All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Lighter weight power cord Cummins12V98 wrote: fj12ryder wrote: C'mon, these 50 amp cords aren't that bad. Unless you have disability problems it's just not that big of a deal. I'm 74 and getting it out of the truck, coiling and uncoiling, and plugging isn't enough to really stress anyone out. Sounds like you guys need to eat a bigger bowl of Wheaties. :) The meaning of a "Manyl Man" right there folks!!! :BRe: 2022 Salem destination rv has no 12v batteriesI had no idea what a "Destination Trailer) was, so I investigated and came up with this: So What Is A Destination Trailer? Destination Trailers are the original tiny home. With the current cultural explosion that is the tiny home movement, the Destination Trailer can proudly say that they did it first. Destinations tend to have some of the highest quality amenities of any type of RV, including full sized washers/dryers, residential refrigerators, and a plethora of other options that are more typical of a home than a travel trailer. The Destination Trailer has been known by many names, including park model, cabin, villa, residential trailer, resort trailer and more… ( note, park models are technically different than destination trailers but the two are commonly interchanged sometimes incorrectly) … But no matter what you call it, the destination trailer is a true home away from home. While most travel trailers are meant for life on the go, the destination trailer is meant to be stationary for months at a time. The destination trailer is a perfect option for long term campers. Those who want to find a spot, and settle down for a while before hitting the road again for a new season. Something that sets the destination trailer apart from its true park model counterpart, is the fact that the destination is self contained. Meaning that they have holding tanks, grey water, and black water tanks and can be hooked to campground hookups if needed. Whereas the traditional park model does not contain these aspects and must be hooked to a residential sewer system.Re: Lighter weight power cordMost factory cords are a type of plastic cover that works but is thicker and heavier than rubber cord. I changed mine to rubber cord and it is a big improvement.Re: How to repair front trim/stripped holes on trailer? Blacklane wrote: If you have to fix cracked or broken wood for screws to hold, consider using wood epoxy, such as JB Weld wood repair. It bonds well, can be drilled and screwed, and is weather resistant. X2Re: Furnace won’t lightI think our OP has left the building.Re: Inverter UpgradeToo bad you didn't just upgrade to an inverter that was also a charger (converter). Two birds with one stone. I agree with Bruce Brown, that you should maybe upgrade to a 3000 watt inverter so that you can for sure use the microwave. It would involve some wiring, but there are many on here who could help.Re: Furnace won’t lightWhat make, and model is it? If Atwood, they have a regular problem where the electronic circuit board gets mild corrosion on the board connections where the multi-conductor plug is plugged in. I pull the plug, and clean the tabs on the board with a pencil eraser. That usually fixes it. What others suggested also, particularly mud in the vent pipe. One other suggestion is the green ground wire may be corroded where the screw is. Loosen it and re-tighten it. That is a common problem after setting also.Re: Foggy windows help please Bruce Brown wrote: 4x4van wrote: Bruce Brown wrote: ^^^ I certainly wouldn't do it that way. Remember, somebody installed it once so it can be done again. What you're describing sounds exactly like ours was, the one removed shown above. It wasn't any harder to do than the others. The only thing on that one was the weight. It wasn't terrible, you just needed an extra set of hands. I ended up doing one of the small windows in one slide end - believe it or not that one was the hardest to disassemble. I watched the video of the DIY repair... Sorry, but mine are much more complicated. The passenger side top pane is above the large slider. The driver side is above the front A-pillar window (also fogged) AND above the driver's door. Many of the repaired windows, even those done by pros rather than DIYers, end up fogging again a year or so down the road. I also don't want to mess with window frames that don't currently leak by removing the entire frame and re-installing/re-sealing. I'm still trying to determine what the downside of my plan would be? Can you get a picture of yours? Yours sounds a little different, however most Class A are something like this; That one is ours, shown out in an earlier post, now back in. Sure there was more to it than the others but it still wasn't hard, not by a long stretch. As to the downside of your plan, my thoughts are... Tempered glass doesn't break easy Tempered glass doesn't break clean The panes fit within a frame. Even if you could get it to break clean and easy, you would still need to get within the frame to install the new one. You also risk breaking both windows if you happen to hit the inside one a little harder than you planned. Whenever I'm tackling a job like this, something I've never done before, I remind myself someone else did it before me. They're not necessarily smarter than I am, they just have more experience - and they only way I'll ever gain any experience is to do it myself. So far that's worked out fairly well. Well said Mr. Moderator!Re: Solar chargerWas it a real bright sunny day?Re: Water pump/filter location 1995brave wrote: I have a 2018 Phantom 25T and mine is located under the bed next to the fresh water tank. Ditto for our friends Coachmen RV Leprechaun
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts