batman99
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Re: Watts up Meter...
. If wanting an "always on - always display" volt meter, suggest - DM55-1 with American Plug - If wondering, I bought one of these items for my TT, plugged into standard USA outlet and it works great. It shows the 110/120 Volt level in digital format. Much easier to read than an AC volt meter with analog needle. Works for me…405Views0likes0CommentsRe: slide question
I've owed both. If given a choice between slide and without a slide, I'd go "without" a slide. That is correct. Without. Slides have flat roofs and over time, they leak. Slide have rubbers around their edges and over time, they leak. They also let critters into the main chassis box as well. Slides also have moving parts. Moving parts that break and bind. And many slides stop the ability to pull over, use the washroom or have a quick rest in bed on kitchen table, then continue to drive. To use the insides, the slide must be motored out. Slide trailers take more energy to heat and cool as well. I've own both and knowing what I know today, NO slide trailer is best for me. My next trailer will be without a slide.135Views0likes0CommentsRe: Options for black tank flushing?
wanderingbob wrote: Why do you feel the need for such a device ? Many of us have been RVing for twenty or thirty years with out one ! You are correct. I've never used 3rd party clean out tools either. And, never had problems with my many Black Water tank plugging up with too much sticky stuff. For some folks before winterizing, I read many times they fill black tank 1/3 full with clear water (garden hose down the toilet bowl hole), add 2 x large bags of ice and drive home. As they drive home, the ice cube rub the inner sides of the black tank and "clean its sides". And, help clean sensors as well. When they get home, they simply dump the melted ice / cold water inside their black tank. From a white board, this low cost clean out method should work. I've never done it myself but it should work - without modifying or cutting holes on the side of the factory black tank.458Views0likes0CommentsRe: Airlift 5000 airbags and WDH
Me thinks the posted Chev manual is wrong. As stated within Trailer Towing site (which is specialized in towing), the vehicle's air bags (air shocks) are deflated, WDH is then attached / adjusted. Then, if desired, air bags (or air shocks) are aired up - to give "suppliment" support. re: http://www.etrailer.com/question-9425.html If wondering, I've been doing this method for years. Again… Air Bags / Air shocks is for the Tow Vehicle's factory soft rear suspension. WHS is for the trailer tongue weight. And, both are adjusted (for confirmed weight distribution) within legal scales. .272Views0likes0CommentsRe: Airlift 5000 airbags and WDH
The air bags is for the Vehicle. The WDS (with properly rated bars) is for the Trailer's tongue weight. When adjustment, use the air bags lbs for the Tow Vehicle. When adjustment, use the WD System for the trailer. Simply follow the process - to get the TV & TT to the legal weight scales. Them, use the weight scale to make fine adjustments to the WD system. If wondering… If one buys a Vehicle that has factory air bags, its factory manual clearly states to adjust the trailer's WD System with NO air in the air bags. Over studying physics creates a headache. .272Views0likes0CommentsRe: Airlift 5000 airbags and WDH
If the air bags and WDH setup are improper, then YES. They will conflict with each other. Many people forget that Air Bags (or Timbrens), is to ONLY improve the Vehicle's rear suspension. WDH with proper bars and properly set links are for the Trailer's Tongue weight. From the white board physics "zone" view, both areas are completely different. And if used together improperly, they will conflict with each other. Here's how to set both air bags and WDH properly. With NO trailer connected, load the rear of the vehicle as if going on a normal camping trip. re: Kayak's on the roof, some peddle bikes, some fire wood, many by your tool box that contains a cooler and tools. Now, take for a drive. Again, drive with NO trailer connected. If the rear of a pickup feels like "mush", add another 5 lbs of air. Then, drive around again. Keep driving around and keep airing up 5 lbs intervals until the rear of the Vehicle looks and feels right. Once it's "perfect" (with NO trailer connected), write down the number of air lbs in the air bag. Could be 25. Could be 30. Each vehicle is different. Now, here comes the secret. Let most of the air out of air bags. Only leave 5 lbs in them. Connect Pickup to the Trailer and connect WDH as well. The rear of a pickup will go DOWN. This is normal. Keep adjusting the WDH until the connected trailer's "stance" looks good. Now, add previously recorded air back into the Vehicle's Air Bags. This will get your Tow Vehicle and Trailer to the scale. At the legal scales, adjust the WDH system until proper amount of weight is distributed across the Tow Vehicle. Record the air bags lbs. Record the WDH adjustment (like number of links or number of showing threads). Put this paper in your TV's glove box. Next time your load up Tow Vehicle and Trailer with similar loading, use the same adjustments. Remember Air Bags is to remove "mush" feeling in the rear of a loaded vehicle. WDH is for Trailer's tongue weight. Both can be used together - if set properly... This works for me…272Views0likes0CommentsRe: FW Westlake axle bearing size?
. Forgot to mention…. If one is replacing bearings/seals on existing axle, have a serious look at tire wear, tire condition and its leaf spring parts as well. If tires are wearing funny (which is a sign of bent axle or being over stressed), other parts are too rusty or one's "inner voice" kicks in, then seriously investigate the need for larger axle size as well. IMO, many trailers (big and small) are built with minimum axle size and minimum tire size ratings. For example, a 3,200 lbs axle under loaded PUP that weigh's 3,100 lbs. If your PUP needs more than bearings / seals maintenance, seriously consider upgrading to larger size axle as well. For example, replace existing 3,200 lbs axle with brand new 3,600 lbs axle (which is next size up) - for buffer on those double railway tracks / roads with extra deep bumps. If wondering, I just replaced the 2 x tires/rims under my boat. They were factory ST185/80R (C rating) and after lots of research, I replaced rum/rubber with ST185/80D ("D" rating) - which gives me 300 lbs "more" strength per tire. That's 600 lbs of extra "buffer" - for those double railway tracks and extra deep bump road abuse. If one's PUP also needs new rubber, do consider replacing with "next size up" rims/rubber as well. Another TIP: If your loaded PUPs weight is more than Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity, I'd recommend installing brakes under your attached PUP as well. In my region, trailer weight before needing brakes is 3,000 lbs. My mini-van's Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity (meaning, how much weight within its rear cago area) is 1,500 lbs. Each of my trailer's rated to pull more than 1,500 lbs NOW has brakes. By comparing BEFORE and AFTER braking power, I'm now a firm believer that braking laws in my region should be changed to 1,500+ lbs. Meaning, their comparison of before and after is a NO Contest comparison. Especially when trailer brakes are installed with STAR wiring design. Long mumblings short… If one's PUP is more than 1,500 lbs and attached TV's max cargo capacity is 1,500 lbs, then DO install brakes under the PUP as well. It's well worth it. Especially if replacing with much better axle at the same time. Hope this helps as well..293Views0likes0CommentsRe: FW Westlake axle bearing size?
. If you have a set of callipers, you can remove the bearing from the axle (spindle) and simply measure the spindle size. Another option is to remove the old bearing and seal, clean them up and take to a local store that sells trailering parts. Many of the stores will allow you to open packages and visually match the bearing (to the many different bearings / seals they have in stock). For a good calliper, surf: - Click Here - For pictures of spindle sizes, surf: - Click Here - For me, I usually remove the old parts, clean them up and visit my local auto/trailer parts store for visual match. Hope this helps…294Views0likes0CommentsRe: Lessons we've learned over the years
. Of all the different safety equipment of both Trailer and Tow Vehicle, I found the STAR wiring design is awesome I applied this STAR wiring design to all my trailers with electric brakes. IMO, STAR design should be minimum code on all trailers. Perhaps one day..210Views0likes0CommentsRe: Cleaning rubber roof with bleach
. Exactly what kind of roof? If solid fibreglass and one wants to get the tough stains out, then sure. One might want to use diluted bleach. For Fibreglass roofs, I'd recommend a much safer degreaser (bought at home hardware stores) and use some $1 store rubber gloves as well. For EDPM / TPO (rubber roofs), I'd use $1 store Spic&Span liquid and some good clean $1 store shop rags as well. Low cost, its safe on bare hands and best of all, no harsh chemicals on the rubber. If $1 store Spic&Span doesn't work for those really rough spots, then use Protect-All EDPM Rubber Roof cleaner. Its expensive but I find its great on those really tough roof stains. When using Spic&Span and some rags, simply Scrub on / Scrub off - while on one's hands/knees as if washing a kitchen floor the old fashion method. And when on all 4s, I wear soft padded knee pads as well - also available at the larger $1 stores. Do this in-depth cleaning 1 time per year - in the fall (after tree stains and summer time dirty rains. And if it needs cleaning in the spring (after winter storage), simply use Spic&Span with a large sponge on a long handle. re: Easy clean method - to get the light dust off / before it locks in during the summer months. This works for me….4.5KViews0likes0Comments
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