All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: radio fuse keeps popping This is more than likely what it is. MH is in storage right now. I'll head out there and start tracing all of the power wires to the radio and back up camera module. weird thing is that one of the times it blew a fuse, I was stopped at a traffic light. Not like i was bouncing down the road. radio fuse keeps popping We own a 2018 Holiday rambler 35K on a Ford f53 chassis. The fuse to the radio/back up camera screen keeps blowing and I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what fixed it. Its the #17 mini fuse in the drivers side dash fuse box. Its labled "Body builder radio feed" and it is a 5A fuse. If I put a fresh 5A fuse in, I can turn on the radio and it works fine until I start the motorhome and drive for about 5 to 10 minutes, then it will blow. The last thing I tried was to completely remove the radio, replace the fuse and then drive the MH. It still blew doing this telling me it not the radio causing the short circuit. Any thoughts? Re: Replacing house batteries in our new motorhome with AGMUpdate: I went ahead and made my purchase. After more and more research on AGM batteries I became less and less impressed them. It seems that a lot of the claims about what they can do have been disproven. I would REALLY love to have a battery that charges up to 5 times faster, but I don't think that that exists unless you spend A LOT of money. In fact, the battery dealer that I bought my batteries from confirmed that AGM batteries have a hard time recovering from a deep loss of charge and can actually take longer than a flooded type battery to charge. My purchase was 4 new Trojan T-145 flooded batteries. Ive had Trojan batteries in our last two motorhomes and they have always worked great. Hopefully these T-145's can handle all the fancy equipment in our new coach. Interesting note - I don't know if its true but the T-105 may have approximately twice the life span than the T-145 and is a very nice battery. I felt it more important to have the 260 AH @ 20 hour rate from the T-145 in my case though. Thanks for everyone's input!!Re: Replacing house batteries in our new motorhome with AGM time2roll wrote: I assume the 2000w inverter will charge at 80+ amps and should be adequate. I need to look into what rate my inverter will charge at over this weekend. If it charges at the right rate, It seems that one big advantage over flooded batteries is the AGM charges up to 5 times faster. This would mean a lot less generator time while dry camping I hope.Re: Replacing house batteries in our new motorhome with AGM wa8yxm wrote: I agree the value and specs look find being GC (Golf Car) batteries they will be DEEP CYCLE which is good.. Now he said Sealed Valve Regulated Lead Acid (Maintenance free) DId he specifically say AGM? There is truly no advantage to AGM over liquid filled Maintenance freer for RV use. For OFF ROAD use yes. and not just AGM but perhaps Optima (Physically way more rugged than any other battery) but for RV use I have yet to be convinced there is an advantage to AGM over other SVRLA batteries (liquid filled). They are more expensive however. But I think you will be very happy with these non the less. Yes. He specifically said AGM by Centennial. I had to do my own research to find what i think is the exact batteries that he was talking about.Replacing house batteries in our new motorhome with AGMThe house batteries in our new motorhome need to power a 2000w inverter and allow us to boondock for several days at a time. Against our better wishes, it cam furnished with a full size residential refrigerator that must be kept going while in the boonies. It came furnished with 4 6v Harris Professional Plus golf cart batteries. I think that the dealer let them discharge badly before the motorhome was sold to us. Anyway, time for new ones! After a little research and some prodding from a local dealer where we are having our warrantee work done, they are recommending 4 new Centennial CB6-250 GC2H sealed lead acid AGM Batteries. They seem pretty top notch when looking at the specs. 250 AH @20 Hr rate, reserve capacity of 570 min @25 amp draw. I can get them locally for $320 each + 30 core charge. Has anyone used these batteries or anything similar? Any thoughts? Thanks!!Re: Having the hardest time buying a new class A There's a way to set your auto, so have you read your manual? As far as I know, the side controls only operate the rear on any of them. As for POWERGEAR, I still consider them one of or not the best and our 11 year old system, still works great. I haven't read the manual yet. I actually just got it in the mail from the manufacturer because our dealer somehow misplaced it. I will check that out. I have researched it online in which people have said thats just how it is. I am only basing this off of our old motorhome that had a fantastic leveling system. You could set the "null" when you know the rig is perfectly level. After that was set, no matter how level you were, it would try to level even if that meant extending the jacks fully. In manual, there was 4 buttons, one for each wheel. If you held down the two left jacks, both left jacks would deploy. You could also go up and down as much as desired without having to "retract all jacks" first. That was a pretty nice set up if you ask me.Re: Having the hardest time buying a new class A RVER wrote: Your post has a 2018 Holiday Rambler in the signature box, is that the rig you chose for your new rig? Good choice, many of the ones you listed are ones I would AVOID so happy to see you did. Yup, That's our baby. I know that once we get the electrical issue worked out we'll enjoy this rig for years to comeRe: Do you carry a spare tire?The whole reason I brought this subject up is because I found that when trying to locate a 19.5" rim and a tire for a spare on our last motorhome, It wasn't easy. I live in a city of a half a million people and I could not locate a rim here locally. I ended up having to get a rim off of Ebay and a used simi truck tire locally for my spare which I ended up needing as I had a complete blow out up in the mountains. I am also in the process of changing insurance carriers for our new rig. In my research I have read a lot of unhappy reviews of people thinking roadside service is going to take care of everything when having a blow out. Many people state that roadside service will come to you and change YOUR spare tire for you. If you don't have one, It sounds like you're screwed? Is there anyone out there who didn't have a spare tire and roadside service was able to take care of you anyway? I think that it would have to be a situation where they are able to locate a tire, bring it out to you, take your bad tire off of the rim, and then mount the new tire on it. That doesn't sound like anything that would happen quickly but maybe I'm wrong?Re: Good sam RV insurance. Good or bad? Mandalay Parr wrote: What year is your Mandy? Our new motorhome is a 2018 HR Vacationer. State Farm handled our last two motorhomes that we bought used fine. it wasn't until This new one that they had trouble getting me a good quote. After arguing with them a few times they finally were able to get the quote down from 6500 to 1600 a year. Progressive is at 1080 for the coverage we need and they cover more things than State Farm. By the way, I started with a local agent for progressive but then found out it was much easier to go to Progressive Direct online and carefully choose my coverage.