All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 80 amp converter and eu2000i Strange, I replied but now I see my post is gone.. Hmm, I'll try this again. Thanks Road-Runner. I had forgotten about gens being rated in VA's. Seems the 80A is just too much for my little Honda so I'll be ordering the 60A version. The good part is I'll save some money and have even less voltage drop. I'll just have to run it longer during those few times I have to recharge at a site or maybe invest in some solar. Thanks again, for the input, S 80 amp converter and eu2000i I'm putting together a 400A Lipo4 battery setup (4x100) and would like to charge it with a Progressive Dynamics PD9180AL converter, which I would occasionally run from my Honda eu2000i (1600W continuous) gen. PD lists the power draw as 1300 watts for this 80% efficient converter (impossible). I read where one guy said it drew well over 1800 watts at full power and his Honda couldn't power it. It's also suspicious to me that this converter has a 20A plug - why if it supposedly only draws 1300 watts? Realistically, this converter pulls close to 1500 watts and since it has a power factor of less than one, it could be more than 1600 watts. So my question is, has anyone successfully run a 80A converter (for any battery type) from their Honda eu2000i? I would like to hear from anyone here that has some insight or direct experience with this combination. Thanks, Scott SolvedRe: Electrical short!! Have you checked the GFCI's? Re: Ok to run shore power without battery? 144Grayling wrote: Ok. I checked the converter output this morning and it’s 13.2 VDC So it’s in float mode. Perfect.Re: Awning issueBe careful of how you mount it. There's blocking installed to support an awning from the factory. Sometimes there's a sticker to indicate where this is. You can't just run screws into luan paneling alone.Re: 2005 Safari Simba Hot Water heater 120 volt Electric Rhalium wrote: Got it fixed. It was a bad water heater element and bad 12 volt relay. Want to say more but this site says improper formatting, whatever that means. It means this site will never, ever fix that problem ;) Glad you got it fixed!Re: Ford 7.3 engine users? blt2ski wrote: ScottG wrote: Greene728 wrote: Michelle.S wrote: The addition of the Exhaust Brake was a major factor for me upgrading from my 2005 Duramax to a 2011 Duramax. In approx 30K miles the 2005 need new brake pads, while the 2011 was still on the EOM pads when traded with 115K on the clock. Sounds like operator error to me if your replacing brakes every 30k miles. My truck is only used for towing and I'm in the mountains a lot. I can see that kind of mileage if I didn't have an EB. I'll go with the driver or equal error. My 05 DW dmax went 140K miles before needing new pads all around. I was running around upwards of 16K gvw, and 25K gcw at times, mostly doing local stuff. Marty So you spend most your time going over Stevens and Snoqualmie with a heavy load, no EB and got 140K out of your brakes?Re: Ok to run shore power without battery? 144Grayling wrote: Thanks for all the information. The battery is a 12 volt lead acid RV deep cycle battery from Les Schwab. No reason to think it’s not what it says it is. As far as I know the only 12v functions in the trailer are lights, bathroom exhaust fan, radio and propane alarm. All those are fine on what’s coming out of the converter now: 12.9v No slide out, no hitch jack. Checking the panel it also has a few other 12v circuits that we don’t use ( dont need the water pump since we’re hooked up permanently, and the furnace, since we use electric heat instead of propane.) And it says the hood fan is 12v which I didn’t know. So everything we need is working fine off the converter and shore power. I don’t know why the converter was overcharging the battery to the point of boiling, but if it can go without a battery I really don’t need to care about it. I suspect that I killed the battery by leaving it outside uncharged over a couple of winters and that’s my bad. But, again, if I don’t need a battery in the system I’m ok. Still getting mixed opinions on that. With that information, you don't need a battery. Your WFCO converter will take care of everything you describe.Re: Ok to run shore power without battery?If your RV is sitting on a seasonal lot and never moves, you're fine without a battery. Having one will not change or improve anything. If you're towing or have slides that have to be moved in and out, you may need the battery for extra capacity but you don't need it to make the converter create clean power - at least not a converter from 2007.Re: Ford 7.3 engine users? Greene728 wrote: Michelle.S wrote: The addition of the Exhaust Brake was a major factor for me upgrading from my 2005 Duramax to a 2011 Duramax. In approx 30K miles the 2005 need new brake pads, while the 2011 was still on the EOM pads when traded with 115K on the clock. Sounds like operator error to me if your replacing brakes every 30k miles. My truck is only used for towing and I'm in the mountains a lot. I can see that kind of mileage if I didn't have an EB.
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