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Re: Lifting or Leveling a Class B van
The spring swap or 2" block works for the rear, but just returned from the shop and they said the longer front coil would reduce the travel of upper control arm and clearance from the frame by too much (on the 2011 express). Some other years would be fine. They are looking at a drop spindle for the front. Will see what they come up with, and post it. Spring swap is a good suggestion.402Views0likes0CommentsLifting or Leveling a Class B van
Has anyone here raised their Class B 2" to 3" and if so how did you do it? I travel a few back roads and boondock at times and with the generator under the van I have to be quite careful. I have considered at least 2" blocks on rear spring mounts and a 2" leveling spring spacer on the front. New AT tires have given me about 3/4" but I need a little more. Interested to hear if you have done it, how it worked out, or if you have any thoughts/suggestions on the subject. Thanks in advance.2.5KViews0likes6CommentsRe: 5.2 enough?
We have a 1996 RT 190P on the 3500 chassis. All the 1 ton vans came with the 3.93 rear axle. My older late 80's B2500 had approx. 3.5 axle ratio. This could make the B3500 as responsive as the B2500. (provides more torque to the ground, which is what gets you up the hills.) You might want to check what the axle ratio is on you RT 170 to compare. My 190P has preformed quite well 15 - 17 MPG and acceptable torque for the hills. I live in the mountains. It weighs 7640 - 7880 lbs depending on load. I don't think the PW will be much heavier but I know it is a little. Our friends have a 2000 year PW and don't have any problems. I would pick the one that works best for you. Good luck329Views0likes0CommentsRe: Downsizing
Been RVing since 1971. Have had every type, fold downs, truck camper,travel trailers,class A, class C, 30’ 5th wheel, and now class B. Every unit was great at the time and for the intended use. All RV’s are a compromise. Right now the”B” is perfect for our use (in our 70’s). We tell people in has everything or 5th wheel had except it’s all in a phone booth. It has been the easiest RV to travel in, get into any campground, or boondock, 31 gal water, 25 gal grey, 13 gal black. Good for a week boondocking if careful. It helps that we are hobbits, some people love them, but most could not spend a lot of time in one. We are in ours about 6 - 7 months a year and travel about 16,000 miles a year. Only you will know if it can work for your needs and expectations. Good luck on your choice.699Views0likes0CommentsRe: to the honda2000 owners....
Sorry this is a late reply, but I was just cruising and saw the question. Yes it will run when you travel. I have mine on a swivel locking stand off the rear hitch and when I had to switch campsites last month I left the air on while I moved to the new site. It would have to be secured, outside and exhaust clear, to do that. Also the electric cord would have to be secured as well.627Views0likes0CommentsRe: What is this part called on the fresh water tank
The filter treads into the fresh water tank at the very bottom/side and the drain line threads onto the filter housing. Your fresh water fill tees into the drain line so it back fills the tank and it is only a screen filter. The clear plastic cover screws off to clean the screen. It is best replaced on a hoist if you can use one, but I have replaced them with wheel ramps, but laying on the ground is not my thing any more. This location is for 1994 to 1998 roadtrek's, on the Dodge chassis, that I have personally changed, and location may vary for other models, but the two different filters on the shelf were for a number of different years and models. Good luck.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: What is this part called on the fresh water tank
It is a filter, but it filters the water that comes from the diverter valve that you have on the city water hook-up. The one you turn to fill your fresh water tank when hooked up to city water. I purchased the unit at dealer for $16.29 CND last week. There are two kinds with different mounting so be careful.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: to the honda2000 owners....
Hope this reply helps with some general information: I have both a Yamaha 2400 and Honda 2000. They Y-2400 runs a 13,500 btu a/c just fine (it doesn't run a 15,000 consistently) The H-2000 "CAN" run 13,500 but "ONLY" when you start the fan first, get up to speed and THEN press the cool button. It will not start the a/c with out fan running first and then will not run it continuously, and never from a dead start. The Honda -2000 will run A/C's 9,000 btu and lower (consistently use with 6,000 8,000 and 9,000 btu units on several of our Roadtreks' and pleasureway's) As a previous poster said, it is the startup amperage that makes the difference. On a "B" they will work fine as A/C's are around 7-8,000 btu and Microwave usually 700 watts, and both will run at same time. Check the spec's on you unit's appliances, and compare to the peak and running output of your gen set, and decide what you want to be able to run concurrently. Good Luck626Views0likes0Comments
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