Passage0ftime
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Re: Leveling for Towing???
"Dealer set it up pretty nose high despite claiming it was okay and telling me that it would level out with so weight in it." I don't want to impugn the good dealers and mechanics out there, but this sounds like a weak answer giving him/her an easy out on an issue. I get a little leery when I hear a salesman say "it will be fine IF." or it doesn't look all that bad." How much effort did he put into leveling it? Had your check cleared before he said that? To be fair, he may very well have done the best he could without some major mods. I have heard some say that the 2018 Rams sit higher that the stock suspension of previous years. I believe they also come with dashboard controls that the driver can use to adjust ride height, ostensibly to increase ground clearance when needed, and "active four corner leveling", which may be their catch phrase for the adjustable height. You did state your suspension is stock, but consider these issues before making expensive mods to the RV. Just a suggestion. Everyone is talking about adjusting the trailer. That may be trying to fix the wrong issue.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: Where are you today?
sch911 wrote: Here you go, Post the URL directly to the picture (jpg) file. Thanks sch, Thats what I get for trying to post from my phone! I should probably be home too, been out at least a couple days every other week. We do weekdays to cut down on the crowds. Lately I think maybe for the first time in many years my personal life is interfering in my professional life. I might try to get used to the feeling. Happy travels to those on the road, and pleasant dreams to those wanting to be on the road!406Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dual rear wheel or single rear wheel?
Opinion from another newbie? I never owned and RV before last Spring. Pulled my daughter horse trailer with an '05 1500 Silverado short bed, step side WT. Never comfortable. Kept it and bought a 2012 1500 crew cab with a 5L, also in a WT configuration, don't care for buttons and bells. Night and day difference. Fast forward to last Spring, bought a Greywolf TT 30' and pulled it w/ the 1500, I traded in the fall for a 5'er. Pulled ok, right at the trucks limit weight wise, back to the days of the step-side. It was about 9500# wet. Bit of white knuckle, anxiety on hills and in the wind. Then I got a shot at a DRW 3500 Silverado with the 8.1 gasser engine and Allison 6 speed.. Way over powered for the trailer, sucks for daily driver, but towing is a breeze, and makes it all worthwhile. As the man said, there are times when having a bigger hammer just feels better.355Views0likes0CommentsRe: Andersen Aluminum GN vs rail version
We purchased a used TV that came with a B&W rollover hitch. Used a Curt X5 adapter and Curt 16K. TV is a '06 Silverado 3500 with a 8.1 gas engine. Have pulled a little bit with the combo (taking the Rocky to have it serviced) and seems strong. Will be taking first week long trip beginning Monday. Let you know how it goes! BTW I bought the Hitch from e-trailer.com. Fed Ex dropped the box and dumped the parts into a generic box, bending a key piece. The folks at e-trailer were great to work with, I had a replacement in 2 days. I bought the adapter locally and lost about $100 vs ordering on line. :( Lessons learned.485Views0likes0CommentsRe: Your Rig
"I have an '01 8.1/Allison combo in a crew cab and love it. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have mine. It's main duty these days is pulling car trailers and tractors. One thing about your pic. Check your clearances often as a buddy of mine just cracked the nose of his fiver with the bed rails you have on yours. Plus, he bent one of them badly. Enjoy your new truck and happy camping!! " I was worried about that too. They seem to clear well but thanks for the head's up. I was ready to take them off the first day I hooked up. Not married to them. I have not checked to see if flex when crossing uneven spaces might become a problem. Just thought of that. And yes, I love the TV already. I pulled my daughters 2 horse with it yesterday. Like there was nothing there!416Views0likes0CommentsRe: Your Rig
Time to get the rig prepped and ready for the season. Have multiple trips planned and need to de-winterize and prep the Rocky, and get the TV double checked. Pulling my Rockwood 2650 WS that we picked up in the Fall. Few trips and we love it! My1500 Silverado left me feeling a little underpowered, so in January I found an '06 Silverado 3500 with the 8.1 gasser and Allison transmission. Dropped the Rocky at the dealer for servicing and prepping, dropped the TV (affectionally named by my daughters as "Big Black Chevy" which, while a little edgy is legit since I own two other Silverado's, both red Big Red and Little Red) for transmission fluid change, filters and basic LOF and brake check. All will come together soon for a trip in a week or so to Tablerock! Can't wait!418Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gooseneck to 5th wheel adapters
LIKE2BUILD wrote: Passage0ftime wrote: I purchased a truck with a B&W turn over ball ...the shop told me that it could not be done without completely removing the B&W hitch first. They sold me a Curt adapter plate ....I have a Rockwood 2650WS with a Reese Revolution pin box. Along with the adapter plate I purchased a fairly simple Curt hitch (not a slider) Now I read on a Reese site that the revolution is not compatible with B&W gooseneck adapter plates. I think you went to a shop that either isn't familiar with B&W hitches or they simply carry other brands and wanted to sell you what they had. You should have been able to purchase a B&W 5th wheel companion that would have worked just fine with the gooseneck in your truck and hte Reese Revolution pin box on your 5er. The other option is to replace your pin box with a Reese Goose Box. This is a Lipert frame approved and will let you connect your 5er directly to the gooseneck ball without a 5th wheel hitch. KJ The set up he is describing will work. I purchased the new TV (new to me) that had a B&W roll over gooseneck hitch ball. The Curt X-5 adapter plate drops right in and a simple 5th wheel hitch, no slider sits right into the standard rails on the adapter. BUT here is the other side. I also have the Revolution pin box. I called the folks at Reese and spoke with them about this. It will work fine, but you need to disable the "Revolution" option, you do NOT have to buy a new pin box. The locking plate that holds the kingpin from moving must be removed. Then take the two spare bolts that were used when the trailer was shipped. They should be directly under the attachment point to the trailer. Not hard to see. Two big 21 mm bolts if I recall. They are obvious as they do not connect any two parts together, just bolted into plate to keep if you need to disable the rear pivot point. Use them to lock the pin box from rotating up at the top end of the pin box. What you end up with is a free moving kingpin at the the wheel plate and solid, immobile anchor to the trailer. You lose the rotation function of the revolution, but much cheaper than buying a new pin box.935Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heavy Duty Brakes?
Thanks for the great responses. I do like the Allison and it automatic grade braking feature. I have tested that using the toe haul mode and found it impressive. Will a bit over 100K on the original pads, I will ask to have them checked. I had not considered replacing the brake fluid, I will add that to the list. Sounds like OEM will be the way to go.142Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heavy Duty Brakes?
Turtle n Peeps wrote: I don't know what you mean by heavy duty? Brakes for different applications do different things. I can put street brakes on my race car but they would not do a very good job. I can put race car brakes on my street car but again, they would not do a very good job. The best brakes have to do a balanced job. They have to do a good job in many areas. If you have brakes do a great job in one area you don't have very good brakes. Another thing. All OEM brakes are programed into their ECM for the type of pad material they have. IOW's it's best to stay with OEM material. All OEM do a great job with balancing their brakes for the job they need to do. My advice is to stick with that. For the sake of discussion, let's assume that the intended purpose if said brakes are to ensure the best performance when pulling a recreational vehicle (note this is not is racers-r-us forums but an RV forum) and it is unsurprising that OEM brakes do what they are expected to do. Define heavy duty? Really?? Consider managing steep and windy grades without overheating, and without fading. Like heavy loads, expected to handle additional heat buildup on long grades. Thanks for your condescending response to a legitimate question. For the most part I have found friendly and honest advice, not colored by some misdirected sense of superiority.142Views0likes0Comments
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