MTBob
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Re: Placement of CO2 detector?
First my humble appologies for having a brain fart and mistating the "Oxide". As you all correctly pointed out, the detector is for Carbon Monoxide, not Carbon Dioxide. What a bone-head mistake. And, after re-reading the manufacturers instructions, mounting the "CO" detector near ceiling level appears to be appropriate... though apparently it also can be mounted in lower locations. Sorry to have wasted your valuable time repsonding to a stupid question. MTBob484Views0likes0CommentsRe: Checking for water system leaks in a Northern Lite
I'll second what Photomike said. I have had water leaks in the past: I have had dirt in the pump diaphram. Take the pump head off the motor and clean the diaphram. You'll want to pull the pump to do that. Once you get the motor/pump assembly out, cleaning the pump is easy. You should have a filter screen on the intake side of your water pump to stop grit from lodging in the diaphram. Clean that screen periodically. I also replaced the cheap little plastic isolation valves near the pump with brass ball valves (using shark bite fittings). I accessed all my cabin plumbing by removing the stove and sink. Neither is hard to get out. Plumbing under the bathroom sink is another matter, that's impossible to get to. Some folks cut a hole in the fiberglass under the wash basin sink and install a round marine hatch (roates to open/lock) to gain access to the fittings. Also, if you don't have one, (aftere fixing any leaks) adding a capacity tank to your water system will further reduce your water pump cycling. BTW: I was skeptical about using Sharkbite fittings in the camper plumbing - but after 4 years and a bunch of rough miles, none of have leaked. They are certainly better than the plastic compression fittings that came with the camper.833Views0likes0CommentsPlacement of CO2 detector?
I have a Northern Lite TC that has a carbon dioxide detector that has failed. It is mounted on the inside above the entry door. Instructions that came with the new replacement advise that since CO2 is heavier than air, that the unit should be placed near the floor. I've been using the camper for over 10 years, and the old unit was installed above the door by the manufacturer of the camper. The beds are located high in the TC, over the truck cab, slightly below the elevation of the detector. I'm wondering - where do other RV's have their CO2 detector located? Thanks MTBob2.9KViews0likes29CommentsRe: Winterizing
GULFMAN wrote: I also winterizing our 2005 bigfoot. Now the water that comes out of the faucets have a terrible taste. Is there a way to get tried of that? There is a way ... either don't use the pink antifreeze OR don't use the camper's water tank for drinking. We carry a case or two of bottled water for drinking / cooking and use the camper's water tank only for washing (non drinking use). I've tried using a chlorine dose in the water tank and it takes a long time for that smell to dissipate and it may or may not work to kill bugs. We just prefer bottled water, though the camper tank may be just fine. The DW likes bottled water... therefore I like bottled water...! Bob737Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winterizing
JCinAK wrote: I was able to trace the lines and figure it out. Wow, you are a better plumber than I am. For years I've tried to trace my plumbing lines in our NL 10-2000 RR and I am still baffled. The lines that are under the sink and stove are fairly easy to understand, but the ones that route inside the shell wall near the pump room are still a mystery. Bob738Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chinook Glacier - Are They A Maintenance Problem?
Sorry for the delay in replying to this email thread that I started, we've been "off grid" for a while in UT and WY. Your information has been really helpful and I now more fully understand the history and pricing of this RV. So, the question for me is whether I want to purchase what appears to be an aging quality product that will likely require maintenance, or opt for something a bit newer of similar quality. The Phoenix Cruiser appears attractive, though without a slide out, it's not much bigger than our Truck Camper (I think). It's certainly more attractive and has better creature comforts than our Truck Camper. Thanks for all the information. Bob1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: "Dry" Camping - Cold Weather
bighatnohorse wrote: Camping is supposed to be fun. Not a test of endurance. Hey, that's a great user name, love it! You're right... DW thinks it should be fun, I think of it as a challenge. Therein lies the opportunity to meet in the middle. For those of us who live in winters that reach -30F, life can be a bit of an endurance test. As we get older, perhaps we'll annually migrate to warmer climates. Bob167Views0likes0CommentsRe: "Dry" Camping - Cold Weather
GordonThree - you are a tough dude, and obviously a talented RV'er to upgrade your camper to handle -15. That's when things start getting a bit chilly up north. As far as "Dry" camping - well I suppose it's semantics. Since I never camp with hookups anyway - call it boondocking - to me not having 40 gallons of water on board is a bit "drier" than normal. Call it "Semi-Dry" camping. I don't leave the black tank dump valve open, ugh, that would be a bit nasty. I use about the same amount of flush water from my water jug as is used during "normal' flushing. For the temps that I'll see - in the 20's - using a mixture of pink antifreeze will work OK, not perfect, but OK. And, since we live in Montana, we take showers every other full moon. We discovered some time ago that there are other ways of washing instead of showering. Bob168Views0likes0Comments
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