rattleNsmoke
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Re: Curt Q20 Jaws Operation
There are colored markings and mortised section on the round release rod that are clear indicators whether or not the jaws are locked and ready. I always do a visual from the rear of the truck just as a redundant system. The Curt, although made over seas, is assembled in the USA and a quality and HEAVY hitch for it's size. We've had ours for 4 seasons and well over 10,000 miles traveled with ZERO wear shown. The grease-able zerks help too.203Views0likes0CommentsRe: Camper Castor Wheels
R12RTee wrote: Dtank wrote: fj12ryder wrote: R12RTee wrote: The casters are the way to go. I had them on my 42 foot toy hauler and they were a great addition. The trailer is NOT suspended by the casters. At most they will take a small amount of weight from the campers tires but they definitely will not lift the tires from the ground. When determining where to mount them I place one end of a string at the rear wheel and the other end to the bumper area that will come in contact with the ground. The caster should be mounted so it is just below the string. This will minimize the weight the caster will have to support. Casters for trailers are not "small metal wheels". They are heavy duty metal with a polyurethane coating. An example can be seen at this site: Ultra Fab caster wheel How can you say the trailer will not be suspended by the casters? Unless you've seen the road, driveway, and the trailer you're just making assumptions. C'mon....it's not *HIS* driveway!!..:S However, certainly he would e-mail a check or money order for asphalt repair if his advice went bad.....wouldn't he??...:@ . If you don't know what you are talking about it's better to keep your mouth shut. I have had casters on a heavy camper and I know they work and do not carry much of the weight of the trailer. The casters take very little weight of the trailer on them when properly installed. No assumptions but facts. I have had them and I have used them on my asphalt driveway with a steep incline and there is no damage done. Have you you two used them or just making assumptions? Bingo. I agree with you 100% on them not doing any harm from experience. I have a 38ft 14K fiver that required 6" skid wheels to make my driveway and I'm glad i put them on. I had metal plates welded to the frame approx 2 ft from the rear cap and the wheels were bolted to the plate. There's no way in hell the skid wheels once making contact with my steep driveway are going to unload ALL the weight off the mains. The suspension just has way too much flex.395Views0likes0CommentsRe: Open Range vs Jayco Eagle
Dog Folks wrote: rattleNsmoke wrote: From what I understand, Jayco used to manufacture their own frames and now they purchase(like most others) from LCI (which have been problem prone, aka crappy build quality and skimpy weld points). If Jayco is using LCI frames it would be a moot point. To my knowledge the frame problem has been rectified in other brands and Jayco is requiring a higher spec frame from LCI than others. As Jayco now owns Open Range, It is my guess they will soon be using the same frames, if they are not doing so by now. That's interesting...but I sincerely doubt Lippert would run a separate assembly line for Jayco when all other MAJOR customers would have to their noted sub standard workmanship. There are plenty of posts in various message boards documenting weld and frame failures. It's horrifying. I'm not doubting that you may have read or heard something around a campfire, but I'm sure we would all be interested in seeing it documented in an LCI or Jayco brochure.635Views0likes0CommentsRe: Open Range vs Jayco Eagle
We owned a 1999 Jayco TT non-slideout. It was virtually trouble free. It was stick\aluminum skin construction and our family put MANY miles on it. I know the new ones are all changed and that may or not be for the better of the company. From what I understand, Jayco used to manufacture their own frames and now they purchase(like most others) from LCI (which have been problem prone, aka crappy build quality and skimpy weld points).197Views0likes0CommentsRe: Front cap
There's a lot of auto products out there, but a good marine\rv compound to remove oxidation works well. There's also plenty of waxes and sealers to help prevent further deterioration of gel coated fiberglass products in the marine isle of auto parts stores. I had several nasty brown drip marks down the front of my cap that only a medium cut compound and a good quality, multi speed orbital polisher could remove. It still took a lot of time and elbow grease.82Views0likes0CommentsRe: "Next Trailer" - all about the kitchen
We were in the same situation 4 years ago. We had a bunk house TT and the kids all got older and went off to college all over the country. We almost pulled the trigger on an Artic Fox 32 ft rear kitchen. Brand new leftover unit. I wasn't fast enuff on the draw and the dealer sold it within 3 days. Ended up with a real nice CC fiver although approaching 38ft long. It's a center kitchen and has TONS of living space but it prolly wouldn't fit into many State parks. Mike93Views0likes0Comments
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