MacZulu
Explorer
Joined 9 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Resealing my steel roof
Thanks for the tips Mr Wizard. I will do a magnet test on the roof, I just assumed it was steel from the appearance. I'm on the fence right now about removing all the old sealant. The bondo stuff is very hard for the most part, and it covers the whole rail and join very well. I am thinking it is a more solid join than I would have with dicor and e tape. Maybe less (work) is more (effective) in this case. I will look into the vibrating multi tool, but a heat gun and an 1 1/4" scraper wasn't too bad so far. I have about 12', bathroom vent, and 3 roof rack anchors cleared so far. I also have proflex, using proflex for the areas I've cleared with dicor smothered on top to "bulk" it up a bit to match the original before applying the e tape. I'm not able to doing anything today, so I am sorting out my strategy.310Views0likes0CommentsResealing my steel roof
Well after our trip to the Yukon last September I inspected the roof and found a few spots of concern. Unfortunately our October had one rain free afternoon all month, and then (as most here will know) the winter was much worse than usual. So I am now just seeing to it. After talking to a local rv service rep about eternabond tape, and seeing he was clueless to the fact that eternabond is supposed to be steel rolled to initiate it's patented adhesion. I guess they hand apply and rub it down and consider it done. So I believe in this case it is a matter of I'm better off doing it myself, if for no other reason than peace of mind. After spending a few hours removing the old stuff along the driverside and all around the bathroom vent, I'm glad it's me doing the work myself (except it actually sucks doing the work). I have already found two issues. I don't know how they did it, but somebody made a large hole in my vent cap. It looks like a cutting disc did it, also it's cracked around a few screws that look over tightened. I also found a small gouge in my metal roof right along the rail. I would rather find all the flaws myself and make sure they are repaired as best as possible. I will get a new vent cap that has the vortex head to "pull" odor out, and the gouge will be dealt with in the new seal job. What I seem to have on the roof right now is two thin layers of rubber coating, which appear to have been applied consecutively. I say this because the top coat obviously shows weathering, but the undercoat looks clean. Under the rubber coatings is a very hard bondo like material that I suspect is from the factory (1989). I believe the bondo like material is degrading in some areas enough that the thin rubber coatings has cracked over the degraded areas from flexing during road travel. So I am removing everything down to the metal roof around all seals. The rubber coating is holding well in the flat areas so I plan on leaving that stuff for now. What it looks like Click For Full-Size Image. Click For Full-Size Image. My initial plan was to clean out the old stuff as best as possible, and use acetone and non-chlorinated brake cleaner (what eternacleaner is apparently)then rinse off and dry. Then I was going to use dicor lap sealent for both sides of the rail, and then apply the eternabond 4" tape. Eterna people say not to stretch their tape at all, that is why I am going to use the dicor to fill in the 90 degree angle, and then the tape on top. I am now wondering if I should take off the rail and apply the tape directely to the seam, then lay the rail on top and use the dicor on the screw heads. or even applying more tape on top of rail, doubling the amount of tape used ($) for a longer term fix. So I am asking for general advice and relative experiences to help on my way. I used the tape and dicor when I installed my fantasic fan, and it seems to be doing very well so far. Other than that I have no experience. My initial plan Click For Full-Size Image. the strip in the rail will still be in place for this set up, held solid by the bondo like stuff. I forgot to add that to my beautiful graphic. ok another edit. After more research I am thinking I may be over doing it. Seems like a really good cleaning and apply the tape should be good for years. So I may just feel along all joins and repair the bad spots. Dig it out and use dicor to build it up, then tape on top.1.8KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Cassiar
We should be up there in a week or so,was thinking of Meziadin Lake one night, then Boya the next. We're really looking forward to Stuart-Cassier, one of favorite stretches going to Whitehorse from Vancouver. We were always in a car (and without our son) before, so this will be the firt rv trip up. I am taking along a 15 gal gas caddy on the back in case we are still up there when the season shuts down some gas stops. Last time we went north in September we saw northern lights a few times, so I'll have the camera gear out for sure.404Views0likes0CommentsRe: Backup camera installation
That's sounds a little overkill, I position mine to see my cargo rack and behind. Of course that makes my cargo rack my bumper essentially, but from there I can safely maneuver gas stations and camp spots. And I can still use it for lane changes if necessary.318Views0likes0CommentsRe: Backup camera installation
I understand your fear of leaks living in the vancouver area, I have been here for 15 years (Burnaby, North Van and now Coquitlam). I too have a fiberglass body and I recently installed a wireless camera. I removed my rear center running light and in stalled the camera in that position. If needed for some reason I can remove the camera and put the running light back in place. So far it is rock solid, but I will keep an eye on it319Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Bucket List Trips
Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Feb 17, 202538,707 Posts RV Newbies
We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts
