TJMarc
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Re: Tow Strap
I carry two different types depending on what recovery I intend/anticipate to do. I carry a ker rope (I have a masterpull and a bubba rope in different dia depending on vehicle) and std 3" recovery strap. The ker ropes are good for "snatch" type recovery in mud/sand and the strap is more used to drag people over an obstacle they are hung up on.534Views0likes0CommentsRe: TV tire pressure?
steve-n-vicki wrote: figure this one out OEM tires ,2205 max load at 35 psi max pressure, door sticker 35 psi, replacement tires 2337 max load at 51 psi max pressure , if i run these at 35psi per the door sticker the load chart says 1604 pounds of weight, for me to get back at 2205 load i have to run 48 psi in the tires, so do i run the truck manufactuers tire pressure of 35 psi or the tire manufctures pressure of 48 The pressures are only valid for the application listed on the label. Once you change the tire size, the pressures are no longer valid. Due to the number of variables involved and the lawsuits...the vehicle mfg position is likely that you should not be changing the tire size from what was provided at the point of sale, so one needs to utilize our best judgment. The tire mfg and/or the TRA provide minimum pressures are based upon a number of assumptions/limits...its up to the consumer to determin if they fit within those assumptions/limits and that it's an appropriate number.463Views0likes0CommentsRe: TV tire pressure?
If you are looking for actual published data...other than the door jam. I guess closest to definitive would be corner weighting your truck and using the manufacturers load tables for your tires. Then maybe next up would be axle weights and the mfg load tables. I suppose following that would be either of those methods and using the Tire and Rim Association (TRA) tables. I usually do the axle weight vs. the mfg load tables.464Views0likes0CommentsRe: rv garage
gdavidg wrote: ...LP (louisiana pacific) has an OSB panel that is fire rated called Flame Block. ... One think to keep in mind is listed proprietary products are very specific regarding their installation. Not saying this one is good or bad...just saying the devil is in the details. Hate for someone to specifying a product then get into the field and then realize what's actually involved to achieve what they need.665Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tow Dolly or car hauler
I prefer the trailer...but have used a dolly with small compact cars without difficulty but never bothered backing up so I don't know what that is like. I use the same extension cut down to 24" with a weight distrubution setup. I have to run it maxed out tw wise but it works well. It looks like you are using it as a 34" extension...if that's the case you the car+trailer will need to be 6000# max (with a wt. dist. setup) and a lot less without a dist. setup. Provided you are not doing a one way rental, storing the trailer at your destinations may be an issue. Another consideration to keep in mind is how you are going to secure the car to the trailer...some cars are more of a challenge then others.453Views0likes0CommentsRe: rv garage
Figured I reply because I saw a few incorrect terms usage of terms. Firewall: You generally will never see a firewall in single/two family dwellings (SFR). The intent of a firewall from a fire/life-safety perspective is to be able to treat the two buildings as separate buildings. (i.e. overly simplistic version...one side burns down and the other remains) So be carful if you are talking to a contractor because if you ask for a firewall and the contractor wants to take advantage of the situation...you will get a safer structure and a substantially lighter wallet. Fire Retardant and Fire Resistant/Resistive/Protective are not the same. Fire Retardant generally means it's just treated to slow the rate in which it burns. Fire Resistant means it prevents the passage of heat and flame. Also, the need for fire resistance is determined by a number of things but in SFR generally you are concerned with protecting the occupants from a fire in higher risk non-living spaces (i.e. garage) and protecting you from your neighbors and your neighbors from you. Thus, in an attached garage situation you will see gypsum board, along with a solid (or rated) self closing door between the garage and the dwelling. For a detached garage built against the property line situation you will see fire resistant construction (1 hr) and no openings along the property line. NFPA has already been mentioned, another are the icodes https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/ and would be the International Residential Code for SFR. Also, just because it's on the approved drawings doesn't always mean it's correct. Jurisdictions usually don't have the time/resources to go thru the drawings to the level of detail it seems people assume they do. Generally they are doing a cursory review to check to see if your design professional is doing their job and comment of the obvious errors. A common error designers/builders make is assume since the City didn't catch it and approved the drawings...then it must be right. Well enough of my rambling...now what would I do. If I was building a garage for myself I'd go gypsum board and in addition to the required fire blocking (which I'd request be at constant height) I'd also specify two (maybe even three in some places) lines of 2x flat blocking at two heights around my garage. Since I often do a bit of welding/cutting/grinding, being able to control/minimize fire is a primary concern. This would give me known anchorage points through my garage. Of course I don't have the money or the land for an RV garage...so I can only dream.657Views0likes0CommentsRe: Searching for the Ultimate caulking.
FlyfisherBob wrote: Profile Geocel Rv Update: Did a few tests on corner seams. This caulk appears to be the 2010 TravelLite OEM sealer. I am trying to duplicate the factory application. This caulk has a very short working time and the factory must of had two people doing the job for speed and quality. Will try a stiff foam brush with a light coating of mineral spirits to smooth and blend. Before screwing down the moulding with Stainless screws, I stick a 1 inch wide piece of roofing membrane over the joint. Wish I had the special RV tape with the fabric outer layer, but this is better than nothing. This 6 year old camper had been to the Artic on the Dempster Hwy. and most the other dirt Yukon and Alaskan Hwys. Any caulk that survive those conditions must be the Ultimate caulk. Hope I found it. Thanks for all the great advice. Bob I learned this sometime ago on the internet...where I no longer recall. When I caulk with geocel (proflex)I use a spray bottle with a strong dishsoap/water solution to shape/remove the excess. The steps I do are as follow: - With a scraper (plastic or metal depending how aggressive I feel) remove as much old caulk as practical - Use a light solvent/cleaner to clean the area - With a caulking gun I put down a decent size bead...length is determined by my available reach. - Use the spray bottle to wet down the area - With a gloved (nitrile) hand, I slide my wetted index finger along the joint to remove the excess The key is to place the caulk where you want it then use the mixture as a barrier to allow you to touch it without it sticking (or minimize as much as possible) to your glove or the surrounding surfaces. YMMV609Views0likes0CommentsRe: CA form 4008
HMS Beagle wrote: ... month and year stickers are supposed to be applied to the front plate, not the back. I have never seen this on a pickup, even one with weight stickers, but the law is clear.... Interesting you brought this up, I actually run my tags on the front because I believe the instructions on the tags that came with my plate said to do so. For me, after working my way thru the laws I came to the conclusion that even though I don't operate commercially, CA feels the need to license my truck otherwise. This is how it's been with all my other past trucks as well but now with the one ton dually I knew I was heavy enough to be outside of some of the exceptions, so i needed to sort thru the provisions. I determined I was exempt from a MCP but not the weight fees so I tagged my current truck for 26k (I will tow a "utility trailer" from time to time with and without the camper) The door stickers live in the glove box. I've been known to be wrong from time to time so I wouldn't take my opinion for more than that...an opinion.366Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wind noise only with TC installed.
That was one of the things that bugged me about my old truck (2007 Dodge Ram) was the door air leakage when loaded with the camper. On a constant crosswind the amount of leakage would even change when hitting bumps or driving over rollers (likely due to frame flex). I actually took it in and had my doors adjusted and it took a bulk of it away but it would still leak during very strong cross winds or when I would go over bumps or over rollers during constant cross winds. I believe they drifted my hinges (I could see the marks) and may have adjusted the strike.470Views0likes0CommentsRe: Arctic Fox
travelnutz wrote: ...Per their salesman own verbal words, Arctic Fox TC's are hard to sell as they do not have a very high reputation for quality in the Midwest and some other areas of the country. Lots of customer/owner complaints. Not my words, his! I'm not in the Mid-West but I had a dealer tell me something similar...it was at the dealer that I bought my AF 811 from a few years prior and was visiting because I was considering ordering a race car trailer with living quarters. The topic came up when I noticed they were carrying Lance and had dropped Northwood. Of course the sales pitch was completely the opposite when they originally sold me the AF.306Views0likes0Comments
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