Firebirdman
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Joined 16 years ago
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Re: DELAMINATION!!
Mine has shrunk as well, where the metal strips cover two panel joints the edges of the panels is now outside the strips allowing water to get in behind the outter skin. I'll have to get new strips made 1/2" wider to cover the gaps, as far as I know I can't purchase wider strips, seems to be a standard size, right now I have tape covering almost all the strip edges..479Views0likes0CommentsRe: Purchased RV leak over cab, now what?
Dusty R wrote: Mich F wrote: My son does RV repair for a living. He sent this picture a few weeks ago of an RV that had severe water leak problems. He got it to what you see in the picture in less than 2 hours. It took 40-50hrs to rebuild and they charged about $8,500. That looks like our mh. I guess I'd better go and check the barn. :) Dusty I have a 96 Chevy Tioga Fleetwood Flyer that is getting ready to look exactly like that. I've already reskinned and covered the roof, rebuilt the bedroom, painted and new flooring throughout, now the front bunk is going to require a complete tearout to fix the damage up there. Those type pics help a lot, keep em coming. Also, I've rebuilt the generator and fixed the exhaust manifolds, I also plan to upgrade the drivers area and possibly re-paint the entire thing. Why would I do all this on a old 454 gas powered RV that cost $8500 and has 78K miles? Try to find a cheap RV that will pull an 8500 lb enclosed trailer. I literally had no other options, P30 Chassis, 10K towing, cheap. But, I don't have a problem doing most of the work myself. Although I did hire some of it out it's not a blank check to the local RV guy either. Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do. Right now it's caulked and taped to hold it together up front awhile longer.436Views0likes0CommentsRe: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
Seeing your work has got me looking for an older one to modify, don't want the total rebuild, but rework the interior to our taste, and the running gear for towing. Found this on the local Craigslist, reminded me of yours. Local RV But I'm going to keep looking for a 23' with a chevy chassis and 454.243Views0likes0CommentsRe: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
oldtrucker63 wrote: I would like to find a set of shorty headers for it with 3 inch exhaust That would sure open it up and let it breathe and would get the gas mileage up a little and it would be nice to have an aluminum intake manifold with a new carburetor, and a good RV camm shaft, Do you think this rig could get 11 or 12 miles per gallon.??? From what I remember of old 440's is they could be decent milage engines for the size if you keep your foot out of it. Not sure about with the extra weight of the RV though. Need to get some good air into it, that breather is pretty restrictive, and a good intake with a Spread bore carb, low-mid cam and shorty hearders wouldn't hurt, as well as a good ignition. But forget it if you put a Holley on it, even a square bore Carter or Edelbrock probably won't get you there. You need the small primaries of a Spread Bore I'd think. I don't remember if you said yours had the Thermoquad Carb or not, but if set up right that would be the perfect carb for it. Should be an 850 CFM with small primaries if it has one.242Views0likes0CommentsRe: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
Not sure about those stacks. I've been giving thought to reworking a 24' to my taste since I'd like a full queen rear bed. But also thinking about the drivetrain since this rig will be for towing my race car. Some of the Chevy's I've looked at have 454's, so I was thinking an Edelbrock performer intake, low-mid torque cam, shorty headers and dual exhaust with X pipe. But I was thinking of dropping 3" pipes out in front of the rear wheels with angled tips. You'd need resonators and good mufflers to knock down the drone sound though. Could go over the axle and angle drop them behind the wheels, that'd look pretty cool. You might be able to find some shorty headers for a 440, long tube might be a PITA on that chassis.124Views0likes0Comments
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