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Re: Battery question, opinions needed
Thanks everyone for the very helpful input. The whole thing turned into a Murphy's law experience. I bought the new batteries online at the closest Walmart 80 miles away. Everything was confirmed for curbside pickup in 3 hrs. Somehow they screwed up the order so bad that my debit card got flagged for fraud. Bank said it was their fault. Took 2 hours to fix the card issue. Then walmart "said" they didn't have the batteries. Had to go to a Walmart an extra 25 miles away. So 210 miles round trip. I was concerned that maybe an overcharging alternator might have caused the battery problem. But I couldn't test that until the new batteries went in. The battery install was easy. Fired it up. Check engine light came on. It was running fine but charging at over 15 volts. One of the trouble codes was a probable faulty ECM which would have been a $2,000+ dealer only repair. It was late in the day. I decided to sleep on it. Started watching YouTube videos instead. Among other things, I learned that the ECM regulates the charge from the alternator. It will go over 15 volts if temp is freezing or below. It was 30° and dropping when I started it with new batteries. Eventually I came up with this extremely hopeful theory that the multiple trouble codes resulted mainly from the bad battery (it could have easily been the other way around). I couldn't get hold of my mechanic, so I deleted the codes and went for a long test drive the next day after it warmed up to 45°. Apparently, the theory I derived from over a dozen videos was correct. The trouble codes didn't come back, charging was below 15 volts, and it all held up during a long test drive. Hopefully that all holds firm and we're off to our next park tomorrow. Yay. Btw, if you don't have one, get a battery tester. Topdon makes some really good ones for under $60. I got mine on eBay for $23. It measures CCA, internal resistance, SOC, etc. It also tests your alternator and starter. The cheaper one I got assumes you have some knowledge. The midrange ones do the same thing but assume you're a novice. The expensive ones do pretty much the same thing, but they give a printout of results for your customers. Also, battery maintainers have gotten cheap. I got the Sigma 1 for under $30. Both of these devices are light-years ahead of anything I thought I'd ever own. Heck, the code reader I have works on every car manufactured since 1996. It's now about $15. I think I paid $50 when I bought it a few years back. These and other newer electronic tools make the RV life so much easier. All of mine together cost under $200 today. I easily saved more than that on just this problem.565Views0likes0CommentsBattery question, opinions needed
I have two battery banks on my 5th wheel that I can switch on and off or use both. Bank 1 has 4 deep cycle batteries and is used when boondocking. Bank 2 has one 12v deep cycle battery and is used primarily as a backup for when bank 1 gets low (I can switch to it while charging bank 1 off my generator to save some time and gas). Here's the situation. I host all year now and no longer boondock. I always have shore power. The battery on bank 2 has died. Meanwhile, I'm picking up two new group 65 batteries for my truck today. One of the two is shorting out, but the other one is still good. There's a $12 core charge for each new battery. I'm thinking I give them the bad battery from the truck and the bad battery from the RV. Then I use the good battery from the truck on bank 2 with a battery maintainer on it constantly. In essence, I'll be using a starter battery as backup for the rare situation where bank 1 runs down (it happened once last year when a fuse blew on the converter and I didn't want to troubleshoot that in the middle of the night). Does anyone see a problem with this scenario? I keep seeing online advice to never use a starter battery in an RV, and I understand that, but that never takes into account a situation like this with two battery banks and nearly constant shore power. Trying to save a few bucks, but not wanting to run into an unforeseen problem. Thanks.1.9KViews0likes9CommentsRe: Crack in black tank? Is it ABS or Polyethylene?
time2roll wrote: Polyethylene surface will feel soft compared to ABS is a hard plastic. I recommend Plasti-Mend for ABS. Polyethylene probably needs to be welded. Thank you for confirming that. I noticed how hard it was compared to my fresh water tank which I know is polyethylene. When I knocked on it, it sounded like the ABS pipes. The fresh tank didn't. So it really Sounds like it's ABS. I'll still test the filings, but I think I can proceed with some of the prep for the mend. Will let you guys know. As for Plasti-mend, how does it work for firming up large areas? The crack is only a few inches. But it was right along the corner of the tank heating pad that was glued on. I want to firm up the whole area, which is about 10" x 18", just in case it made the whole area brittle. I was going to use a concoction of ABS filings desolved in ABS cement with fiberglass screening for added strength. But if Plasti-mend is better, maybe I should use that.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Crack in black tank? Is it ABS or Polyethylene?
It turns out there is/was a yellow ABS cement. I found it listed on random small store websites, but not on Amazon. It's the same as the black, but yellow so you can better see the weld. It only works on ABS. I can't find anything yellow that binds polyethylene to ABS. So I'm thinking the tank is most likely ABS. When I drill the holes at the ends of the crack, I'll collect some shavings and see if they desolve in ABS cement. If they do, the tank is ABS for sure.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsCrack in black tank? Is it ABS or Polyethylene?
I'm trying to fix a crack in my black tank. I thought all black tanks that are black in color, and affixed to ABS pipes, are are made of ABS. Apparently some genius decided to make black polyethylene tanks when polyethylene can be almost any color. There is a clue that the tank might be polyethylene: Even though it's glued to ABS pipe, ABS cement wasn't used. It's a yellow glue that's all over the pipes, tank, and fittings. It doesn't appear to weld the fittings like you'd see on ABS. But I'd say that doesn't mean much considering how speed seems to be the main factor in how RV's get built. They used the same glue for ABS pipe to ABS fitting connections. One yellow glue for all waste plumbing. This is a 2006 Keystone Everest if that's any help. Any ideas on what type of plastic holding tank I'm dealing with (or how I find out)? Thanks!3.7KViews0likes9CommentsRe: AC problem from hell: Now compressor is turning off.
Craig, I believe that's the first theory that covers everything. First, why did the rear bearing go out on the motor in less than two years when the first motor lasted 12? Could have been a manufacturing defect for sure. But it could have also been slightly uneven drag on the fan. On the original motor, it was the front bearing that went out and I believe it's almost always the front bearing from what I've heard. And not like this. There was no wobbling of the shaft on the first motor. It was the bearing freezing and I was able to get by with lubricating it until I got the new motor. The capacitor going out so fast is also unusual. That, I've been told, is probably related to the motor and now possibly related to the motor working extra hard. Still, it's somewhat unusual to have two problems at once. When those two were fixed, and everything seemed to be working great for over a week, what are the chances of something entirely new going wrong? And of all things, it's the compressor acting like it's going bad. That's seemingly unrelated to everything else I believe. But then I'm clearly having bad luck for some reason. I must have offended the universe or something because when my wife was bringing home a new AC for the RV, the AC suddenly went out on the truck. So there's that. Back to your theory. It's very possible that those coils are partly clogged. I've only cleaned them two or three times in 14 years and I'm thinking the last time was at least five years ago when illness got me really behind on repairs and maintenance of the RV. And I never cleaned them as you described which makes a lot of sense. So. I'll clean then as you described and we'll see what happens. I have access to a pressure washer, but it's one of those awkward borrows because they have to break a rule to loan it to me. Do you think one of those hose nossles that's supposed to mimic a pressure washer would do the job? Also, there are some bent fins. Not a lot but more than I would like. They came with the RV and I missed them (not on my extensive checklist). Should I get the tool and fix them? Note on the truck: Mechanic found a fried clutch that was not capable of engaging the compressor. He said the compressor wheel was turning freely, but not coming on. He did have a reason to suspect the compressor might need to be replaced too. So I'm now referred to the AC garage of my choice. He's new to the valley and knows the options but does not know which is best. So we're doing a work around with our other vehicle until we get back to our home base in December. The motor may be involved too. But I think I have to clean the coils to know. It's capable of running strong. It's still unclear to me why it seems to blow air into the RV at two speeds. Fast when I'm getting cold air and a bit slower when I'm not. On the electrical, I know my meter will detect continuity. Not sure on the other. I know it does a couple of things I didn't understand. So maybe. I've gotta find the sucker. That means my wife needs to remember where she put it when I left it out "too long" or I have to think like her and guess where she put it. Lord help me! I'll find it and there's a good YouTube video on checking all the electrical using a simple check list (assuming the meter does it all). Sounds like I'll be having fun in a few days once the foam arrives. Thanks so much for helping out. Bill640Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC problem from hell: Now compressor is turning off.
I didn't get a chance to check it tonight, but there are frequent times when it sounds like the motor is turning slower and this coincides with less air flowing out of the vents. One time this happens is right around the time when the compressor turns off prematurely. When I test the air coming out of the vent, it's still cold, but a little warmer, and there's less air moving. Maybe that's normal. I don't know. But it's possible what's happening coincides with motor speed. Got the window AC in when it was 104°. It might be the hottest day this year according to the extended forecast. I can't believe how big of wimps we've become. Sunday was 40th wedding anniversary and we talked a lot the heat and feeling old. The 2020 AC saga continues. It's a 42 mile drive to town. My wife went and picked up the window unit. She was 16 miles from home and the AC stopped working on the truck. Strange. Fortunately, we do have a mechanic nearby. Hoping it's simple. There was no indication of a problem until it just happened.640Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC problem from hell: Now compressor is turning off.
So here's where I'm at at and some of this info my be helpful to others. I almost missed the biggest con of them all on the very popular portable air conditioners that people love so much. The hot air going outside is inside air. Lots of negative things about that, but for an RV it's a deal breaker because they aren't close to air tight. I'd be making cold air while sucking in hot air rapidly. Another negative is they have to be 20" from anything around them. Try finding a place like that in an RV bedroom. We don't have it. The unit was small, 14" wide, but the footprint is potentially 54" by 34". So... My wife is picking up a window AC that should be easy to install and get us to the cooler months in Oregon when I can leisurely get the top AC fixed. This is funny. The only one that makes any sense to buy has all the bells and whistles I would never want. You can talk to it and tell it what to do. Some people like that. Best thing though is it has an app. You can control it from anyplace. I think that feature might help resale. Being able to turn it on before you get home sounds pretty cool. So, once I have cool air, I'll keep trying to figure out if it is the compressor for sure before buying another unit. Tonight I'll update you guys with specifics on what it's doing now that it stopped doing anything to cool the RV. Someone mention that maybe it's an issue with the new fan motor. There's reason to think there might be.640Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC problem from hell: Now compressor is turning off.
Thanks Doug. I appreciate your input. There's a way to try a portable unit just for the bedroom for under $300. If we don't like it, we can sell it and go with the rooftop unit for next season. Pros: * Cools the room very fast even when scorching hot. Rooftop takes forever if you don't start it early in the day. * Better dehumidifier that can be used year round. When AC is running, almost no water collects. They cool the coils with the water and most of it is expelled with exhaust. * Super easy installation. * Extended warranty is cheap. If it breaks after 4 years, you just buy another. * With another small one in the living area, there's always a backup if one needs service. * Pretty soon they will be $199. That will be the living room unit. * I don't have to climb up on the roof to do maintenance/repair. Cons: * This one is big: the exhaust hose is 6" diameter and made to run out a window with the unit sitting away from the wall. The installation I want has it next to the wall and that may be tricky since the exhaust comes straight out of the back. It will be awkward until I know it works like we think and get it installed properly for our situation. * We lose a little floor space in both rooms. * It will probably reduce resale value if it's not a spectacular upgrade to standard rooftop. * Doing one in each room does not provide much cost savings.640Views0likes0Comments
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