All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Adding front A/C - Need recommendationsSee what the power load really is. I added a 13.5k unit to our previous 5'er several years ago. It only pulled about 13 amps at full load, so I used a simple Marinco 15 amp plug in the outside wall and ran the wire from the vent in the bedroom over and down the wall to the hole cut in the wall for the plug. The vent area was very strong and the weight of the 13.5k unit was not excessive and we never had a problem with it. I recommend the 13.5 unit because you won't need extra heavy power to run it but it will help give your main unit a break on hot days you can cycle it off and let it defrost without getting too warm in the trailer. The other BIG thing to consider is that many parks only have 30 amp service allowing a 30 amp plug and another 15 amp plug on the post. You will likely be able to get away with a standard load on the 30 amp line running to the trailer and running the 2nd a/c on the other line, but be aware of your voltage (keep a voltmeter plugged in where you can monitor it or put an alarm sensor on a plug). I ran many many days over 90-100 degrees with both a/c's cranking away on 30 amp sites since I was using the second plug separate for the 15 amp plug running the 2nd a/c. It never shut down except the few times the whole area went down due to high surge loads. So- my .02 is to put in the 13.5k unit and run a 15 amp plug in the wall so you can hook up without a second 30 amp circuit.Re: Cold Weather Diesel Fuel AdditiveI have used Power Service since day one. I feel that the added lubricity with ULS diesel is important for fuel pumps and injectors. I also use the white bottle beginning in October and ending in April and the grey bottle in the summer. You never know what is in the fuel and a little extra water might be a big issue at 10 below zero. Howe's is a good product also, I have used it in heavy trucks before. Power Service has a "red 911" product also that is supposed to work AFTER gelling up, but I sure would not want to test it out on the side of the road in -10!Re: Price of new trucks way above the economic recovery rateEverything with a diesel engine has jumped ridiculously in the last few years due to EPA regulations requiring so much more equipment (R&D and materials to control emissions). DPF, DEF systems, etc, etc are not easy to design nor are the materials cheap or easy to build. I work with construction equipment. 2 years ago and new backhoe cost about $45k, last year $48k, this year $60k. A new dozer- 2 years ago $55k, last year $59k, this year $75k. A new 50,000 lb excavator- 2 years ago $135k, last year $140k, this year $165k. So new trucks going up from $40k to $55k in the last three or four years makes complete sense to me. DPF systems and DEF treatment costs a LOT of money and there is no one to thank for that more than our federal government EPA making the restrictions tighter and tighter (not that we don't need emissions standards, but they are the ones forcing the manufacturers to come up with "new" ideas).Re: cat litter or gravelPaying for a storage spot means paying for a reasonable access to that spot. I would expect the storage company to at LEAST put down rock and gravel in two strips for you to back in and drive out on. If not, find another storage space that is willing to provide a secure driving surface for you. Money talks.Re: Now towing with a HDT, why didn't I do this years agoI have a '74 GMC Astro cabover tractor with a Detroit 8v92 and 13 speed. I am seriously considering making it a single axle, stretching the frame, making it full air ride and after restoring it completely making it a "classic" HDT/ combo hauler. Whatcha think about that fellas?? It's been sitting for about 20 years and I am going to restore it (yes I am prepared and capable of the challenge), just the options of the final purpose are still up in the air. 1- Restore back to original for show quality and "classic look". 2- Restore and modify to make an excellent "hot rod" truck 3- Restore and modify as above to haul a small car on a deck and tow fifth wheel trailers and set up more as an RV functionRe: Towing a Car behind a 5th WheelIf you and the wife are deadlocked on the topic of her having her own vehicle or just feeling the need to have the car for "running around" instead of your truck then just let her drive it. My wife and I found that if we are going less than 100 miles one way it makes sense for her to drive her car and carry our son with her. I take the dogs with me and the trailer ahead of her and get unhooked and set up. This leaves her time to stop for groceries or whatever she does while I am rolling wheels and when they show up the trailer is ready to "live in" right away. The same when we leave but in reverse. She cleans up the trailer while I hang out and relax, then she heads out for home (or the next stop as would be in your case) and I get the trailer hooked up and on the road. While I would prefer if we ran together and we probably would if we did this on a longer trip just for security and in case of a breakdown it works well and since our son is just over 2 years old he is not much for the "wait for daddy to get the trailer set up before you can go in a get..... whatever"! Just a thought, I know it's more gas and wear and tear on another vehicle, but short of getting a motorhome and towing the car or using the truck as your regular vehicle that's about the only option.Re: What do we buy?That is generally the purpose of my extended post. To tell the OP to do it right the first time and save a LOT of money and shopping and frustration camping in something you don't like or struggling to tow it.Re: Battery advise neededCheck out Deka (East Penn Mfg) website. They are good batteries and have full specs on their batteries. GC-15 is their part number for a 6 volt "golf cart" battery that is used on a lot of electric equipment (scissor lifts and such) due to strong output down to very low voltage and strong recharge life. Putting in two sets of two batteries with a switchover would give great long use. That way you run on one set while the other is charging on your solar panel (a must for long term boondocking) and then when you get low, you can switch over to the charged pair and let the other pair charge with no load on them (the best way to charge is with no load). That's my recommendation if you plan to camp without shore or generator power. I personally use two group 27 12 volt batteries connected together because I never go without power, they are just reserve for lights, fridge and jacks when setting up, traveling, etc.Re: What do we buy?By the way, I had a 25' travel trailer with no slides and a F-150. Then I bought an F-250. Then I bought a 28' fifth wheel with one slide. And then a 3500 single wheel truck. Then we had to have the bigger trailer and bought a 35' triple slide rolling house. Yep, it was after several trips and a few uncomfortable moments that I made my 3500 into a dual wheel truck. I won't go back to a single wheel. 2500 or 3500 with or without airbags, single wheels is single tires. I like having the stability and security of the dual wheels on each side. Yeah, it cost some money to do those upgrades and we started with the first truck and trailer in 2002 and bought the last trailer in 2010. That's eight years and quite a few checks written to learn what we really wanted and then what we needed to tow it safely and comfortably.Re: What do we buy?Shop for the trailer you want. If it fits within real and common sense weight capacity for your truck, great. If not, buy the truck that it takes to make it right. That's it. You will not be happy if you buy a smaller trailer or cut out that bedroom slide to save hitch weight or go with a travel trailer if you want a 5'er and then it's all going to be frustrating. Just get the right trailer and THEN decide on the truck. Nothing says you have to even take the trailer home. Pick the trailer, heck even buy it, then take it to the scales and weigh your truck and the trailer. If you are not 100% sure, go buy a truck that makes you 100% sure. Even if that means limping home and then not moving the trailer again until you can get the truck done. Seriously, don't feel pressured, if the money is an issue then shop within your limits and that might mean some used gear instead of all new trailer and new truck!
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