All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Will a 3/4 ton do Cummins12V98 wrote: Jerry Said....."Yes, it is obvious Grit knows more about trucks than you, as do many other members!" That kinda hurt me a little. ;) So "knowing" about trucks means "knowing" that the manufacturers' ratings are BS? Well, I guess I'm an idiot.Re: Will a 3/4 ton do Grit dog wrote: I’m sorry some don’t understand vehicles enough to know what is safe or not. Cheers dudes! Again, all I did was post my actual weights and the manufacturer's ratings for my truck and the same truck in a 2500.....I am not in any way making a statement about what is safe or not. Apparently you know much more than the manufacturers do about the meaning of ratings. You should be working for FCA, they would love to have you in the engineering dept....oh wait, are you an engineer?Re: Will a 3/4 ton do Grit dog wrote: Since you're about data, what data can you cite that makes the SAME AAM 11.5 axle good for 6k under 1 truck, 7k under another truck and 10k under a third truck actually be "different." You obviously know more about trucks than I do...I do not know for a fact that the axles on a 2500 and 3500 are the same. I only posted the results from my trip to the scale and compared them to the ratings on my truck and the ratings published for a 2500. I've been contributing to this forum since 2001, 11+ years before you joined, so if anybody is trolling it's you. The OP asked a question about weights and you're trying your best to turn this into an argument. I believe that ratings are there for a reason, you obviously think they are concocted for political reasons have have no basis in fact. As my Dad used to say, "You're entitled to your opinion, no matter how wrong it may be."Re: Will a 3/4 ton doYou're right, I didn't scroll down through the 2015 Ram 2500 Towing Chart far enough....it's either 6000, 6200 or 6500 depending on model configuration, and somehow the rating gets magically changed on the Canadian model.... Of course 20 lbs is not a big deal, but I like to have a little margin built in because it would be more than that with a full water tank (extra 50 gals), maybe extra passengers in the back seat etc. No way the beer is staying home :B Not trying to split hairs, just give the OP some real world data so he can buy the truck that's right for him. I originally bought this truck to carry a Lance TC, had no intention of buying a 5er, but here we are....I lucked out on the numbers.Re: Will a 3/4 ton do IdaD wrote: ....the decal on your fender doesn't mean anything. My 3500 has a 7,000 lb rear axle rating....the same truck in a 2500 has a 6,000 lb rear axle rating. Not where you want to be when you scale at 6,020 on the rear axle. Is that simply tire rating or is the axle different? What else affects RAWR? I agree GVWR is a warranty rating, axle ratings are a safety issue.Re: Will a 3/4 ton doAs it happens the 5er we just bought has a 14,000 GVWR, we are towing with a 2015 Ram 3500 crew cab, long box, single rear wheel, with Cummins diesel (not the HO). We packed the trailer up, added 4 6v batteries in the forward compartment, about 1/2 tank (50 gals) of fresh water and hit the scales on our maiden voyage. Ratings for this truck: GVWR 12,300 GCWR 25,300 FAWR 6,000 RAWR 7,000 Tow rating 17,000 Scale readings: Steer 5,420 Drive 6,020 Trailer 9,940 Total 21,380 So you can see the truck weighed in 11,440, that's 860 lbs under my GVWR, but obviously a 10,000 GVWR wouldn't cut it here. The truck empty (with hitch in the bed) weighs in at 8,500 lbs, meaning the the 5er pin weight is 2,940, and the total trailer weight is 12,880 or 1,120 under the trailer's 14,000 GVWR. I am also 580 under the front axle rating and 980 under the rear axle rating. As was stated, you can't shop by 2500 vs 3500 any more since the ratings vary by box length, engine choice and cab configuration. Some the 3500's according to the Ram Towing Charts have GVWRs as low as 10,100.Re: Tonneau Covers Durb wrote: It sounds as though we might have the exact same setup. I also have a Trailer Saver TS3 which gives me 14" between the hitch and the wheel wells to slide stuff in from the sides. I'm guessing the BD series hitches are wider. I have a friend with the BakFlip and he loves it. I went out and looked over during lunch and it's about 12" from the back of the cover to the hitch. There is room between the hitch and the wheelwells, but the Curt rails go almost the whole way across. So you can fit stuff in alongside the hitch, but you really can't slide anything on the bed because of the 2 rails. The Bak Flip looks like the way to go, now I just need to convince management that it's worth a grand.... Hey Lantley, since you also turned me on to the Trailer Saver, you could save me some time and just make me a list of other stuff I need now that I'm a fiver driver....LOL>..Re: Tonneau Covers Durb wrote: Don't mean to be a wise -A, but it would be cheaper to replace the big chest with two smaller ones. LOL good point! The ice chest was just an example though...the issue is that the cover only folds in thirds, and when it's open the front third is fixed in place. The hitch is a Hensley Trailer Saver mounted on Curt rails. When the cover is open, the back edge of it is only about 6" in front of the hitch, and with the wheel wells on the either side it's difficult to get anything in the front of the bed. The cover comes off completely with 2 thumbscrews, but you have to crawl up in the bed to reach them, which again is difficult with the hitch. If that front section was hinged so you could lift it up without completely detaching it, that would be perfect. The BakFlip looks like what I need.Re: Need guidance on best roof trailersMost all RVs have rubber roofs and are sealed around the edges and the penetration points like vents, etc. How well the trailer was maintained has more of an effect on leak resistance than a particular brand. I would think if you are doing a seasonal site especially in upstate NY you would want to build something like this: Re: Goodyear recalls 173,000 RV tiresClicky
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