GKAbbott
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Re: Direct TV 18 in. Dish and H24 Receiver Capability
I found the easiest way for me to aim my slim ant was to use the audio function on the receiver. Any audio gets you close to the correct azimuth and elevation. Then fine tune for maximum signal. Most times, it took about 5 minutes to get it locked in. YMMV632Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Me Choose My Next Unit
If I were travelling/camping alone, I would get an A Liner. Easily towed and set up by one person. Leaves room in truck bed for ATV or motorcycle. I've had pop-ups, an A Liner, a 35 ft 5th wheel, and a couple of class C's. It all boils down to personal preference.200Views0likes0CommentsRe: Directv or Dish?
I no nothing about dish. We had Direct for years at home and used it in our camper for about 3 years. Every time I called in to get the local channels changed, I got the run around and spent a minimum of an hour on the phone. So, I wised up and got their maintenance plan. Then, instead of spending an hour on the phone, I just called in a maintenance request and a tech was dispatched to my campsite. The tech could get done in ten minutes what was taking me hours. The tech would aim my dish when he came out. Also, if anything didn't work or was damaged, the tech replaced it for no charge.426Views0likes0CommentsRe: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
Coachmen 21QB gets some love A couple of years ago, I started a thread about why manufacturers build such shoddy rv's. I hypothesized that it was to keep owners like me busy after the purchase. As it turns out, I was wrong. I need something to keep me busy even when nothing is falling apart due to poor workmanship. So, the mods begin. Our camper has an led striplight that runs along the awning frame. It's nice. But, we didn't have a proper amber porch light. A quick visit to everybody's favorite online retailer, and a light and rocker switch were on the way. Installation was easy as long as you don't mind removing numerous inside panels and running a snake through your camper to get the wiring where it needs to be. Oh yeah, don't forget to cut a hole to mount the additional switch. Since I was already running wire, I decided to add a 12v outlet to our outside compartment. It's connected to the house battery through a 5A fuse. Now I can power my satellite radio outside. Our low end unit doesn't have a radio in the house and the dash radio only played when the ignition switch was either in the accessory or run position. To remedy that short coming, I installed a DPST switch that allows the house batteries to power the in dash entertainment system. This required removing a few I interior trim pieces and the in dash unit. A little online research and I determined which two wires needed to be switchable. One of the wires is constant hot. The other switched through the ignition switch. The DPST switch and the necessary wire I had laying around, so no additional parts required. For those paying attention, I fused the "ignition sense" wire at 3A and the constant hot at 15A. Next, I added a swivel to the passenger seat. It's pretty straightforward. Remove the seat and pedestal. Remove the seat from the pedestal and reinstall it on the swivel pedestal. There's an electrical connection under the seat that some say must be disconnected when you swivel the seat. With a little forethought, the wiring can be rerouted to alleviate that problem. I ordered the swivel online. It was about $250. While I had the passenger seat removed, I decided to remove the driver's seat and floor liner/mat as well. I added poor man's sound deadener (peel and seal) throughout the entire floor area. This makes an enormous difference in noise levels in the cab. Peel and seal can be sourced from Lowe's and many other places. Read the reviews. Since I had most of the interior apart, I decided to remove the "B pillar " and headliner trim to have a look around. I found a few wires for the dome light that needed rerouting. Also, a few places that needed to be sealed against the elements. Removing the trim allowed access to the wiring for the rear speaker wiring. Did I mention, low end camper? No rear speakers installed from the factory. I took the opportunity to install a pair that I had from another project. Next..... How about a 300w solar system. I had some used panels hanging around, a Morningstar controller and plenty wire. Installed the controller near the 12v outlet mentioned earlier. Wired it to the house battery through a 30A fuse using #6 wire I had on hand. Wired the panels together using #8 that I had leftover from another job. I built a #6 pigtail connected to the Morningstar solar input. To connect he portable panels to the controller, I use a 25ft #6 extension cable. DONE!!!! Not quite. If you have solar, you might as well have an inverter. I happened to have an 1800w continous Tripplite that I wasn't using. So, mount the inverter in an appropriate place, run some #4 wire through a 100A fuse and voila, DC to AC. Those of you paying attention realize that 100A fuse will not support 1800 w. I plan to limit our use to 1200w or less. Is that it? Yes, for now. Merry Christmas to my camper On a side note. I didn't find any OSB or MDF in the construction of our unit. Lots of luan and 1X1 and staples.838Views0likes0CommentsRe: Living Space Sound System Options?
Powertour wrote: Anyone installed a sound system in their rig & if so how'd you tackle that project? Every trailer I've owned came with some sort of sound system for the living area.... they may have not been good, but there was something to work with (or outright replace). Not this Class-C, other than the in-dash radio with 2 WEAK speakers in the front doors there's nothing to pony off. If you want to continue to use the in dash unit, install a DPST switch to switch the ignition sense wire(probably red) along with the B+ wire(probably yellow) between the house battery and the chassis battery. This will require running wiring from the house battery to the switch. There are probably rear speaker wires run and dead ended at the base of the "B" pillar.1KViews0likes0Comments
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