Jack_Mayer
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Re: Ram tow ratings
It is always interesting to watch these discussions. Those that are towing in the 21K area can certainly use a LDT for that. I would be the last to say that an HDT is a requirement. People choose HDTs for a variety of reasons....mostly because they tow any trailer well, and are more comfortable doing so. And they are extremely flexible. Those items are not important to everyone, or can be met by other trucks. Clearly an HDT is not for everyone. However, if you are towing a 23+K 5er it is certainly something you should at least consider. It will do a far better job than a Ram 5500 (which is the only LDT that I would consider for that load range). If you have a 16K 5er, I'd say you clearly do not need an HDT.448Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tankless water heater
HERE is my test report on the Truma water heater. While this heater may not fit everyone's circumstance, it does perform pretty much like you would want it to. Would I use it for boondocking? Sure, that would be no issue. Would it use more water? Maybe, but not much (if any). Of course if you take a 15 minute shower then you WILL use more water.... If you have questions feel free to ask.462Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar panel weather-resistance w/ permanent flat mounting
You are asking for trouble leaving panels at 45* unattended all winter. Quality panels should not be affected by the weather. Period. Mounting them with a slight tilt should be all that is required, and that just helps rain wash dirt off. 2*-6* is all that is needed for a "wash cycle". And flat does not really hurt anything.312Views0likes0CommentsRe: Why switch to a Residential Refrig, thinking out loud !!
Most of the residential refrigerators use around 100A DC per 24/hrs. That is easily restored with solar, or a combination of solar and genset time. Granted, that is probably 90 more amps than a propane refrig uses, but it is still very viable for boondocking. Frankly, we boondock for as long as we like with a residential refrigerator. But we do have a large solar system and battery bank. For other reasons - not just to support the refrigerator.210Views0likes0CommentsRe: PWM vs MPPT Test Results
I'd also be interested in seeing a more "mainstream" controller used. Morningstar would be perfect.... The % increase is what I tell people to expect - 10-15% is typical. You can get more...but not usually. I've seen 25%, but rarely. The benefit of MPPT to me is not so much the "boost" but the ability to use high voltage grid tie panels that are typically cheaper per watt, and the ability to keep voltage drop under control more easily. The "boost" is a bonus, IMO. Nice test.... :)369Views0likes0CommentsRe: Proper way to Wire Solar in Parallel?
The 12 volt batteries are wired properly as shown by Roy. The reason is that you want to balance both the charge and discharge cycles across the storage capabilities of the batteries. In other words, you want to draw equally from all plates as well as then charge them equally. Physics defines the characteristics of how electricity flows...and the method shown will best balance the charge and discharge cycles across the battery bank. If you are really trying to balance the bank then you also need to pay attention to the size of the wiring and the length of each wire, but that is beyond the scope of this answer. Solar panels in parallel are not storing power or being charged. Thus they do not need to be wired in the same fashion. Simply attaching all positives together (typically in a distribution box) and all negatives together is correct. It is best to home-run them to the distribution box, and not to daisy chain them to each other. This mitigates wiring failures better, and more importantly, it keeps within the ratings of the junction boxes on the panels.248Views0likes0Comments
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