wmoses
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Re: Dual AC units
DwnSth wrote: We're shopping for new TT. We'll probably be upgrading to around 30ft rear living model. Is there any benefit to having main AC 15K with bedroom AC 13.5K? ... We do live in the deep south but we generally do not camp at all in the summer and if we did would most probably be plugged in so both units could be operating. See where I live in my sig. I have 1 x 15k unit and I camp in the summer, and there are times I'd like a second unit, but I am not going to part with the coin at this stage for those few times. There are strategies that can be used instead. If you don't summer camp then the one 15k unit is sufficient. If you must have 2 then the 13.5k is sufficient. Just my 2 cents. Since we all have different tolerances to heat there is no one universal answer.474Views0likes0CommentsRe: Two choices - Your thoughts?
popeyemth wrote: That's a no brainer. Buy the one your wife likes! Agree. This is not a problem that would be solved on this forum. You must like what you like and she likes what she likes - who cares what we like. If you are ambivalent in the least get the trailer she likes.458Views0likes0CommentsRe: I want to install a 12V digital volt meter
Fixed Sight Training wrote: I used a voltmeter that just plugged into the 12 v cigarette lighter. It was pretty accurate when checked with my multi meter. No drilling or wiring and I can pull it out and check other RVs or cars with it. X2. In my case the 12V outlet is in a cabinet so it is not even visible when I am not using it. I suspect that the OP want a more permanent factory-look. Ooops ... he said that in a later post, and for good reasons. :)562Views0likes0CommentsRe: Putting on Level Bubbles
kirkl wrote: I need to add the leveling bubbles to my trailer. Would you guys use the floor of the trailer or bumper to set level on to get left/right level and would I use the floor for front/back? whats the best way to get it level for the bubbles? Thanks Kirk, When adding bubble levels to your trailer, the trailer has to be at the best level that you can achieve, then you attach the bubbles so that they are at the zero / centre position - fore to aft and side to side. In my case I went to a parking lot and levelled the trailer side to side using my levelling blocks, and based on a carpenter's level placed inside on the floor above the axles, and across the width of the trailer. In my case the fridge is in a slide that is approximately in line with the axles so that works out, but if it were located somewhere else the modern fridge has the operating tolerance and should be able to handle any slight tilt that you get at the campground. I then took the carpenter's level and rotated it 90 degrees so that it was oriented longitudfinally then adjusted the level of the trailer using the tongue jack. That done I re-rotated it back to its original position and re-checked the side to side level. Satisfied with that I attached the 2 bubble levels to the front right (curbside) corner of the RV, one on the front wall and one on the side wall, ensuring that the bubbles are in the middle. That is it. Fine adjustments at the campsite is by levelling blocks and stabilizing jacks, in that order. One point to note - the longer the trailer the more it will rack (twist) so making this into a rocket science project is a waste of time. And if the fridge is in a slideout you have another variable that can affect level. That's my suggested answer to your question.575Views0likes0CommentsRe: Replacing oven question
robsouth wrote: As a contractor friend of mine told me once "Whatever you have the money to do is possible". If that is what you want and can afford, then do it. If not, then don't do it. It's just cabinetry work. Best answer so far. :) The OP needs to give a whole lot more information (make / model / year of trailer, what is the desired outcome, etc.) if he wants informative answers, and a picture would speak volumes.168Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hanging stuff in trailer question
kirkl wrote: How do you guys hang stuff in your trailer? like we want to hang a clock up and i have a key/hat rack. Ive used screws before but walls are pretty flimsy on trailers on some parts. What have you used besides screws? i will use screws for papertowel holder, TP holder and hand towel rack by bathroom sink. Trying to outfit our new camp trailer. Thanks for replys Kirk When hanging stuff, please be aware of at least 2 things - 1. Assume the object is at least 2x as heavy as its actual weight, to allow for dynamic loading, i.e. bounce loading as you are going down the road. 2. Mount items as flat as possible to the wall, i.e.imagine where the centre of gravity might be and ensure that is as close to the wall as possible. That way you minimize the pullout load on the attachment point. Best scenario is to attach with screws and hollow-wall anchors where possible - this is my preferred approach. However when creating holes in the wall you have to consider the permanency of the item, whether the item will be included in a potential sale down the road, etc. If it is a good candidate, there is no problem making holes. The second owner for my previous trailer was so happy to buy it with all the mods (and holes) I made. Using stick-on solutions should only be considered for light flat objects since the weak link is on the integrity of the laminar structure (u.e. will it pull the decorative wallpaper off the layer beneath?392Views0likes0CommentsRe: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT
Grandpere wrote: Just as a question, does your Weight Distribution hitch have anti-sway bars on it? If not, try installing a set and see what happens. Your truck may cary the weight, but the trailer will sway without the anti-sway bars. Very good point. Not all WDH have anti-staw built in and so far I have seen no details of the hitch. Could be the OP has the inexpensive round-bar type WDH which has no anti-sway and relies on separate friction bars to help control sway. If that is the case then, aside from assuring the 15% tongue weight first, the OP is well advised to change the WDH and get one with anti-sway built in. A popular, reasonably priced and effective alternative is the Equal-i-zer hitch. WDH alone does nothing to control sway.182Views0likes0CommentsRe: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT
Bob/Olallawa wrote: You said a 4 ft rack off the back. If that rack is loaded down, it will lighten up the tongue weight and could be the cause of the sway. Tires and tire pressure could be part of the problem. Don't get the Hensley until you figure out the sway problem. Agreed on both counts. When getting the rig weighed, he should have the rack loaded as if going camping. Also, regular non-towing pressures will lead to tire "squirm" which can be confused with sway - they are not the same - which is also unsettling. For my truck I have to have at least 40 psi before I have no squirm. I tow at 45 psi. I have no need for anything other than the standard P grade tires that came with the truck but when I replaced my factory tires (due to wear) I just gor XS passenger tires and they are better than stock and adequate for the job.182Views0likes0CommentsRe: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT
sgrizzle wrote: with a 3/4 ton truck, you can go a little "heavy" on the tongue...closer to 15%. yes, you need to hit the scales, loaded like you are going camping to see what you have. good luck! Agreed. As long as you have the payload capacity go for the higher percentage. Even over the 15% is absolutely fine - there is no upper limit. So far mine has always been just over 15% and I have no sway issues. Also, there is no need to buy any HA or PP WDH either. Just get the weights right and have a decent mid-grade WDH with anti-sway and you will be fine.324Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts
