DiverDan80
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First-Time 2009 Northstar 850 Owner with electrical issues
Hello again! I took a few key individuals advice and purchased a beautiful 2009 Northstar 850 XB popup truck camper...and we love it!! BUT...now I am having electrical issues. **A few disclosures: I am a first time Camper/Trailer/RV/etc. owner. Also, the guy I bought the camper from is prior military and now a cop, and I am prior military and now a cop; he was also aware that my wife and I knew his police chief personally. Doesn't mean I didn't get scammed, but it does lessen the likelihood IMO.** Hears the timeline: -While looking at the trailer before purchase, everything was powered on and working, using either propane (3-way Dometic fridge, water heater, stove) or 15 AMP shore power (lights, water pump, fantastic fan, Atwood furnace, etc.). When it came time to show us the furnace, the heater wouldn't light...just kept blowing cold air. Got $300 off the camper price due to this. The guy said he had it running just a few hours earlier - Two weeks after purchase, I had a mobile RV repairman come by to fix the heater...and while running on battery/solar power, he could not get the furnace NOT to work! Hot air, quick starts, and firing up every time (still go charged for $140 housecall LOL) -Later in the day, I hooked up the camper to my 15 AMP house power (normal extension cord, normal outlet) and the heater went back to NOT lighting. Furnace would turn 'on' with thermostat, the fan would blow...but no heat. Finally put two and two together and figured out it was the house power that was the variable in the equation. *NOTE: the volt meter was reading 14 volts while plugged in, it always read 12 volts when running off of solar) -I kept the house power plugged in while I cleaned the camper; then when I tried to test the fridge on battery and 15 AMP, but it wouldn't turn on/get cold (but still worked perfectly on propane) -Went outside and unplugged the camper from the 15 AMP(did not turn everything off first), and heard a 2 second electric 'beep' from inside the camper. Retested Fridge and heater on battery power; heater worked fine, fridge still only worked on propane. Everything else still working. I then plugged the camper back in to 15 AMP, turned off all electrical equipment (left propane appliances on) and left camper plugged in overnight -The next day, when I unplugged the camper from 15 AMP house power, the battery system wasn't working AT ALL; no volts registered, lights wouldn't even turn on, nothing. Dead. The solar charging system still appears to be working (charging lights are on. I have checked/reset all fuses/breakers, left the camper plugged in to recharge the battery, but to no avail. Dead end. Sorry...I tried to simply it as mush as possible. So PU/TC experts, did I blow the inverter? Blow the solar system somehow? I am kinda going crazy right now...just spent a bunch of money on a camper and can't seem to figure out the darn electrical system. I just know I am missing something and/or did something stupid. Thanks! Dan1.5KViews0likes2CommentsRe: Question: Pop-Up vs Hard-side TC's (firsthand experience?)
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Very informative everybody. After much research, and consulting the wife, we have decided to go with a PU WITH a toilet & shower. The wife even said she is OK with me spending MORE $$ to get exactly what we want :) Needs to be less than, or right around, 2K dry weight...and I know I may have a road trip from CA to find one. Now...Is there any consensus as to which 'larger' PU is the highest-quality/best made/longest lasting? I am looking to buy used and pay less than 15K cash (I still have some mods to do on the truck). Here is what I have so far based on my research of stats and opinion: - Palomino: Great on price, low on quality. Campers start breaking down quickly, but generally accepted as OK for an 'intro' PU/TC camper. Older Palomino's (up to 2011) better built than current PU's ($9K-$17K New, $4K-$6K Used) - Jayco: (do they even make these any more?) Cheaper than Northstar, but higher quality than Palomino...harder to find with toilet & shower ($3.5K-$7K Used) - Northstart: Decent quality, decent price, not quit as nice or well thought out as Outfitters, but much better than Palomino ($21K-$25K New, $8K-$13K Used) - Alaskan: The classic 'Cadillac' PU camper, great campers, long lasting, high quality/value, hold there value, and hell on the wallet, even when used. Camper heaver than other PU's, due to it not being a 'soft-side'. Also less options than some (no indoor shower, etc.) ($27K-$30K New, $19K-$25K Used) - Four Wheel: Surprisingly lightweight and compact/low-profile, these PU's are designed for taking off-road while still having most PU options available. Unfortunately, these PU as so compact that storage / cooking / living space is even more limited that other PU's. High-quality construction means these PU's hold there value ($18K-$28K New, hard to find used) - Outfitter: High quality, and higher price than most. Quality campers that can withstand some real camping ($28K-$38K New, $9K-$14K Used) - Hallmark: High quality, high priced lightweight campers. Well thought out. ($33K-$40K New, $14K-$17K Used) Thanks!431Views0likes0CommentsQuestion: Pop-Up vs Hard-side TC's (firsthand experience?)
First off, I want to thank everyone for responding to my first/last post! Now a new question for all you TC gurus! A little background: I have a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty 7.3 XLT 4x4 longbed (non-dually), with stock heavy duty helper springs; am in the process of upgrading my tires for firmer side walls, adding full Stable Load kit, adding Rear Sway bar & replacing front stock sway bar both with Hellwig's Bigwigs, and getting Sumo Springs. My aim is to get get a 'light' camper, preferably w/ toilet & shower (even if the shower is just an outside shower), weighing at no more than 2,000 LBS dry, 3,000 loaded. That will enable my wife an I to be semi-adventures (i.e, not a pavement-king) and still tow my zodiac dive boat. Hard-side (HS) VS Pop-Up (PU) TC's Pros and Cons (?) First, I am getting the feeling that this debate has all the emotions and passions of 'Chevy VS Ford' or "R VS D', but please limit this forum for those with First-Hand Experience hauling/using BOTH. HS'ers often make comments like, "It's just a tent in the back of your truck!" (Ummm I don't have a heater, refer, stove/oven, AND bathroom in my tent!) and PU'ers say, "Why would ANYONE NOT own a pop-up??". My observations (as I try to decide between a HS & PU) are: Hard-Sides (HS) -Stay Warmer/Cooler -Heavier Dry Weight (generally) -More 'Top Heavy', w/ more Sway/roll issues, etc. -Less Versatile (for off road/non-campground camping) -Usually Cheaper to Buy Used than PU's -More 'Standard' Creature Comforts -Quieter Inside and Easier to 'Stealth' Camp/rest/eat/etc. Pop-Ups (PU) -Better for Gas Mileage -Lighter Dry Weight, Lower Center of Gravity & Lower Profile -Get Colder/Hotter Quicker -Can be Obtained with all the 'Comforts' of HS, however w/weights approaching small HS's -Are Harder to Find and are More Expensive to Buy Used than HS -Easier to Drive and Store -More of the 'Real Camping' Experience (i.e., closer to nature) Thanks!22KViews0likes65CommentsRe: Help! New to Truck-camper Camping
Thank you everybody for your help! I have decided to -Upgraded my tires for firmer side walls -Keep stock overloads and add Stable Load kit (full) -Add Rear Sway bar, and replace stock front sway bar both with Hellwig's (Bigwig) -Replace stock 'bumpers' with Sumo Springs -Get a 'light' popup camper (<2,000 LBS dry, 3,000 loaded, true weights) Just one last question before I go (if anyone is still visiting this forum): Does that mean that MOST of the F250's I see rolling down the road with huge campers with multiple pop outs, towing a boat, have done crazy modifications to their truck to allow for this weight and are nevertheless VERY overloaded/dangerous? Thanks again guys! Dan476Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help! New to Truck-camper Camping
Thank you for all the help/responses! More info & photos of the truck suspension: Tires: Kelly Safari load range 'E' with a max load of 3,415 LBS. Shocks: PB Monroe Reflex shocks (front & rear) Pics of shocks & overloads (hope this works) Front ***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***. Rear ***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.***Link Removed*** ***Link Removed***.285Views0likes0Comments
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