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Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
And by all means install a CO detector in the enclosed space!!! I could only find a marine version that runs on 12V Co Detector with Generator shutdown. I suspect there are 120v equivalents. On further research this looks like a RV version that might work also PPL sells it but here is the Mfg site, CCI PPL sells it here354Views0likes0CommentsRe: Links to Traffic, Road Construction and Highway Conditions and Other Helpful Sites
Here is a valuable link. (I think) Wikipedia Interstate Highway reference The above link is just the starting point. Scroll down to the bottom and you will see a table of interstate links that will take you to detailed information on various interstate highways. Enjoy528Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
cmg3500 wrote: Does anyone know if the Power Pro,or any of the other clones have a cast Iron sleeve? Thanks I have one of the Jiangdong Nikotas. From the parts explode the "cylinder Assembly" is as far as they "disasemble" it for us. It looks like it is a cast aluminum block. If it has a cast iron liner it is part of the assembly and not replaceable. I doubt it has a liner but the only way to know is to disassemble it. I've been known to do this on occasion when something is still in warrantee :)but not this time.314Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: Looks just like a Jiang Dong unit to me. I seriously doubt Onan would copy the Asian design and then build it in the USA. My take is that if Onan is going to put their name on one of the Chinese gensets they must be pretty sure of their reliability and performance. To do otherwise would be distructive to a company with their reputation. Anyone know what the listed price for the 2200 is? Note the two year warrantee on the Onasn product PDF specs!329Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Hawklovers and my Nikota both have this note in the manual. "Should an overload occur the breaker will trip to it's off position causing the generator to automatically shut down..... then reset the curcuit breaker.... and restart the generator" You will note that the schematic has no indication how this happens. My uneducated guess was that there is a second set of contacts on each CB that opens or closes when the breaker trips and kills the ignition. However I looked at the photo in Hawklover's post and can not see a second set of contacts on the CBs. Any other ideas how they kill the engine or if in fact they do kill the engine?329Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: I was in our local Costco (Richmond, VA) today. They had two of the Nikota 3500 generators in stock. Both were the "old" model like the ones previously sold by Pep Boys. They did NOT have the switch to route full wattage to one outlet at 120 volts. The duplex outlet was split and the maximum current available on each was 13 amps. If the person who purchases these generators wants to run a RV AC or other high current 120 volt device, they will be very disappointed. If anyone intends to shop Costco for one of the newer Nikota Generators, please be sure you know what you are getting. Obviously, some of the "old stock" is out there too. Three things: 1. There are several different "new" Nikotas at Costco 2. Adding neutral to the 240V plug. 3. Governor mechanism 1. There are (at least)two "new" versions of the Nikotas. The first is pictured by Hawklover in his post of 12/09/05 a few pages back. His engine is dated in June/05. I just purchased one at the Burlington VT Costco which is similar to his with the following differences. Engine is dated in Oct05 (fast transit!!). The Control panel is on the side of the frame on mine and not on the generator end cap. I have two switches (on/off and 120/240)instead of a 120/off/240. Mine has a volt meter and Hawklover's does not. My schematic is identical except for the addition of a voltmeter between the blue & brown leads off the generator. The 120 outlet is not split on either mine or Hawklover's. In both cases there is a 13Amp CB in each 120v leg. Since they are in parallel when in 120v mode the combined output is limited to 26Amps. One concern I have is that should one breaker trip the other would continue to deliver output. However I assume that it would also quickly trip. I would prefer to have a duplex breaker that would take both sides down in the event one side tripped. 2. In both cases the 240 outlet has no neutral connection. Refer back to the schematic in Hawklover's append again. It looks to me that you could provide the neutral by adding a wire to one of the terminals on the 240v side of the voltage switch that are jumpered together by the brown wire. The other end of this wire would connect to the unused connection on the 240v plug. I have a situation (240V water pump with 120v controls) that fits with in the power budget and I'd like to know if this addition is both safe and workable. 3. I have studied the exceedingly small parts diagram to try to determine how the engine is governed. I saw some speculation earlier here that it was a fan and wind vane solution. It does not appear to be the case. There is a small geard riven by a gear on the crank shaft. Coaxial with the small gear shaft is a part labeled "slider[,] governor" and something called "Governor Assy" My educated guess is that the later is some form of a fly-ball or centrifical governor. I think this is a much more accurate mechanism than you'd get from the fan solution on lawn implements.329Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I just finished assembling the Nikota I picked up yesterday from Costco. It is different than the one pictured a few pages back by Hawklover. The control panel is on the side of the frame rather than on the End of the generator head. Duplex outlet, on/off switch, two push to reset breakers, ac volt meter, 120/240 selector switch and a ground post. Motor and literature shows Jiangdong as manufacturer. Schematic is identical to the one posted by Hawklover. Literature & box says it's distributed by American Power Products The only generator listed on their site is different than the Costco and is "Factor Refurbished". I think this is unlikely due to the logistics involved returning it to China. In fact everything on their site is refurbished so I suspect they distribute "firsts" thru Costco and others and sell the returns on their web site. The Costco one is not advertised as refurbished. I'll try for a picture tomorrow. Local Costco and one in Cincinnati had same model. Still $279.351Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: Some answers to questions about the output waveforms of these Chinese gensets were posted on one of my Comcast Web Sites many months back. (What? You have not read every post to know this!) If you want to see them click here Once on the site, click on "photos" I meant to ask (perhaps you already answered?) what you thought the reason was for the transient spikes on the high and low points were due to? These look like commutation spikes but there are no brushes or devices in the circuits that have been described that I can attribute this to. But Hey, I'm only a Mechanical Engineer :-)253Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Prof.: Please be careful about CO. Your installation looks to be quite close to the house and several windows. My concern would be that under certain wind conditions the corner of the house would be under positive pressure and any leaks would allow CO into the house. At the very least I'd recommend a CO detector inside the house near the generator. The other thought would be to extend the exhaust up and over the eve of the house by about 2 ft. I say this because we lost a neighbor to CO from a generator running outside his garage.422Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Google to the rescue. I searched on "CPVC glass transition temperature" and got this a short clip says: "Heat Resistance CPVC can withstand corrosive water at temperatures 40C to 50C greater than PVC, contributing to its popularity as a material for water piping systems in residential as well as commercial construction." also "CPVC is ideally suited for self-supporting constructions where temperatures up to 200°F (93°C) are present" Glass transition temperature is the point when plactic "noodles" to use the Professor's term :) So CPVC is at least 70deg F. better than PVC. Is that good enough? Don't know.303Views0likes0Comments
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