eXodusRV
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Re: Front mounted diesels in class a and c
bluwtr49 wrote: From my perspective, if someone was interested in buying a diesel Class A....forget the class C or B, why would you want the engine in the front??? I just don't see any advantage and several downsides including losing space (??? do they have a doghouse or is the engine below the floor?) and noise. How is engine access on a FRED compared to a DP?? Depends how they are designed. FRED: On the same Length you loose some belly storage due to the fact that there is a drive-shaft from the engine to the rear axle. But you get huge storage in the back under the bed. On better designed FREDs you don't have a Dog house, the Engine is mounted low, you have 3 steps in the inside instead of two. Engine access is in both concepts PITA, in the rear you have to lift the bed. In FREDS you have to maybe pull the radiator to access everything. The Nice thing about Diesel Engines is, you normally don't have to do a lot to them in a normal MH lifespan. Change the Oil and the belts. That should be all.402Views0likes0Comments- 0Views0likes0Comments
Re: 30A vs 50A
jerseyjim wrote: EXODUSRV: Sure. I know what breakers are for....and if you trip them, something ain't right. Make all the adapters your want, jury rig all the wiring you want, but the bottom line is 30 amp does one a/c...and 50 does 2 a/cs' and one never has to worry about breakers or anything else. And the KEY words (yours) to back me up is "dangerously warm". No need to get even CLOSE to that using 2 a/cs with 50 amps. There are two reasons for a tripped breaker, number one, there is something wrong with the wiring or device, here you are right. The secondary reason a breaker trips is that you are using too much power. The breaker trips to prevent the wire from overheating. Electric supply companies are using gradually overloading wires since many years. The know that most wires are capable of transferring more power then rated when they got the chance to cool down in between. The same would be with two A/C Units they are only using a lot off energy while starting (less then 10 seconds) when they are running they don't need a lot. With the newer Energy efficient 9000 and 12000 BTU you could probably run even 3 Units of a 30A Service.565Views0likes0Comments- 0Views0likes0Comments
Re: 30A vs 50A
jerseyjim wrote: The only thing 50 AMP does (vs 30 amp) is let you run BOTH a/c units at the same time. Those that say they run 2 units on 30 amps at the same time, are taking a chance with electrical overload and that can equal a fire. Run both on 20AMP? Hope a fire extinguisher is nearby. IMO a definite recipe for disaster. Again...my opinion. I have no idea why any coach company would market a unit with 2 a/c units and give 30 amps. IMO (again) that is not only dangerous but stupid. But then, I've seen new units at RV shows with no electrical outlets in the kitchen! How dumb is that? You do know what breakers are for ? Do you ? In case you use more then 30A then the breaker trips and you will be there without power. It's like in your house, you've got probably 5-10 15A outlets wired to the same 20A breaker. How often due houses burn down because of installed wiring ? rarely ever. The wiring used for 30A is usually capable to supply double the amps for at least a couple of hours without getting dangerously warm. Most all RVs burn down because of defective cooling unit on Fridges.566Views0likes0CommentsRe: 30A vs 50A
It always depends on the Size of A/C Unit's how much you can run at the same time. I've got a 5000 BTU in the back and 13500 BTU in the Front and they do run of an 20A Outlet of my Garage. I can not start the Microwave or a Hairdryer, but everything else is running fine. An 13500 BTU sucks between 11 and 15 amps, A 15000 normally less since newer and more efficient. Depending on your unit sure you can run two A/Cs of an 30A Service.565Views0likes0CommentsRe: Steering Stabilizers
I've got the Safe-T-Plus, it is not helping at all, while towing a 18ft horse trailer, We've got way to less weight on the front axle. Without towing it is okay. Installing a thicker sway bar helped so much more. It's only about $200 and 8 screws. Installed in less then half an hour without any special tools. 1 1/2 instead of the original 1 1/4470Views0likes0CommentsRe: Running with air
The problem with the Dash A/C is, it's designed for the Cab of delivery Van. So it's not sufficient to cool a whole RV. Better(not newer) Class A and Class C have Curtain behind the driver area, which you can close while driving. After this fix the Dash A/C does a great Job. I didn't have this curtains, - just got a Tension loaded Shower-rod and installed a nice looking shower curtain. Cools my cab about 20 degrees lower then without. Living in sunny Florida.461Views0likes0CommentsRe: Front mounted diesels in class a and c
Maybe it's about education of RV Buyers, when they buy a Diesel they expect to get a pusher, when they buy a Gas expect to get a Front Engine. A Diesel at cruise speed is not louder then a Gas engine. Only at idle or full boost the diesel has is character.405Views0likes0CommentsRe: Leak on the roof...can I really do this myself?
If you are physical able and comfortable to get on the roof, it wouldn't hurt doing this every now and then. There are always ways, drive to a friends house who has a second story and take a look at your roof. There are RV self wash places which have scaffolds, where you can get up to pressure wash that roof. You can have knowledge about what's going on there and won't be surprised if suddenly something major appears.204Views0likes0Comments
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