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Re: Trailer sway issies
Cummins12V98 wrote: fowlthing wrote: Towed with a friends F250. No problems. So the truck is the culprit. Tires are worn. Will get to dealership for full check up You simply are NOT listening to FACTS. Too much RV for any 250/2500 no matter how you slice it! Culprit??? Not hardly as you are asking it to do something that it simply can't. Waste all the money they want but the truck is NOT the issue. The truck may very well have damage that is causing the swaying….but even if the truck is repaired and brought up to spec, it is still not near enough truck for that trailer. Towing that trailer with that truck is an accident waiting to happen, and probably illegal. OP: Please convince your brother to get a 350 dually or a smaller trailer.536Views0likes0CommentsRe: Trailer sway milestone 377mb
fowlthing wrote: 2020 Model. Pulling with 2021 Ram 2500 Diesel. Have 3000 miles plus with no issues. Without checking specs, that sounds like WAY too much trailer for that truck! I see you used to have an F350? Did the issue just start after changing trucks? Oops….I see you have another thread on the topic here: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30358297.cfm365Views0likes0CommentsRe: B&W fail or Operator Error?
dieseltruckdriver wrote: Your experience is exactly why I say no one does a proper pull test. When I hook up, I do three separate visual checks. I hope this never happens to me, but if it does, I know it will be operator error, not equipment error. A proper pull test (with the landing gear slightly raised and the wheels chocked or brakes applied) would have saved my bacon. The second visual check DID save my bacon. I never do a proper pull test, only a brake test. If I had done my usual brake test before the 2nd visual, I would have dropped the trailer and it would have been 100% my fault.993Views0likes0CommentsRe: B&W fail or Operator Error?
I would say operator error also. One time I hitched up and forgot to close the front cargo hatch, so I had to unhitch. The handle on my BW would not stay open due to the pressure of the kingpin on the jaws, so I pinned it open. I pulled ahead, closed the hatch and re-connected. I raised the landing gear and pulled ahead a couple inches so that I could remove the wheel chocks. On my way back to the truck I was horrified to see the handle still pinned in the open position! I got away really lucky and won’t make that mistake ever again!993Views0likes0CommentsRe: old cracked faded graphics. R&R is easier than thought.
SDcampowneroperator wrote: bobsallyh wrote: Do you think a plastic razor blade would also work? No the plastic blades are just OK for scraping some of the the adhesive. A heat gun or hair dryer and plastic scraper blades WILL take all the vinyl and 95% of the adhesive off with ZERO chance of gouging the gelcoat. Some 3M adhesive remover and elbow grease gets the remaining glue off. These are what I used. They don’t last long, but they’re cheap.:)617Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3rd AC
Campinfan wrote: have you pulled the inside covers off your AC to see if the ducts are blocked or if some of the cold air is mixing with the hot air. I just saw some videos today on airflow systems ( pretty sure that was the name). Maybe something like that product will help. I saw some videos on youtube about them. That’s the first thing to do. Make sure the two you have are working efficiently. I re-taped the inlets and the divider. I also added a small scoop to direct the air into the long duct to the bedroom. Also block off the duct just past the last diffuser on each run. It made a huge difference!621Views0likes0Comments
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