All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Change tire size?@OP- Yikes. I just upgraded to Kumho Radial 857's and couldn't be happier. You'd also have to make sure your rims are rated for 65psi, but the trailer pulls SO much better now that the poor tires aren't at 95% capacity all the time. For additional value, they have a speed rating of 99mph (not that I would ever do that, but the headroom is comforting) and significantly more weight carrying capacity than most of us need. Get yourself a proper alignment, or even look at upgradin the axles. We went from Al-Ko 3500lb units to Dexter 6,000lb with upgraded springs and proper brass greaseable bushings. Going to 15's won't solve anything.Re: Storing your "stinky slinky"A side to side 6" square PVC fence post. Latched cap on both sides holds 2 hoses and the elbows.Re: Hitch ball greaseI was given a very stern talking to by the mgr of our parts dept when buying some stuff about grease on the ball. They stated unequivically that it will attract dirt and grime, and wear down the ball and receiver. I now go dry and have never had an iaaue, AND clean clothes.Re: Total lossYikes. Sometimes they have to sacrifice to keep you safe. Glad to hear you're OK.Re: 2015 Ram 1500 a Contender? Not. Calicajun wrote: Plus if you get the Air Ride, four point air bags, version the truck can tell if you carried more than the max cargo weight. I have a RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Laramie Limit and like everything about the truck except the cargo weight rating. I plan to add rear air shocks with coil helper springs in place of the factory shocks. That should increase the payload weight rating and keep the truck from receiving an overload cargo weight weight reading to the computer. My MPG in town is about 18-19 mpg and highway is 26.5 mpg. Unless you get your changes recertified by the Gov't, you can't change your payload rating. The truck may become more capable, but it will still be rated at whatever it left the factory with. There are more parts to the equation than springs and shocks, such as the rear axle and tires.Re: I want to install a 12V digital volt meterMomentary switch is what I would do as well. Then you have draw only when you want to check the voltage and minimize your parasitic draw. Alternatively, a battery disconnect switch may not be a bad idea for when in storage or between trips.Re: Ultra light TTWe LOVE our Passport Grand Touring ultra light 3220BHRe: Things to NOT Leave in Your Trailer for Winter Storage.The one-way valve for the black tank flush line. I just unscrew it and leave it in the bath. sink (right above where it gets installed)Re: HitchesNot sure how you came to group HA, PP and BO together? HA & PP are significantly more expensive, complicated and seemingly effective. BO has more in common with the Reese DC etc; choose your poison. If I had more available payload and $ to spar I might upgrade my Reese DC to a PP, but the cost of a new PP setup would cover my upgrade to a 3/4 ton too... If you enjoy tinkering and are hands-on, the Reese DC is a great setup. It takes some playing around to dial it in for your setup but is a great WD system.Re: Newbie- picking out first TT^ Great advice. Our 3220 (35.5' overall) is our first trailer and we wish we'd bought a little smaller. Weight (payload) is not the only factor; longer units have more side area which can be difficult for a half ton to keep under control, especially for us newbies. Keep in mind, some manufacturers get the tongue wight right- our dry & tongue weights were as advertised, with batteries and propane.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jul 16, 202544,042 Posts