All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Caulk removalIt is possible that WD40 may leave an oily residue that could create a issue with the new caulk sticking. Would hate to have that after all the work that will be required to remove the old caulk. Am going to start with the heat gun, plastic tools, and a remover made for the job.Re: Caulk removalThanks guys. Will give both of those methods a try.Re: Caulk removalThat sounds like a good starting point. Have you used any of the removers? If so, do you have one that you would suggest? Thanks!Caulk removalIt is apparent that our toy hauler has seen it's fair share of the sun. A good portion of the caulking has dried out and hardened, while other sections have shrunk and pulled away from what it was intended to protect. There is quite a bit of coverage throughout this forum for the removal of silicone caulk, but none that references the removal of non-silicone/factory applied caulking. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? Our toy hauler is aluminum sided. Thanks in advance.Re: New camper home, pin box concerns,Had a Pullrite 16k Super 5th hitch installed yesterday, and brought home the used Dexter 7926 pinbox. With the use of two hydraulic jacks, various pieces of lumber, and a lot of muscle power, was able to get the pin box mounted on my own. Hooked the camper up this afternoon for the first time, and found that the combination allows for a full 90 degree turn without the camper striking the truck's cab, or the pin box hitting the bedrail. So, that was promising. There is also about 5 1/2" of bedrail to camper clearance with the hitch in it's lowest position. The storage compartment door on the camper easily clears the truck, but the tailgate (which is not mounted at this time) may not open fully. Will have to try it out tomorrow. During my very limited test drive, it was noted that the fuel economy seems decreased from the mileage that was obtained while hauling our truck camper. The camper may also be an inch or so high at the front nose, but will have to find a level area to know for sure.Re: New camper home, pin box concerns,That is 17" from the bolts and to the center of the king pin.Re: New camper home, pin box concerns,Have located a used pin box that is 17" from the outer row of attachment bolts on the kingpin. This will add about 8" and make the distance from the bumper to the camper about 16". If that is the case, it should do the trick. Will know this Thursday and advise. The next issue of course, will be the distance from the top of the bed rail to the camper. As was said earlier, will have to wait until the camper is actually hooked-up, and then go from there. Am hoping that the camper is not in a "missile launching" position. As to the tire/axle looking off-center. Because this truck has such a heavy duty suspension, there is an illusion that the axle is not centered in the wheel well. When the weight of the truck camper is on the truck, the axle settles-in where it should. Great observation though! Thanks to everyone, and will advise on Thursday.Re: New camper home, pin box concerns, Hoping that the two images are visible. They were taken while the king pin was an inch ahead of the rear axle. Looks tight to me. What do you think?Re: New camper home, pin box concerns,Thanks for all of the replies so far. Would like to post some images, but am unsure how to. Can someone assist me, or point me to the forum's directions on posting?Re: New camper home, pin box concerns,Here is what the original owner did. When he first bought the camper in '09, it was equipped with the stock pin box, and he had a long box truck. Everything worked fine at this point. Then, he switched-over to a short box pick-up, and the stock pin box struck the top of his bedrail. The bedrail is slightly higher than stock because it is equipped with a tonneau cover. He then equipped his truck with a slider hitch, and switched-over to the shorter Leland AF 7910 pin box. This configuration worked fine.
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