einstein2nd
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Re: Just another question on Solar
smkettner wrote: einstein2nd wrote: 2oldman wrote: einstein2nd wrote: Limit TV after the sun goes down: No Sun, No Power. What are the batteries for? Listen, if you can't figure that out... go to school! Read what "KJINTF" said about batteries. KJINTF wrote: It will easily keep two 6Vdc batteries charged up if you have the sunshine and not too many other loads I think KJINTF just said to limit power to get the battery charged. Then einstein2nd says to get the tv on during the daylight and off at night. So which is it? ;) You are reading out of context and no where did I say such a statement.466Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just another question on Solar
CA Traveler wrote: einstein, The typical modern panel has bypass diodes so shading is a non issue. RVers with smaller arrays than yours would be better served with fuses vs a 0.5V drop diode since the typical solar controller provides night time blocking. I agree on small systems like 2 or 4 panels in parallel the bypass diodes will suffice. When you increase the voltage by series is when you start to go beyond the bypass diodes' rated power. Therefore, adding an additional diode rated for the full string will isolate each string of panels from the others. Diodes not only help with shading but also helps with: improper installation, isolates manufacturers' defects, and isolates damaged panels from the others. Example (more like a what if): Two panel system in parallel: One panel is damage and water sets in and shorts out internal wires. The damaged panel acts like a load and draws from the other panel which will burn out if not protected. If you isolate with a diode the power will never divert to the short and you get at least half of the power to your controller. If you use fuses the fuse pops on both panels and no power goes through. Diodes are as cheap as fuses now days. Note: circuit breakers can be reset, but after it trips/pops, it is recommended to be replaced according to the manufacture. Just a tidbit :-). Edit: Fuse works if you want to know if something is wrong. Diode works if you just want outputs no matter what.317Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just another question on Solar
2oldman wrote: There's no entertainment like this place. They say misery likes company. They try to bring others into the darkness with them; blaming them for their sorrows. You need to find a better hobby! With a rig like yours you should be enjoying the open roads instead instigating fights on a forum which probably helped you with your 800watt system. Or you are bitter that you hired a tech to install yours after realizing the information was always at your fingertips.317Views0likes0CommentsRe: 30A or 40A controller?
Joel_T wrote: pianotuna wrote: Hi Joel, What exactly did you buy? If it is MPPT I'd recommend 4 panels in series/parallel configuration. That is what has worked best for me. I got a Trimetric SC2030 30A PWM controller that links with the Trimetric 2030 monitor. It's 2 panels for now. I'm getting a different trailer in a few weeks and am not sure how well the roof real estate, or wallet, will work for 4 panels. grizzzman wrote: Welcome to the "dark side" :B Im an owner who has spent "way" to much time in research on this subject. I would be glad to help. Would you like to know what panel voltages would work best for PWM? I don't have the panels yet and am still in the "sponge" mode so will try to soak up any info you have to offer. Did your research include much about panel diodes? Panel diodes: Any panel in parallel requires to be isolated using diodes and circuit breakers/fuses. Example: I have 24 panels connected. 6 rows of 4 panels in series. Each row has a diode rated for maximum power. This will minimize the other panels from using the shaded panels as a load. In addition, each panel has two or three diodes to isolate between series. Each row will have a circuit breaker/fuse.400Views0likes0CommentsRe: 30A or 40A controller?
Joel_T wrote: I’m going to mount 2 160w panels rated at 9.5 isc amps to feed 2 6v batteries…260ah. If I were to mount a 3rd panel I’m still under 30amps so a 30 amp controller should work fine….or should it. I’ve read a few places that they work better when not near their max rating. Is there any good reason to look at a 40amp SolarBoost 3024 for example that’s way more than I need for 2 panels or even 3 maybe, since there are several 30amp controllers to choose from as well. . There’s no way for the average joe to know why one’s better than another. (After seeing bazillion paged threads debating MPPT vs PWM, if those in the know don’t really know, I’m opting for MPPT for vague reasons, since I’m not an electronics nerd.) Rule of thumb when it comes to electronics: no more than 80% of rated power. The china made items now days I would say no more than 75% due to quality. You want it to handle every ounce of juice your panels produce so go with the bigger and not have to worry about cooking and replacing later.400Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just another question on Solar
CA Traveler wrote: If you have more than 2 panels in parallel they should be individually fused. Add a fuse or better yet a switchable CB between the controller and battery. For panel placement minimize shadows from the rig. Any panel in parallel requires to be isolated using diodes and circuit breakers/fuses. Example: I have 24 panels connected. 6 rows of 4 panels in series. Each row has a diode rated for maximum power. This will minimize the other panels from using the shaded panel as a load. In addition, each panel has two or three diodes to isolate between series. Each row will have a circuit breaker/fuse.317Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just another question on Solar
2oldman wrote: einstein2nd wrote: Modern TV's use about 250watts leaving 250watts to charge batteries.Just remember once the sun goes down limit TV use. Einstein? Hmmm. What 'modern' TV uses 250w? Why limit TV to be 'run' on solar? What 500w system puts out 500w watts? Modern TV: Phillips 32" HD LCD TV uses 125 watts. Limit TV after the sun goes down: No Sun, No Power. Outputs: I didn't feel like stating the reduce rated power. A 500w system will generator at least 60% of the rated power: 300watts if the efficiency is below 13%. So technically my tv will use: 125watts allowing 175watts to the house batteries. I live in the deserts where we get a lot of sun. So if you live in a cloudy area the output will be reduced.317Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just another question on Solar
To save some money: use your house batteries. Modern TV's use about 250watts leaving 250watts to charge batteries. I work with solar. :-) Just remember once the sun goes down limit TV use. Edit: I have a 60watt system that runs my laptop all day. Hence a 250watt system will run a TV all day.51Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fixed Our Refrigerator thanks to RV.Net
Im sorry to jump on your thread: I've been having issues with my 1210IM model. It throws a "no co" code on the display. The black box on the rear heating coils has stopped working. I checked everything: DC good, AC good, no leaks, no obstructions, and gas ignites. In the diagnostics display I show a 54 degree temp. After letting the fridge run for about an hour the temp showed 57 degrees; it shuts down showing the code "no co". I tried resetting the control board by shorting out pin 15 to ground. I've used the diagnostics display by pushing both "temp setting" & "mode" buttons. Then I cycle through all screens "1 thru 0" according to the service manual no faults are showing. Before storing: the fridge operated, after storage the fridge doesn't. I bypassed the black box by connecting the DC in directly to the board and the fridge tries to operate in both AC and Gas modes. I plan to replace the thermistor after reading something on the web. Also, I saw in the service manual about two fans that are behind the fridge to help venting. I don't think I ever heard them turn on. Should you be able to hear the fans; especially in temps of 120 degrees? It is winter now: Feb 2015 and the temps are 40 to 70 degrees. I read in your thread that you used a magnet to reset a box; is this the box that is attached to the coils? I know it is some type of relay or switch; I might just tap it to see if the contacts will release. I was going to remove it and disassemble to see what it is. I'm about to remove the fridge altogether and tear it apart from limb to limb. Everyday I think on what could cause the issue and I try something new each day with little to no results. This weekend I am going to dive in elbows deep if I can't find a simple resolution. If you having any suggestions let me know. Thank you. (Edit): before I stored the RV it was plugged in. We had a brown out and the fridge acted up with low AC/DC. After I reset everything it started working again. Then I stored it and now issues. I think the black box took a large surge and fried.164Views0likes0Comments
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