rwdl60
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Re: Number of spare tires
I carry two spares! On one trip, BEFORE I replaced all my 6 china bombs with 6 Michelin XPS RIBS, I had three (3) blowouts. I show two here (1 blowout is shredded, 1 blowout with a cancer bubble, and the third blowout is still somewhere in Phoenix). My 3 blowouts, was during the very HOT summer month of August on I-10, during the day. It was at least 104 in Tucson, and I remember it getting up to 114 degrees along the way (not counting the heat from the pavement). On the way back, I decided to drive at night!! Since my 3 blowout trip, I’ve not had any more problems with tires since I now use XPS RIBS, and have replaced all my rubber value stems on my trailer (and Dulley Truck), with metal valve steams (I’ve since cooked the RIBs a couple of times in 105 degree summer heat – and all the tires came out very tasty). Unfortunately, my 2 spares tires (not spare ribs) you see below are still china bombs, but if a RIB goes out, I’ll temporarily use a bomb to get to a tire dealer to order up more RIBS.219Views0likes0CommentsRe: Decal
We have a 2008 Raptor 3602 and our decals are also “horrible” (peeling off, crinkling off, and simple falling off) :S We bought our Raptor “brand new”, and for a year or two, even had it in covered storage. We’ve seen other rigs of that year, of different manufactures; not having as many problems with their decals. We’ve also seen newer, and even older Raptors not having as much difficulties with their decals. I think Keystone during those years (2008-2009), must have been in financial difficulty, and to stay afloat, decided to use cheaper (thinner) decals on their Raptors (along with cheaper glue). I say this, because when we bought the rig, I remember reading about the difficulties the RV industry as a whole, was having at that time (2008-2009). I think Keystone took it out on the Raptors decals (penny pinching). We will also have to remove “ALL” our decals and either replace them with newer ones, or get a full body paint. I think we will not trust Keystone if we have to re-order our decals. They may send us replacement decals, as cheap as their originals. It seems odd to us, that with all the reasonable nice work Keystone put inside the Raptor’s during those years (cabinet wood, wall trim, window decorations, and so on), they would neglect to use higher quality decals on the outside. Has anyone called them, to see if there replacement decals are of a better quality than their original (2008-2009 decals)? I know there are better quality decals out there some were (thicker and better glue).409Views0likes0CommentsRe: We got the truck! Now we need the fiver!
Yes, you’re good to go! I believe the 2014’s are rated at: 397 hp, and 765 lbs torque. You can put 6,355 lbs in the bed, or pull a whapping 21,700 lbs. I have a 2008, which is rated at: 365 hp, with 660 lbs torque. I can put 5,307 lbs in the bed, or pull 16,500 lbs. I’ve been pulling a loaded Raptor 3602RL toyhauler and have done the I-8 west toward San Diego, I-10 east just outside Palm Springs, and I-5 north grapevine west of Lancaster in California, with no problems (during the summer heat). You can pull, ANY rig you need (Just remember not to go to fast up the mountains, or the 18-wheelers will want to race when the road turns level again) :) Note: Change the rubber value stems to steal on your trucks rims. If in heat, the rubber will get soft, and let air out (need to stay at 80psi). ?493Views0likes0CommentsRe: Yesterdays project, with pictures!!
Rob8484, Great pull out ;) We would like to do the same. Our Raptor 3602rl has a pantry, that look like the same size as yours, but there stuff in the back we can't get to (or want too get to now). Was there a package you got, or was it custom?435Views0likes0CommentsRe: anyone running 19.5 wheels on their toy hauler?
I couldn’t justify paying an extra 1800 bucks for 6 new rims, in addition to the 1600 bucks for 6 new tires, so I just update to Michelin Ribs. That did the trick. No more explosions. But I’m still using 16inch rims. Michelin Ribs are a bit smaller than the bombs, but heavier, and built for tanks. Here’s some pics of what happens to china bombs when they explode. This shows one china bomb after it exploded. Another bomb went off, but that tire was so bad, it disintegrated some were in New Mexico, never to be found. This china bomb, didn’t quite explode, but after reaching my destination, and sleeping the night, it decided to grow a balloon fuse, waiting for me to light it. Don’t ever replace tire with bombs (even if your tire warranty wants too). Get high quality tires, with steal all around.215Views0likes0CommentsRe: Goldwing in the garage
Just to add more info to the discussion, the Goldwing weights about 998 lbs. But over the years, I found it a tad easier to unload the bike than to load (personal feelings only – a mental thing). When loading the Wing, with the engine on, I put the front tire right at the bottom of the ramp, with the bike properly aligned with the ramp, and forward looking into the trailer for the front wheel chuck. Then when I start, I use my two dangling legs for balance, but run the bike up with a goal to stop the bike about 1 foot away from wheel chuck, to confirm final alignment. I’m 6 foot 1, so I have no issues of reaching the ground or ramp most of the time. I also have bolted the extra 60 inches aluminum ramp to the bottom of the extra extend flap ramp (using two ¼ inch bolts and washers only hand tight). I bolt the ramps together because going up the ramp, the rear tire has a tendency to try to spit the ramp away from the trailers ramp, especially if you apply power to the rear wheel, with the front tire way up on the trailers ramp. To pull the Goldwing out, I start the engine, and use the reverse gear/button to pull the bike out of the wheel chuck, but I don’t use the reverse gear down the ramp (it won’t work). If you use the reverse gear down the ramp, the bike will start rolling to fast, and you’ll be stuck trying to use your brakes (front brake) to slow it down. I also still use my two dangling legs for balance down the ramp, since my engine is one, and I can use my hand clutch/engine to slow the bike down. Also note that right at the bottom of the ramp, the ground will become harder to reach with your feet. So plan on having the bike roll backward a bit faster, as you reach the bottom of the ramp (with the knowledge that when the bike is off the ramp, you’re normal again and can control the rear speed). It’s really a piece of cake, but if you like pie, it’s just as easy.463Views0likes0CommentsRe: Goldwing in the garage
No need to worry. We have been loading and unloading our GL1800 Goldwing in a 2008 Raptor 3602RL for years. But here’s what we’ve discovered. We have a garage door that has the extra flap that folds out. Stock equipment is not quite enough. When on level ground, like a level parking lot, the extra flap would just barely touch the ground (or not touch the ground at all), so the slop into the garage, would still be too high for comfortable loading and unloading (bike would bottom out at the top). With this stock configuration, I once pop a wheelie at the top of the ramp to get the bike in!! (well, not really, but I was moving so fast, I thought I pop a wheelie). We discovered, that if the garage ramp was open, and the extra flap was extended, and did not touch the ground on a level plane, then the Goldwing's center stand would hit at the top of the ramp. I took a quick measurement of our Raptor 3602RL STOCK ramp system and here our numbers: Main door ramp = 82 inches Extra flap ramp = 36 inches Total stock ramp = 118 inches 118 inches in not enough to load and unload a Wing, if your Voltages floor is at the same height as our Raptor’s floor. We fixed the problem by using one of those 60 inch folding alumni motorcycle ramps, in addition to the normal garage door ramp, with the extended flap. With the extra folding aluminum motorcycle ramp, our total ramp length is now 178 inches. 178 inch ramp length is good enough for a Goldwing on any terrain :) I’m not sure, but if your Voltage has one of the nice extend inches patios, and if it still have the extra flap that folds out to extend the length of the garage door, but I would recommend you try to get a ramp system that’s at least 14 feet. Here’s pic of our solution. I’ve been able to load and unload the Goldwing with no problem, even at a Texas state park that had an extreme slop for RV’s (The front of the Raptor had to be set very low to get the RV level – I did unload the bike, with the truck still attached). By the way, I always RIDE the bike into the garage – with power, and RIDE the bike out with power. I use the bikes first gear to slow it down when backing out. I discovered that using the front brake was not a good option when the slope was high, The wind is too heavy, and the front tire would simply slide down the ramp. Using the rear tire and first gear, I could control the dissent (even in the rain).383Views0likes0CommentsRe: porta boat storage *UPDATE*
Here’s how we carry our 12 foot porta bote. I installed a 10 foot aluminum roller table under our toy hauler. The boat rolls in and out effortlessly. I created a V shape bracket up front (made of simple 1 inch wide aluminum straps), too hold the boat up front. The boat slides in all the way, till it stops. Without the straps, the boat would keep rolling right off the table. In the back of the roller table, I created an aluminum panel, that holds the boat in, alone with ratcheting straps. I had a hitch shop (Spillar Custom Hitch of Austin Texas), custom build the rear support bracket, that’s wielded to the frame. The bracket is made of 3 inch tubular steel, and has 2 heavy duty steal roller wheels attached to help on low entrances. For about 3 years, only two driveways used the roller bars (as far as I know), with no problems at all. The whole assemble is about 1 1/2 inchs below the license plate. If you look for roller tables, get the aluminum versions. The steel version are too heavy. The table is attached to the bottom of my toy hauler frame using metal brackets I created. Here’s some pic’s: Pic of roller table on ground, before installing: Pics of installed roller table: A pic before I had the rear bracket welded to frame: Assembled boat at water dock in a RV park, about 20 feet from our slot:366Views0likes0CommentsRe: Spare tire under garage
We have a couple of spare tires, tucked below the garage. Both are actually under the frame, far from hitting the ground. But, we even added a Porta Bote holder below the tires. Our lowest point is about 2 inches below the rear stabilizer jacks and the Boat holder is about 5 inches below the two spare tires. We've rub a couple of times in high hump driveways, so we had some rear roller wheels welded to the rear frame, and now there no issues, except to go slow when there's a chance to rear-end.344Views0likes0CommentsRe: IS THE EXTENDED WARRANTY GOOD?
Do NOT buy a extended warrenty :S I'm right in the middle of trying to use my extended warrenty on at fifth wheel trailer I bought 4 years ago. I had a transfer swtich go bad, and after calling the warrenty folks "THEY DID NOT WANT TO REPLACE MY LARGE TV's" that got damaged by the switch. They said the screen was to big to replace - bigger than 20inch listed in the fine print of the contract. I know now, NEVER BUY A TRAILER EXTENDED WARRENTY. The cost you pay is not worth it. I felt good about the warrenty, when nothing was going wrong, but when things went wrong, they went wrong. Please pass the word on to others. "The cost of the warrenty is higher than the cost for you to fix something yourself."478Views0likes0Comments
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