Starburst2
Explorer
Joined 21 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Norcold 1211 refer not cooling
I was hoping to get it working before I flew back home to Vancouver Canada but that will not happen now. I will have to revisit the problems when I fly back to get the coach and heard up into the Texas Hill country for the wild flower season which they claim will be superb this year. Thanks everyone for your feedback. Lloyd Paulson280Views0likes0CommentsRe: Norcold 1211 refer not cooling
Old-Biscuit wrote: Is it in a slide out? No Without the fans working it won't cool properly. That is for sure Even if it isn't in a slide out the fans need to work. [COLOR=]I tend to agree They are controlled by a snap disc t-stat clipped on fin of upper condenser. I note same on the wiring diagram but cannot see it. The t-stat turns them on at 130*F and off at 115F.....condenser tube temps. Also from what I have recently been told the cooling unit may have failed due to blockage. Blockage in tubing after the upper condenser will allow freezer to cool properly but not allow the food section to cool off. Norcold believes it is not the cooling unit Is there the same lack of cooling on electric and propane? I've only been on AC Temp set button pressed........flashes for 10 seconds means fridge has swapped to 'Backup Operating System' which maintains fridge in operation when the thermister has failed (or been disconnected). I assume this happened prior to you unplugging thermister??? Yes, it was one of the first things I noted Get those fans in outside compartment working (jumper out t-stat and see that they work). Then replace t-stat. I have not found the thermal switch yet nor can I see the fans and a splash of water. Wait a couple of minutes and check resistance via connector at light---two bottom slots. Resistance at 32*F should be 30,000-32,000 ohms) Replace thermister if test bad. I will preform that test. Thanks If after those repairs and food section still does not cool down the cooling unit has blockage. Which means cooling unit replacement What year is RV? [COLOR=]2013 Winnebago only 10 m0nths old280Views0likes0CommentsRe: Update Norcold 1201LRIM jumpered thermostatic switch
I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives????? Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration? I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago. Regards, Lloyd329Views0likes0CommentsRe: Update Norcold 1201LRIM jumpered thermostatic switch
I just posted with a similar problem. I did a search and it came up with 0 posts. Now I find this one with almost identical symptoms. What gives????? Doug Rainer states that the blockage is as hard as a weld. If so, how can this suddenly occur? My refer is in my new Winnebago Sightseer less than 10 months old. The refer has worked well since new. I bought it in Mesa AZ and the temps were over 100 outside and the fridge worked great but it did not stand up to the Texas RGV temps in the 90's only a few months later. Is this an indication of poor quality on Norcold's part or is it an aberration? I would appreciate your comments as well Doug. I just posted about a half hour ago. Regards, Lloyd292Views0likes0CommentsNorcold 1211 refer not cooling
I know there are experts on here who will probably have experienced this problem and fixed it. A couple of days ago I came home and the ice cream in the freezer was soft. Right away I realized something was wrong. At that time I also noticed that the fans were not running. They run continuously since new so I know there may be something to do with that as well. I have had the mobile service tech out and he has checked most of the apparatus but has not come up with the solution. The heating elements are heating, there is 12 VDC to the board, there is 12VDC going into and coming out of the safety gizmo beside the board and the led on the safety gizmo is not lit which the tech said meant it was okay. The temp set button, when pressed, flashes for 10 seconds which the manual says only that it indicates a fault that is not owner serviceable. Since the problem was first found, the fans came on for a short period of time but went out again. After being set at the coldest setting, 9, the two top freezing compartments have cooled down to 3F and 4F degrees but the cabinet is still near 50F. At the techs suggestion I have unplugged the thermistor to see if this makes a difference. So far it has not. Filling the bottom shelf of the cabinet with dry ice provides some cooling but I need a proper fix. I'm in the Texas Rio Grande Valley experiencing 90 degree temps so solving this is paramount. Any thoughts on his a agonizing problem? Thanking you in advance for your feedback. Lloyd1.5KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Mixing AGM and Flooded Cell Batteries
BFL 13 In your last message you say that l have a lot of options for expanding my battery bank capacity. One of the options you mentioned is to add two 6 volt golf cart batts to my present bank of two SCS 225 12 volt Trojans. That piqued my interest because I had read on this website that you need to have all batteries the same. Did I understand you correctly? Here again, am I taking too narrow of an interpretaion of this rule? The other thing is that in the long run I think that a bank of 4x 6volts is more robust than 4x12volts so I would see that as migrating towards the goal rather than alongside. Just got a quote from the Trojan battery dealer in Yuma. For the 12 volt SCS 225 group 27 deep cycles they want S200 plus $17 tax plus core charge of $15 each. For that amount I can get four golfcarts from Sams or Costco with cash left over. Is this the no brainer I think it is? Lloyd374Views0likes0CommentsRe: Mixing AGM and Flooded Cell Batteries
Thanks everyone for your feedback and advice. Wow, that is a lot of information from which to develope my planned battery bank upgrade. Since I do not always tow my toad it seems prudent to keep the two systems isolated. The next decision is whether the chassis battery needs to be an AGM. Because there are some electronic components, slideout controllers, in the small compartment; I conclude that a non venting type of battery should be the choice for the chassis battery. What I am not certain about is whether the standard maintenance free battery can be safely contained in the same compartment. Do they give off hydrogen gas during charging? Nobody offered any compelling reasons why I should convert to 4 new 6 volt GC's. I had some lingering doubts in my mind about adding two new group 27 12 volt Trojan's to a 6 month old pair that are already installed. The two new Trojans will cost about the same as 4 new 6 volt GC's from Costco or Sams Club.so costwise it is a "push". My concern was coupling the older batteries with the two new ones. Am I being "anal" about this rule?375Views0likes0CommentsRe: Mixing AGM and Flooded Cell Batteries
BFL13, you raise an interesting scenario. Maybe I don'tneed the AGM chassis battery but I have no idea if 4 X6 volt GCs have enough CCA to start the Ford V10 in my 2013 Sightseer. Can anyone else answer that question? I am puzzled by the connection arrangements. Now the two systems are seperated from each other except when you manually deploy the interlock switch when a boost is needed. As it comes from the factory the two systems are isolated from each other. This protects the chassis circuits from the high voltages your inverter/charger puts out in the equalization mode. Is this an important issue or does it not matter? Another question that I should have raised originally is whether to abandon my very expensive, 6 month old, Trojan group 27 12 volt deep cycles rated at 130 AH each and replace them with 4 new 6 volt GC's or keep the two existing 12V group 27's and just add two more of the same to give me a total of 520 AH? The 6V golf carts hooked in series / parallel would give me 440 AH but is there a benefit, others than cost, that would suggest the 4x6V GC's over the 4x12V group 27's? Mr Wizard, you also have extensive experience in these matters so I would appreciate your opinion as well To be honest, I appreciate every ones opinion and wish to tnank you all for your feed back. Lloyd79Views0likes0Comments
Groups
