the valves. I can think of two possibilities that would explain this. One, is the correct mark for 4BTDC being used on the harmonic when you set the original timing? There are four marks on that harmonic. Are you using the big indented mark or a mark 3 notches over from that one? This also could be the whole basis of the distributor being off. Are you 100% percent certain the piston is at TCD when putting the distributor in, or are you using that timing mark as the indicator that the engine is at TDC. After all you keep mentioning the harmonic slipping on the crank. That simply does not happen with shearing the key. Second, the engine has jumped time and the valves are no longer in time with the piston. This very much will cause poor ignition and popping because the valve is opened when the engine fires. As you mentioned earlier, pull the valve cover and watch the valve train actuation as the engine is barred over. Also, a compression test would tell you somewhat if the engine were out of time. I am not criticizing you, please don’t read it that way. There is benefit in having a third party looking over your shoulder to identify what may be going on. I think you are in Florida from your profile. Where? If you are close, and I live in Inverness, would you be open to on site help?Re: Difficulty timing a 1995 Chevy 454ciI think pulling the valve covers is an excellent idea, looking for proper valve actuation is you rotate through the four strokes. You can also video that with the spark tester in the shotRe: Difficulty timing a 1995 Chevy 454ciThere are also two other possibilities that you should diagnose before throwing more money at guesses. One, is it possible the engine has jumped time? As best I remember that engine has a timing chain. Second it is possible to install the distributor 180 out which will produce the results you are getting. A trick for ensuring tdc is to screw a compression test hose in the spark plug hole, but instead of a gauge run the hose into a cup of water. When you reach tdc it will stop bubbling
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Aug 08, 201613,488 Posts