All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 2013/2014 Voltage owners: has quality improved?Just picked up my 2014 3905 a couple days ago. Only problem so far is I can only fill the fresh water tank half way, not real sure what's going on. Looked for the vent and can't see it hanging anywhere, so I'm guessing its in the belly somewhere. Taking it out this weekend to try it out.Re: Feedback from current Dutchman Voltage RV owners Y-Guy wrote: I agree call, or email. If you call get the name/position of whoever you talk to. What I do know is my Winnebago has 30amp service/50 amp generator and energy management. With it I can run my dual A/C on 30 amp service, so if you had 3 with 50 amp service I think it can be done. Thanks guys, I'll try and touch base with Dutchmen. That would be awesome news cause my trailer is black and it's super hot around here, I'd like to think 3 A/c's running would do a good job of keeping it cool.Re: Feedback from current Dutchman Voltage RV ownersIf a new voltage has 3 a/c's it has the load management. I was told by two separate dealers you cannot run all 3 a/c's at once, but the load management allowed them to be cycled almost simultaneously. I could be wrong, I'm just the messenger.Re: Feedback from current Dutchman Voltage RV owners captjohn57 wrote: I have slide toppers on mine and it's garage kept but the only leaks I had was the fixed glass in the main slide and the emergency window in the garage. The aggravation is with my dealer, not Dutchmen. I really like mine and don't see any issues that I haven't seen with my other units. Still on the fence with the Schwintec slide outs but only minor troubles. Had it over 1 year and still like it. If you're looking at the big ones, I recommend the 3rd A/C! I ordered mine with the 3rd A/C but was told you can't run all three at the same time. So is there a real benefit?Re: Wheel Fell Off... It fell the hell off!I've seen it happen on a couple trailers, both flat deck gooseneck trailers. These where non preventable. One was a bearing failure, just came apart not due to heat or lack of lube. Another had the castle nut back loose and off it came. Both dexter axles, 7k and 10k oil bath. The moral of the story, sometimes things just fail.Re: Lippert Components powderman426 wrote: jmtandem wrote: If you were a manufacturer like Lippert and someone came to you with a design that you knew wouldn't work, wouldn't you be just as responsible for failure of said part? I know if it were me I wouldn't want to ruin my reputation by getting involved with it. Probably. But, I am not Lippert nor Heartland and to that end they did what they did. Maybe Lippert, that makes about 75 percent of all RV fifth wheel and travel trailer frames, did ask about the design. You and I don't know that. But at the end of the day they build what was ordered. But they did build it and thats good enough for me. When I go looking for a unit, it wont be one with Lippert crappy frames . Nor will it be one with China bomb tires or the Ford 6.0 engine. Enough bad things happen without going out and looking for trouble. JMO I'd buy a 6.0 over the 6.4 powerstroke any day of the week. Like clock work they will cost you a bunch of money around the 100K mark, if they make it.Re: Unhook to level Steve76eb wrote: M-1028 wrote: Macman83 wrote: I would be hesitant to do this. I have had the trailer raise the pin several inches above the hitch after I have disconnected it at a site that looked level. I would even venture to say that if I had left the truck hooked up, that it would have almost lifted it off the ground. That would be several thousand pounds of weight hanging on my air pin, and I would be afraid that there would be damage either to the pin, the hitch, or it would overload the front jacks. I have a Voltage 3905 with the electric jacks, and when it auto levels, it can raise the trailer quite a ways. Just my 2 cents worth. Like I mentioned, I never unhooked my previous toy hauler and never had a problem, but it was electric front jacks and the rest where manual. I would never put the trailer into a position to where it would have to pick up the hitch that high to level. The auto level is different that the old style electric front/manual rear jacks. You have control with that layout. When you hit the auto level button it does what it thinks it needs to and you stand back and watch. When I hit the auto level button the nose either takes off for the ground or the sky, depending on if I am parked in front or on the side of my house. If parked on the side of my house I have to use blocks with the front landing gear or I run out of stroke. No way the trailer would get up that high to be level if still attached to the hitch. If I park in front of my house the trailer has to have the nose lower the the hitch of my truck would allow it to go. Therefore the truck is in the way and needs to be moved clear in order to obtain a level position, The instructions even say to disconnect and pull away. You can use the manual mode in the auto level set up and that way you can tell the front and rear jacks what to do. Probably the best way to use it if you do not plan to disconnect. I understand, I'm guessing some systems are different from others because some say it's not a problem. Manual mode may be the route I take if it won't level with the truck hooked up. ThanksRe: Unhook to level d-mac1 wrote: You must not boondock. I don't have autolevel but on my last trip I had to have the nose way low to get level. No way a trailer could do that hooked to truck. And if it did your ramp would be super steep. Mine was steep enough as it was. How does the ramp get less steep with the nose down? Should make it steeper.Re: Unhook to level d-mac1 wrote: You must not boondock. I don't have autolevel but on my last trip I had to have the nose way low to get level. No way a trailer could do that hooked to truck. And if it did your ramp would be super steep. Mine was steep enough as it was. Actually all the time, been to KOH twice. Plus all of the races this year where no hook ups in rough terrain. I guess I'm lucky at finding places that are mostly level.Re: Unhook to level Macman83 wrote: I would be hesitant to do this. I have had the trailer raise the pin several inches above the hitch after I have disconnected it at a site that looked level. I would even venture to say that if I had left the truck hooked up, that it would have almost lifted it off the ground. That would be several thousand pounds of weight hanging on my air pin, and I would be afraid that there would be damage either to the pin, the hitch, or it would overload the front jacks. I have a Voltage 3905 with the electric jacks, and when it auto levels, it can raise the trailer quite a ways. Just my 2 cents worth. Like I mentioned, I never unhooked my previous toy hauler and never had a problem, but it was electric front jacks and the rest where manual. I would never put the trailer into a position to where it would have to pick up the hitch that high to level.
GroupsFifth Wheel Group Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts