rferoni
Explorer
Joined 23 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Help with weight distribution hitch
thanks again y'all. Ok yeah I found a youtube video showing how you hook up the TT to the TV then jack it up a little above unloaded height and then connect the w/d bars. I was setting the w/d bars AFTER hooking up the TT AND letting the weight settle on the TV. I will go to 4 links instead of 5 and see what happens. I'm hoping it will give me that 5/8" I need! I'll keep everyone posted, but won't be until Wednesday when I can mess with it again. Thank you all! Ron328Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help with weight distribution hitch
Ok thanks y'all. Right now that jack screw isn't even hitting/resting on the shank. Above the jack screw there is another sort of 'bolt'(not threaded) that has some washers on it. Looks like you could add/remove washers?? This part is resting against the shank. I tried to go to 4 chain links but the brackets are so low I can't get the pipe underneath without the pipe hitting the ground. Yes I can get a different pipe or maybe put a bend in it just haven't had the chance yet. I think the ball was tilted toward the trailer when we set it up. I'll get the ball straight(level) and redo everything from there. Question...Do I adjust the tilt while everything is hooked up? I mean with the w/d bars tightened down and everything? If so, how exactly do I do that? Do I need to loosen the bolts holding the hitch head to the shank, or just crank on the jack screw? Thank you all again for the input, Ron328Views0likes0CommentsHelp with weight distribution hitch
Hey all, I've read the stickies and have tried setting up the hitch and have a few questions. Hitch is a drawtight 800 about 13 years old I think. Came with the trailer we bought. My tow vehicle is a 2004 F150 5.4 liter. I followed all the instructions on the stickies and the hitch may even be setup right but I just want to make sure. Basically, after all is said and done, the front of my truck is within 5/8" of unloaded height. The rear of the truck though is squatting about 2" below unloaded height. The trailer is level. I have 5 links on the trunnion style bars. One thing I don't understand is the angle of the ball and how to adjust/use it to my advantage. There is a jack screw that looks like it is used to adjust the angle of the ball. I'm not sure if I have the right shank for my truck. I think the previous tow vehicle was a ford f150 also but it looked pretty new. Appreciate any help, Ron2.1KViews0likes10CommentsVinyl insert in moldings...question..
Hello all, Got my first TT with unknown water damage. Have everything fixed and buttoning everything back up. When I took the top molding off that goes horizontally across the back end top of roof there was no vinyl insert. All the screw heads were caulked over. I'm just wondering if that is how its supposed to be. I checked the same molding in front and it also does not have the vinyl insert. All the vertical moldings have the insert as well as the rain gutters. Is there supposed to be vinyl insert in these places? Thanks, Ron775Views0likes6CommentsLink to butyl tape and butyl putty tape?
Hello all, Been trying to get advice on putting my TT back together. I've read so much my head is spinning and confused as ever on this butyl putty vs butyl tape thing. First off, I'll be using it to put all the moldings back on the TT. The corner moldings and gutter moldings and top cross member moldings. Question...do I use butyl putty or straight butyl tape? Can you tell a difference by looking at the two? It seems this tape goes by both names and you could be buying something that's not what you want. Does anyone have a link to each type? Another confusing factor is that I know many on this site prefer the not-putty style butyl, but an rv tech told me to use the putty style.:h:h Thanks for any help, Ron4.2KViews0likes7CommentsHelp.repair questions butyl tape rubber roof adhesive
Hello all, I am currently putting back together the first TT I ever bought after discovering water damage. I am almost ready to put it back together and have a couple questions. I see I can buy butyl tape in 3/4 and 1 inch widths. On my corner molding one side is probably a little over and inch wide while the other side is around 3/4 inch wide. Can I use the 3/4 tape(which seems more available at the local rv stores) or should I use the 1 inch tape? Also do I put the tape on the molding or the trailer itself? Seems either way should work. I want to use a truss/lath style screw to put the molding back on. Does anyone see an issue with this? I also want to use the same screw (shorter length) to put the siding back on as the area is a little chewed up from pulling out all the staples of the siding we had to take off to repair the water damage. Any issues with using screws instead of staples for siding? How are the marker lights/tail lights water proofed? What I mean is it seems some of the marker lights had the butyl on them and some had nothing(upper ones that were leaking). One was just caulked. I like the idea of using the butyl on all the lights. Is this correct? I also had to peel back a couple feet of the epdm rubber roof. Can I find some type of adhesive that would work? I don't want to buy a gallon at $45 when I only need a cupful. Ok so that was more than a couple questions. Would appreciate any advice if any of you have been there done that. Oh yeah, FYI I will be using the butyl putty on all corner/gutter moldings. Then caulking where there is aluminum on aluminum with QUAD caulk from Home Depot(recommended by local rv tech) then using the Dicor caulk on anything touching the rubber roof. Thanks, Ron399Views0likes0CommentsRe: advice replacing small roof section of wood
wow thanks everyone for the quick responses! Well. I thought I always over-killed any job I've ever done but after reading some of these posts you guys make my work look like factory-built rv work!:). From all the great tips here I think I will be doing the following.. Glue/screw board to roof rafter. Put a slight chamfer on the butt ends. Fill chamfer with rubber roof approved caulking. Remember this is only about a 5-6" by 14" piece. This gets rid of all the rotted wood. I will be posting all the pics from project when we are done, hopefully in the next few weeks. Thanks again! Ron428Views0likes0CommentsRe: advice replacing small roof section of wood
Thank you all for the advice... I guess I wasn't 100% clear explaining what I want to know. I have access to two roof rafters which I will use to attach the new piece of wood with screws, so that part is not an issue. I need to know if I need to be concerned about the seam that will be created by butting two boards together. Over time the rubber roof laying over the seam seems like a bad idea. I was just going to use some sort of tape but wasn't sure what kind. I see someone above mentioned using mesh tape and caulk. How exactly? I can see using mesh tape with some sort of dry-wall style mud but using caulk and mesh tape doesn't make sense to me. Thanks, Ron430Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 27, 202544,029 Posts
