bobsbbq
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Re: Roof replacement and insurance companies
I don't have anything against a patch if that is all they pay for. I guess my biggest disappointment is the way the over sale the coverage. They new when I bought the policy a year ago , because of the age they would not replace a roof but yet that is what they told me. I'm going insurance hunting back to a cheaper policy as it is not worth the extra money on this older RV if they will not cover as they claim.517Views0likes0CommentsRoof replacement and insurance companies
I would like to get feedback from others who may have had a insurance claim on your rubber roof. We recently had a limb fall on our 5er and tore two holes in the roof. One was about 4" and 1 about a quarter size. The insurance company is National General through Good SAMs. We are waiting on a appointment to have a shop inspect it. The shop has said they will not patch it over the phone. Response from adjuster is "it will not require a roof replacement and can be patched" they said they would not pay for a replacement as the RV is 12 years old. They told me when I got the policy it would cover replacement cost of the roof and awning less 100.00 deductible. Now there are saying that the roof is a replaceable item just like tires, and will apply wearable value. They said the roof life is 10 years and I'm already past that. So it sounds like they already are not wanting to replace it regardless of what the shop recommend. We don't have the money to cover getting the roof replaced if the insurance doesn't cover a majority of it. Has anyone had similar dealings with this or any recommendations.6.6KViews0likes18CommentsRe: Slide out supports
We use the slide supports on ours. We live in a semi permanent location and don't plan on moving much. We are on a concrete slab, have 6 support jack stands under the frame for stability. We have custom made bunk beds in the slide so we wanted the extra support. I don't worry about a flat tire as the jack stands would not let it come down anyway. And we are in it all the time. Just make sure you use them as directed. We check ours about every 3 months just to make sure they are still snug. It really depends on how you are using your RV. If we were just going campground to campground I would not use them.513Views0likes0Comments30 to 50 Amp service upgrade/conversion
Well when we bought our latest 5ver we were pretty happy with the 15K air and the job it did during the summer. And we didn't have too many issues with tripping breakers. However when fall and winter showed up the heating situation was another story. I found out that heating a much larger trailer was going to require additional heat. Since electricity is included we try to use as much electric heat as we can. And use the furnace for quick warm ups. This is where we started having problems with breakers tripping. We had a 1500 watt heater in the rear and a small heater in the bedroom. This was just not enough heat in the big living area where the kids sleep in bunk beds. So I happened to luck out on a clearance fireplace from PPL for 50.00 and installed it under the TV. I however could not run it on nothing but low and even then it would sometimes trip the breakers. So I decided to take the challenge and do the upgrade. My RV was a perfect candidate as it had a separate AC and DC distribution panels. The AC panel was located in the hall going up into the bedroom and right above the storage compartment. It had a Square D QO series box but it was only a single pole. I purchased all of the box and breakers etc for 70.00. I went with a Square D Homline 100 amp panel with 6 spaces and 12 circuits. I knew my biggest challenge was the mounting of the new panel as space was an issue. Some things to note, I purchased the SO wire from a local electrical supply for about 20.00 I used 6/4 wire. Another thing is on the side of the trailer where my 30 amp can out, I had a locking cover. When removing this cover I had a large whole left and no way to mount the Marinco style input connector. I used a tip found on a forum and cut out a pice of cutting board to cover the hole and provide a new mounting surface. I ordered the 50A Marinco style input from EBay for 29.99 and was very happy with the quality. Locally they are 95-130.00 For me it was easy to run the new wire from the input connector to the new panel as this was right next tomy storage compartment. This is without a doubt the hardest part in doing this upgrade. After removing the old panel and marking the wires we got the new panel installed after som minor modifications. The other thing was the old wires were not long enough to reach inside the new load center, so some splicing was required. I balanced the load as follows; Bus1, Main Bus2, Main Bus1, Front RV Bus1, Microwave Bus2, Rear RV Bus2, Water heater Bus1, Fireplace Bus1, AC Bus2, Not used Bus2, Not used I used 2 15A double breakers and 1 20A double breaker. I still have room for 2 more circuits. The one thing I'm not sure of is where the convertor is tied in to. In the future I might relocate it to its own breaker. All in all it was well worth the money and time. We can now run the 1500 watt fireplace, and the 1500 watt heater in the rear, as well as a heater in the front bedroom. This upgrade requires knowledge of electrical wiring and should only be done by qualified people. I hope this might help someone and feel free to contact me if you have any questions. The old load center The old load center removed and modifications starting to get enough room to get new load center in. A view of the storage compartment showing the new cable running up to the new load center The outside modifications for input connector New load center installed and working The Fireplace installed1.6KViews0likes5CommentsRe: Black tank Overflowed? How is the best way to clean-up
Well I found the location of the leak. It was in the drain pipe from the toilet to the black tank. I had to repair it once in the past due to a cracked 45 elbow. I had looked at it originally but the pipe was dry so it through me off a little and there was no leaking when flushing the toilet. It is a easy enough fix and I'm glad there is no problem with the tank. For clean up I removed all the old carpet and scrubbed the wood with bleach. While this helped some after drying I still had odor. I then have used odorban a few times and it seems to be helping a lot. It looks like Old Biscuit hit it right on in his first post. Thank you to everyone.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Black tank Overflowed? How is the best way to clean-up
Thanks for all the replies, I'm in the process of cutting out the carpet today. Will use the Bleach and air dry the wood. I'm hoping I can get the smell out and be cautious on the tank level until Spring when it is easier to do the work of dropping the tank. We live in this RV so if the odor is still bad after carpet and cleaning the wood I might have to drop the bottom to remove any insulation etc. Will report back.1.1KViews0likes0Comments
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