steiny93
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Joined 21 years ago
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Re: loading 5th wheel
totally agree on the king pin being evil In the MH world I have a different nemesis (side mirrors). I don't think I can count the number of times I leave my in-laws MH and take 3 steps out the door and around the front and whack! Full tilt impact into the side mirror.493Views0likes0CommentsRe: Plugged in or not?
"best practice" would be to unplug when not moving; rational being to prevent a draw from the trailer side from killing your truck battery or an over voltage scenario on the rv side from back feeding the truck and causing damage. shore power is providing a charge voltage to the rv batteries which doesn't harm your truck; now if that were to fail and you were to get say 110volt to the rv battery I don't think that would necessarily get back to the pickup but I wouldn't want to try it personally; my concern is around drawing voltage from the truck to the rv and being unable to start the truck; that is the scenario I'd worry about172Views0likes0CommentsRe: Which hitch?
I really like the B&W options (we have the turn-over ball on our farm trucks); but having an air hitch is really nice. I put an AirSafe on the HDT and it is very slick. On a pickup getting some cushion between the pickup and the 5er would be a plus. But the B&W is nice in that you have a clean bed when not pulling.308Views0likes0CommentsRe: How Big?
we just switched from a large toyhauler (one in my sig) to a similar sized frnt living space 5th wheel even for just a weekend the toyhauler felt cramped; being in the same footprint but all living space is a rock star deal I could easily full time in the rig we have now; in the toyhauler it would have been hyper painful my 2 pennies if you don't have to have the garage; keep the space for living371Views0likes0CommentsRe: adding mounting board to exterior of rv?
I think I have a plan going to go with something similar to a stern saver http://bassanglerhq.com/blog/gear/first-ever-glue-on-transducer-mount So 3M 5200 adhesive and some uhmw with a few drilled out cups to hold the adhesive. Then do stainless hardware through the uhmw from the backside to another block of uhmw which i'll go through the backside of to hold the light bars. Then if the light bars fail or need to be replaced or whatever and I can't get the same footprint I can just toss the top uhmw plate and start over.324Views0likes0CommentsRe: adding mounting board to exterior of rv?
Artum Snowbird wrote: You could get some ceramic magnets and glue those onto the wall with Sikaflex, and onto the base of the lights. Would not need very big ones at all. Then just clip the magnets together when you need the lights on the wall. that's a good idea but I'm looking for a permanent attach for the light bars324Views0likes0CommentsRe: adding mounting board to exterior of rv?
DrewE wrote: Epoxy will stick to fiberglass permanently; some sort of thickener would be helpful here to improve gap filling ability. Check whether it would adhere to whatever synthetic board you wish to attach if you use it, as not all epoxies stick to all plastics very well. For many of the LED lights I've seen, simple foam double-stick tape would be more than sufficient to hold them in place. There are different grades of such tape, some intended for exterior mounting of stuff. LEDs themselves are not heavy. I hear yah on the double-stick tape; the concern I have is that we will be using this in -40 degree temps and these fish houses get banged around a lot when being dragged around on ski's. I'm worried that when you have 50" light bars they will flex up and down on rough ice and between the cold and the movement could come free if only secured with tape.324Views0likes0Comments
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